questions about aftermarket aluminum outboard brackets: design, fabrication, for a Starcraft Chieftain

driscollies

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questions about aftermarket aluminum outboard brackets: design, fabrication, for a Starcraft Chieftain

Hello,

I am thinking about ditching my old I/O and putting on an aluminum outboard bracket, something like an Armstrong bracket or something. I was hoping I might be able to ask a few questions!

1) the big question seems to be, single or twin? I plan on mostly going in the lakes/bays and stuff, where I'm never more than probably a mile or two offshore. However, it would be nice to be able to go into the ocean just a little on calm days. A twin almost doubles the cost because of materials and whatnot. For the most part, I feel like twins are just for convenience: Put on two 75hp motors instead of one 150hp motor, and if one goes out, the other one is already on there and you can limp home. But is there any merit to doing something like.... put a 150hp on there, and 99% of the time it'll be fine. And for the one time it's not, IF that happens to be in the middle of the ocean, keep a spare 50hp or something belowdecks? Like, even build a special compartment in the bow? because, really, how often are you going to have to need it, PLUS, as a added bonus, the weight of a motor up there will help counterbalance the extra leverage of the bracket. Seems like the slim chance of ever needing that extra engine is worth the extra work that it might be to haul a dead 150hp up and mount a 50hp.

2) local builders: Good or bad? If I have a local fab shop that can cut hundreds off the price (local discount, no shipping, etc), is that a viable way to go about things? I assume strength is paramount here, but a good aluminum welder should be able to make an equally strong bracket. But shape.... I think that places like Armstrong definitely have the knowledge about subtleties that will make the boat perform much better. But is that really worth a few hundred? If the angle is just a little off, how much will I really notice? Of course, if it's about safety, that's a whole different animal. But I assume strength is the important component for safety, and she shape is more about performance. I'd happily risk losing a quarter mile per hour of top speed or a tiny bit in fuel economy to save a ton of money up front. Plus, I feel like, a lot of "mistakes" in angles and stuff can be made up via engine positioning, right?

3) shape: Speaking of shape, I have a few questions about the shape of these guys. First off, am I correct in assuming that they're, essentially, hollow boxes? And that they can be filled with flotation foam or something for buoyancy? I've seen some that go all the way down and match the hull shape coming off the back, essentially just becoming an extension of the hull. But most of them I see are basically just boxes bolted onto the back. Why the discrepancy? Is one shape better than the other? Is there a downside to just the box model? I assume that, on boats where the transom in the same for their I/O and outboard models, the goal is just to recreate the transom angle a little further back. Then again, some of them are exactly beam width. Am I correct in assuming that these are intended to be swim platforms, and all you really need is the box if you don't want a swim platform?

4) Speaking of further back: How far back should these go? Most of the ones I've seen are WIDE. Like, 2-3 feet wide (that is, they add 2-3 feet straight off the back). That seems like it's designed to accommodate the engine tilting up. Is this strictly necessary? For example, if I have an engine that doesn't tilt (no such thing, that I know of. Just asking a theoretical question to get a sense of whether the length is critical or not), would I need that much room? I feel like, from a pure functional standpoint, the bare minimum you would need would be enough to bolt the outboard on, and that's it. Beyond this, the bare minimum you'd need would be enough to tilt the engine back. Any other reason for a long bracket?

5) materials: Looks like the standard is 1/8" 5052 aluminum. Is that right?

6) other: Anything else I'm failing to consider? Thoughts on going local?

7) I'm just thinking.... in order to combine all of the "minimalist" elements of a number of brackets, the absolute bare-bones approach would be an aluminum bar that just sticks out about 6 inches from the transom (enough to bolt an outboard on). If you don't need to tilt your engine, and are fine with a single, this seems like it would work just fine.
However, for most people, this isn't enough. But if we use that as a starting point, and add features as necessary, we can get to the true minimalist bracket. So add length, so you can tilt your motor. Now you have an unsupported platform coming off the back. So add supports. How you have a platform with angle aluminum connecting the platform. I saw someone on iBoats did this, and the response was mixed, but a lot of it seemed to stem from his use of bolts to hold the supports in place. Would welding change things? I'm also thinking, he just had free-standing supports. What about keeping a lot of the functionality of the hollow square bracket, but making it into a triangle? So instead of doing the open-air supports like that guy had, doing a fully enclosed triangular prism bracket? It would still be hollow, and could be filled with foam, and wouldn't it be stronger anyways, as well as cutting out half the material?

8) Conclusion. The big thing I can't figure out is why these are so expensive. I'm wondering about the pros and cons of having a local guy fabricate one for me. My paramount concern is safety, but if I can get an equally-safe but slightly less efficient bracket for significantly cheaper, I would take a loss of performance. It's not like I'm a boat racer, I just want to get out to fish! I will also say, even doing a traditional square bracket would be much cheaper locally. It just wouldn't be from a "known" builder. Just wondering how terrible this is!

I would appreciate any and all feedback, from "you know nothing, let me tell you why you're the stupidest person who has ever lived" to "let's talk about this, here are my thoughts, we can engage in a conversation and maybe end up learning something cool". I guess the only feedback that's not useful is purely positive feedback! ha. I assume I'm missing a lot of knowledge here, and I'd like to learn everything I can :)

​Thank you in advance for your time
 

driscollies

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hi everyone,

sorry for bumping my own post but i've been talking to some local builders and they all seem very confident that they can build what I need, and it looks like this will save me in the neighborhood of $500. Are there any downsides to going this route?

Any other thoughts on singe vs twin or bracket shape?

I know there was a ton of information and stuff in there. mostly just trying to learn :)

thank you all
 

strokendiesel002

Petty Officer 1st Class
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hi! I have no experience in converting from an i/o to OB, I believe you're thinking about doing an "off-shore" bracket, but I have seen it done, sometimes people incorporating a swim deck into it. You may get more responses from more experienced and knowledgeable folks than myself if you include what type of boat you're thinking of doing this to, and including some pics, we all LOVE pics :)

Why do you want to convert to OB? Is this a glass boat or aluminum? Are you about to replace transom/ stringers, and the current i/o is a little long in the tooth?

I just saw a beautiful center console, 22-24' Parker maybe the other day on the interstate that had a 200 hp on an offshore braket. Awesome setup
 

BWR1953

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Don't know where you're located, but around here used outboard brackets show up on craigslist semi-frequently. Right now there's a dual setup for $600 and a single for $1000. I see them on there all the time.

As for twin outboards; yep, that's the way I'm going when I (eventually) get rolling on my Chieftain project. I don't want to be 20 miles out in the Gulf, trying to get back home in bad weather and fighting the tide with some 9.9 kicker putt-putting along. :nono:

In my research awhile back I saw a video of a twin outboard boat that was able to get on plane and run at a decent speed using just one of the engines. Me likey! :nod:
 

driscollies

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strokendiesel002: yep, an offshore bracket. I'm doing this on a starcraft chieftain! I want to convert to OB because mine has an IB, but it's totally dead and rusted to all heck and missing parts and basically useless. So, I figure... i want the deck space, and I'm used to OB anyways, so why not? I'll have this boat until I die, i may as well spend a little more on the setup I want. I'm about to completely rerivet, and gluvit, and replace the transom. Figured now is a good time to add the bracket.

@BWR1953: I am in the monterey area of California. I have been checking but haven't seen anything really. Plus, I assume I'd need an actual custom one, or are these pretty universal? When I was shopping around, the fancy places were asking for all these measurements that made it sound like it needs to be an exact, perfect, model-specific fit. Is that not the case?

about the twin engines, I guess I was saying... there's no reason you NEED two on there at a time, right? Considering a breakdown is relatively unlikely, is there anything to be said for just having a single, and then IF it happens to go out, just haul it off the bracket and onto the deck to make room on the bracket for the backup motor, and switch them? Like, if I'm only thinking of a 120 or 150hp or so, that's only a few hundred pounds. Nothing 2-3 people can't haul up onto the deck, and put a 50hp on there, just to get home? Seems odd to pay 4-500 extra for a twin, when most of the time it's just a motor rack, essentially. Or am I missing something critical (wouldn't surprise me! ha)


thanks for both of your responses so far!
 

strokendiesel002

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Excellent reason for your consideration! I believe that if you check the StarCraft section, you'll find guys that have done the conversion.

Is it custom? I imagine relatively, not all boats have the same transom angle, some brackets/ pods are for a single, double, with or without kicker, swim platform, etc

I'm in my early 30's, fairly decent shape and 6'3. No way my backup plan would be to unbolt, then lift it partially off, remove the steering cable, then try and put an OB on my deck. Even with 2 or 3 of my buddies, who are stronger than I. Having a kicker mount is a safer and easier plan.

Real advantage to 2 smaller twins? Wen you're not hauling the mail and just putting, less fuel is consumed. I prefer twin sticks when in a heavy wind and slop and need to proceed slowly, you can steer with engine thrust. Also, docking is way easier with twins. The real reason I would do it? TWINS Bazel, TWINS! Hehe
 

strokendiesel002

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FWIW, I think it'll look really cool... Hint hint BWR1953 cough cough especially with an integrated swim platform for "The Boy"
 

jbcurt00

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Excellent reason for your consideration! I believe that if you check the StarCraft section, you'll find guys that have done the conversion.

Is it custom? I imagine relatively, not all boats have the same transom angle, some brackets/ pods are for a single, double, with or without kicker, swim platform, etc

I'm in my early 30's, fairly decent shape and 6'3. No way my backup plan would be to unbolt, then lift it partially off, remove the steering cable, then try and put an OB on my deck. Even with 2 or 3 of my buddies, who are stronger than I. Having a kicker mount is a safer and easier plan.

Real advantage to 2 smaller twins? Wen you're not hauling the mail and just putting, less fuel is consumed. I prefer twin sticks when in a heavy wind and slop and need to proceed slowly, you can steer with engine thrust. Also, docking is way easier with twins. The real reason I would do it? TWINS Bazel, TWINS! Hehe

The bolded bit surely performed in less then calm, slack, smooth water conditions....

Agreed, not a good plan.....
 

driscollies

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Ha! All good points. I assumed that transom angle would be huge. I guess I should ask in the starcraft forums?I think my thought process for asking here was because many of the questions are general: i.e. should the bottom of the bracket be flat or mirror the hull shape? etc. But I'll try asking there, as well.

So then, can I ask... what's the market for single brackets? For the risk-takers, or for people who do the 'one-large and then a small little kicker' mindset, like if you're just in a smaller lake?

When thinking about a kicker, how small is too small? If I'm out in, say, the monterey bay... there's not much dangerous weather out there, like I'm never worried that I'll capsize or sink or anything (not to say it doesn't get rough?but rough isn't the norm). My goal is never really to "outrun" bad weather, just to get back home safely. I doubt a 2hp will get me back, especially if I'm fighting winds and tides. 5hp, same. probably not. But a 10hp? maybe. I'd be slow, and those are definitely small enough to fit on a non-custom kicker bracket (actually have a 9.9 on a bracket now. Never used to to get home, just use it for going real slow in the calm waters of the harbor and docking).

thanks again for all the input so far!
 

jbcurt00

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Please dont start mulriple topics about the same subject in mulriple forums.

If you think you'd get more (better?) help or posts in a different forum, PM any Mod and ask the topic to be moved.

Moved this topic to Resto forum.

Deleted the duplicate you started today.

Added SC Chieftain to the title.
 

driscollies

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OK, new tactic: Scrap the above questions, and I'm mostly curious about the pros and cons of having more of a "square bottomed bracket" vs a bracket that matches the hull shape and deadrise.

I feel like a flat bottomed bracket will provide more floatation, but a V bracket might slip through the water easier? Less drag and all?

thanks!!
 

driscollies

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Can you even put an an offshore bracket on a riveted hull?

I have been doing research on aluminum outboard brackets. I've been talking to people about having one made, and I am getting a lot of responses along the lines of, "you shouldn't put a bracket on a riveted hull".

One guy told me that the rivets would just pull apart due to the stress on the transom.

But then, I hear of people doing it to old starcrafts all the time. But why are these professionals (I assume they are professionals) telling me that it's such a bad idea?

any insights would be really appreciated,
thanks
 

jbcurt00

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Still about brackets, so new topic merged w existing bracket topic.

Do any of the pros you're asking own riveted hulls?

Lots of rivetted boats w brackets online, those that own and use them will be surprised to learn they cant use them :facepalm:

Do you own the Chieftain you want to put a bracket on?
 
Last edited:

GA_Boater

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Starcraft put brackets on Islanders from the factory, so I think your "pros" just don't want to do it.
 

driscollies

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@jbcurt00: Thanks for the merge (again). Yeah, I own the chieftain. That's the thing--I see brackets all the time on old starcrafts especially. I'm just trying to play it safe... I'm new to brackets and I'm trying to figure out where the 'safety' line is.

GA_Boater/BWR1953: Yeah. I guess I knew that, but forgot until you pointed it out. I was kind of under the impression that the brackets came on newer islanders... I was worried that maybe the newer ones were made better, or something?

I should also say, I've been asking for quotes on twin brackets. Is there something to be said for twins being too much for a riveted hull?

thanks
 

driscollies

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the other question I have:

A lot of places that offer brackets have different "ratings". like, up to 150hp or up to 200hp. How is this determined?

I feel like it'll end up being significantly cheaper for me to have a bracket fabricated locally, but I guess I don't quite understand how they reach these rating measurements. Is there a lot that goes into making them "strong" enough, or will a competent welder be able to weld in struts or something and just make a really strong "box" that'll be able to handle most engines? Like if I design it to be total overkill?

thanks
 

strokendiesel002

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probably a combination of things. mostly is probably so they can offer a variety of prices. I would hope that the 200hp rated has either thicker material/ more supports, but it may just be the size or the ability to offer hull matching capacities for insurance purposes. you'd have to as them I suppose for a clear answer on how they determine their ratings
 

jbcurt00

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Its called R and D.......

If I was a competent aluminum welder/fabricator I might consider a backyard/garage mechanic made bracket because I'd make it for myself, not for someone else.

I personally wouldn't want any of the pros you keep saying are telling you not to go bracket on a rivetted hull making a bracket for me. They either dont want the job or are unsure on how it NEEDS TO/SHOULD be made. Again because they havent done any RandD.

If you need to save the 500 you've claimed to be 'saved' having 1 made local, wait and watch for a deal on a bracket from 1 of the numerous companies making them, having saved and set aside enough cash to pay for it.

Then you could ask the makers about specs, single or twin OBs ratings.

Asking the same question, repeatedly, in numerous ways, doesnt change the correct answer.....

But RandD would.......

Stay w/in reasonable rating limits, twins or single OB wont matter on a rivetted hull or bracket. Unless you excede the ratings limits.

paralysis by analysis
 
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