88 Sunray- Deck Transom and Stringers oh my!!

[Woodonglass]

The top cap won't fit properly if you apply too much PB to it. As long as you apply several coats of resin and a layer or two of CSM it'll be fine.

 

[Jbasham]

The top cap won't fit properly if you apply too much PB to it. As long as you apply several coats of resin and a layer or two of CSM it'll be fine.

So I shouldn't PB and tab the top?

If you look back at post #14 you can see the seam where the cap/hull meet and just how close it is to the top.

I already removed all the screws/rivets and ground it down. My plan was to glass over that seam with a layer of 1708 then Install the Transom and Fillet the top with PB and finish tabbing it over that seam up to the top.

It would suck if I ever needed to remove the cap because I'd have to cut the rear but I don't think I'll ever have too.

 

[Grub54891]

No Title

If you can do all work without removing the cap, go for it. I just could not see struggling to work under the helm area, so that's why I pulled the cap when the aft stringers were installed.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I think WOG was concerned that if you removed the cap then did the transom work, that you could potentially have a fitment issue when you reinstall the cap.
Why did you decide to permanently seal the seam between the cap and tub?

 

[Grub54891]

No Title

I think WOG was concerned that if you removed the cap then did the transom work, that you could potentially have a fitment issue when you reinstall the cap.

​Yes, if you remove the cap right away, and gut it, it looses it's ability to keep shape, unless you build a sturdy cradle to hold it all together before removing the cap. I re-did everything from the helm to the transom first, then took the cap off. Made it much easier to do the forward areas without losing the hull shape.

 

[Jbasham]

There's only about 1.5" above the new transom before the seam. So all Id be able to do without going over the seam would be a tiny filet and about 1 inch of tabbing...

 

[Jbasham]

If you can do all work without removing the cap, go for it. I just could not see struggling to work under the helm area, so that's why I pulled the cap when the aft stringers were installed.

Thanks Grub. I see your concern about trying to work under the helm, but it's not as bad as it looks. The stringers only go about 4 inches under where it might be a little tough but there is access from the sides. So I'm not removing the cap. BTW your build looks great!

 

[Grub54891]

No Title

Thanks Grub. I see your concern about trying to work under the helm, but it's not as bad as it looks. The stringers only go about 4 inches under where it might be a little tough but there is access from the sides. So I'm not removing the cap. BTW your build looks great!

​Thank's, it's slowly coming together, prepping for final primer on the top/inside, then on to the sides and bottom.

 

[pckeen]

This will be a great family boat when you get done.

 

[Jbasham]

This will be a great family boat when you get done.

Thanks it has been a great boat to us! That's why I feel it deserves to be fixed.

 

[Jbasham]

Good morning guys just wondering how my hull should be supported before I completely remove the stringers.

My trailer is a 4 bunk (2x4s) style. Right now I have blocks under the corners of the transom on top of the bunks. The only place they are still touching is about 12ft forward where the stringers stop and the bow is resting on the rubber v-block.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks

Will just 3 points of contact be sufficient?? It is now completely off the bunks, 1 block at each rear corner and 1 under the keel about 6 feet from the front. I removed the stringers on Sunday and you can really feel the hull flexing when im in there working.

 

[Grub54891]

I laid my keel on a 2x6 flat on the floor, blocked the aft corners, measured both sides and leveled it port to starboard. Then blocked the hull fwd and measured, leveled that also. From there, I added 2 sets of bunks from fwd to aft, most of the way down the hull. Then proceeded to cut it apart. It was pretty solid when walking around in there.

 

[Jbasham]

I laid my keel on a 2x6 flat on the floor, blocked the aft corners, measured both sides and leveled it port to starboard. Then blocked the hull fwd and measured, leveled that also. From there, I added 2 sets of bunks from fwd to aft, most of the way down the hull. Then proceeded to cut it apart. It was pretty solid when walking around in there.

Ive heard that the Hull should be in a relaxed state before glassing in new stringers. Is this true? When mine is sitting on the bunks its definitely not relaxed. Maybe because my hull is really thin?

 

[Grub54891]

No Title

My hull is thin also, I simply supported it before dismantling it. You do not want to have a hook, or bow in the hull. I ground off all the old glass down to clean glass, and layed in 2 layers of chopped to replace what I had to grind out. Then replaced the stringers.

 

[Jbasham]

My hull is thin also, I simply supported it before dismantling it. You do not want to have a hook, or bow in the hull. I ground off all the old glass down to clean glass, and layed in 2 layers of chopped to replace what I had to grind out. Then replaced the stringers.

Nice job! When mine was on the bunks you could see it bowing in underneath . Now off the bunks it looks flat just flexes a lot.

 

[Grub54891]

Nice job! When mine was on the bunks you could see it bowing in underneath . Now off the bunks it looks flat just flexes a lot.

​Yeah, I kept it blocked bow and stern, the bunks I added fwd to aft, just supported the hull for walking around. I'd double check the measurements, and level each day just to be sure nothing moved.

 

[Jbasham]

40ish hours later the "hard" part of grinding is done!


I just got 1 stringer glued together. After this is dry I'll do the other one. I hope this will work!

 

[Jbasham]

There's only about 1.5" above the new transom before the seam. So all Id be able to do without going over the seam would be a tiny filet and about 1 inch of tabbing...

Hey guys I really need some input on this. I'm almost ready to install the transom and my question wasn't fully answered.

Should I proceed with glassing over the seam or does the top of the transom not need to be tabbed in?

Thanks!

 

[Grub54891]

I would say, you can glass over the seam, There are not to many boats that ever have the cap removed, And I'd imagine nobody will ever take yours off in the future. The cap is pretty solid to the hull to begin with, with the screws holding the cap on and the rub rail screws it's on there pretty good. On mine I sealed the rub rail with life seal, so no water will splash up and get inside.
Mine is tabbed in below the rub rail area, I slightly re-designed it to be tabbed in that way.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I would definitely tab the top of the transom in. How you do it is up to you.