Calling all glass guys . Where to cut my Proline ! ??

[proline31]

So I need to pull my belly tank, is it easier/necessary to take the hardtop off to remove ? It sways back and forth in heavy seas.. I think it's screwed into rotten wood.

To fix the transom and rear half of the stringers surrounding tank, where would you guys cut?
I've read to leave corners and around 6" to tab back onto...

Where would you guys cut !?
Boat is a 90 Proline 250 WA.

Also my boat deck is at Waterline along with drains .
Should I raise the new deck height or reroute to bilge and plug scuppers. Boat stays on trailer and used weekends.

how many inches freeboard is needed for legal charter boat use.

Lastly if I cut up the deck and the stringers are rotten under the cuddy cabin, then what !

 

[Scott Danforth]

Welcome aboard

First, start by reading link 14

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...r/295740-how-to-s-and-other-great-information

I will tell you that the easiest way always appears the hardest. unbolt everything - motor, hard top, remove everything. then uncap the boat

your going to be replacing the transom, stringers, bulkhead and floor. may as well make your life easier when you do the hard work, vs easier for only the easy work.

your deck is at the water line because your boat is full of rotten wood, wet foam etc and is carrying probably an extra 800# of water.

 

[proline31]

Okay thank you for the advice. 800# of wet wood and foam!!
Wow. I wish we had a scale in town accessible so I can see just how heavy it is!!

I don't necessarily have the space needed to remove the whole liner ....
I keep it parked in my driveway on the trailer.

So now maybe I should start looking for a space to rent to do the work . I know someone with a forklift and if I unbolted and unscrewed the rub rail and everything potentially I could rig some way to lift the liner.
I
But will the cuddy cabin come out at the same time ?

 

[proline31]

If I can't find the space needed to remove the liner in one piece, what should I do ? Cut into 4 pieces ? Bow stern port and starboard ?

 

[Scott Danforth]

did you pull the rub-rail?

 

[proline31]

did you pull the rub-rail?

yes I've taken the rub rail off..
I just don't have somewhere to set this giant liner while I work on it.
which is why I figured I should just cut in pieces.

 

[proline31]

No Title

 

[proline31]

No Title

hardtop comes off for easy tank removal
and I need to leave enough there for me to be able to grind back and make it flush.
I need a new deck stringers and transom....

 

[Scott Danforth]

yes I've taken the rub rail off..
I just don't have somewhere to set this giant liner while I work on it.
which is why I figured I should just cut in pieces.

I hung my cap and front insert from the rafters in the garage with ratchet straps above where the boat sat on the trailer when I wasnt working on it. When I wanted to work on the boat, I pulled it out of the garage

cutting it up may be making more work for you. only you can decide that.

 

[proline31]

So I think the deck can be cut in two pieces and used as template for new..
The transom however, is another story.
I think since the hatches are so close to the bottom of the liner, I should start my cut at that part and go parallel along the bottom. It will give me enough of a lip to be able to grind back and glass flush when new right??

im all ears guys....

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Following along.....I don't have any advice at the moment but very interested in this rebuild.

 

[proline31]

Crickets, chirp..

 

[kcassells]

Chirp

 

[Woodonglass]

Not familiar with this size and style of boat Not much I can say except glass is glass Methods are still the same Where to cut etc I'd not in my repertoire' I have seen a lot of these style boats having the transom done from the outside but... if you need to replace deck and stringers I'd remove them first and the do the transom from the inside

 

[proline31]

So as far as the new deck design goes I want to make those in floor fish boxes full length, the current hatch cover only allows access to half of it. Id have to grind or form ledge into the new deck.

I'd like hear any thoughts on going with poly tank vs a new aluminum one. My current deck has a cheap plastic circle covering the tank and I'm positive it leaks water.
What's the common route here ? Some more durable / well built style watertight hatch?
Or just a solid deck on top?

Also the weight vs cost ratio for using foam core stringers instead of marine ply?

I'm still struggling with where to cut my transom cap..
Those hatches for batteries and also the live well/ storage hatch on top the transom cap I want to save .
Ideally I would like more storage in deck but I'm afraid of creating leak points.

I like the idea of commercial style hatch covers with raised lips around the hatch so no deck water gets in..

 

[proline31]

#1-Gunna see if i can relocate my batteries to the cuddy to shift some weight and keep scuppers above water.

#2-Spoke with ken at propgods now looking for a 4 blade prop to swap out from a 3 blade mirage for my 275 verado.

#3 Im leaning towards cutting out the transom cap about 3" in from the sides

#4 As far as making full length hefty stringers with plywood for my boat, should i epoxy two pieces of plywood together or is one layer of plywood enough.

QUESTION 5 !!
about how many yards of 1708 AND HOW MANY YARDS OF csm or 12 oz/24oz (whatever its called) and polyester resin would you guys order for deck stringers and transom.
---In other words what word you order and how much of it for resin and fiberglass material ??
Shipping to Ak is a BIOTCH!

PS the salmon run is quickly approaching.



Thanks to anyone who comments or assists.
God bless and happy boating

 

[52FordF2]

I have a 19.5 foot Hammond runabout that I used about 40 gallons of poly resin, 25 to 35 yards of 1708, and CSM 50" wide rolls.
Start small with 15 to 20 gal resin. Since you have a bigger boat than mine. Can always order more.
I can also recall someone here who just cut the back part to the hatch opening for the transom an stringers. Leaving the front half hanging attached, with a few supports.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

#1-Gunna see if i can relocate my batteries to the cuddy to shift some weight and keep scuppers above water.

#2-Spoke with ken at propgods now looking for a 4 blade prop to swap out from a 3 blade mirage for my 275 verado.

#3 Im leaning towards cutting out the transom cap about 3" in from the sides

#4 As far as making full length hefty stringers with plywood for my boat, should i epoxy two pieces of plywood together or is one layer of plywood enough.

QUESTION 5 !!
about how many yards of 1708 AND HOW MANY YARDS OF csm or 12 oz/24oz (whatever its called) and polyester resin would you guys order for deck stringers and transom.
---In other words what word you order and how much of it for resin and fiberglass material ??
Shipping to Ak is a BIOTCH!

PS the salmon run is quickly approaching.



Thanks to anyone who comments or assists.
God bless and happy boating

Not sure the exact amount you'll need. I have a 20' open bow Chaparral. I used 20 yards 1708, 15 yards 1.5 oz CSM, 2 yards 24oz roving, 2 yards .08 oz CSM, and 17 gallons of resin thus far. I also used 20 quarts of cabosil, and 3.5 lbs of 1/4" strands. I'm not 100% done with glassing but getting close.

 

[proline31]

I have a 19.5 foot Hammond runabout that I used about 40 gallons of poly resin, 25 to 35 yards of 1708, and CSM 50" wide rolls.
Start small with 15 to 20 gal resin. Since you have a bigger boat than mine. Can always order more.
I can also recall someone here who just cut the back part to the hatch opening for the transom an stringers. Leaving the front half hanging attached, with a few supports.

Thank you very much.!
Do you think one layer of 3/4 inch ply for stringers would be enough if glassed properly .
Would you recommend making some sort of coffin box/ mako style lid for the new tank. essentially siliconed in place with a few screws that are sealed..
or some better version of a hatch on top the tank?
If you have a link to something built like a hoist of some kind or a frame type deal made from 2x4's that would be awesome.

 

[proline31]

Not sure the exact amount you'll need. I have a 20' open bow Chaparral. I used 20 yards 1708, 15 yards 1.5 oz CSM, 2 yards 24oz roving, 2 yards .08 oz CSM, and 17 gallons of resin thus far. I also used 20 quarts of cabosil, and 3.5 lbs of 1/4" strands. I'm not 100% done with glassing but getting close.

Thank you so very much for this info.

Did you happen to have any input on glassing over the new tank solid with some type of mako style coffin box/lid.. or a much better watertight deck hatch?