Products / how to refinish a Rusty engine

[Skidude17]

I have a 1969 225 cc Buick Dauntless engine out of my 19' Glasply that is extremely rusty. Due to other issues, I had to pull the engine anyway, so I want to knock off the rust and refinish it. I've already removed all of the wiring and exhaust manifold/risers.
I'm thinking about doing the following.
1. Plug the holes and pressure wash the bulk of the rust off
2. Hit any tough rust with a wire wheel
3. Use some kind of rust converter (...POR15...)
4. Repaint engine with Buick Red engine paint.

Does anybody have any recommendations or comments on the cleanup process or cleaning / restoration products I should use?

Thanks

 

[gm280]

Sounds like a plan to me. I have never used the POR15, but I have heard that stuff is great. So carry on. JMHO

 

[Woodonglass]

Por-15 is really good stuff but..do NOT get it on you. It will have to wear off. Wear Gloves and old clothes.

 

[ahmincha]

Por 15 is not a rust converter It is a coating that adheres to rust and I am not sure what temperature is can withstand. Do your research but as wog stated do not get it on you nothing will remove it from skin literally nothing don't ask how I know haha.
My recommendation would be any 2 part paint No primer if you dont have the tools to spray you could use rattle cans again no primer

 

[Skidude17]

I am not sure what temperature is can withstand. My recommendation would be any 2 part paint No primer if you dont have the tools to spray you could use rattle cans again no primer

Thanks for the feedback guys. The guy at the autobody supply store said it can withstand the high temps of an engine, but don't try to use it on any exhaust parts. I'm not familiar with two part paints ahmincha. Is there a brand that you have used successfully in the past. One thing that worries me about the POR15 is the same salesman said it will dry so hard that I need to be careful not to paint it on any bolt heads, or none of the bolts will be removable. I don't plan on rebuilding this engine, but I don't want to glue any of the manifold or other bolts in place, and I don't want to take the engine that far apart.

 

[Scott Danforth]

POR 15 used to be great. they changed the formula about 3 years ago when it ceased being restomotive laboratories and was obtained by absolute coatings. I wont use it any more since it is no longer the great product it was. I have had it peel off in sheets on more than one occasion and more than one batch on different substrates.

if you do use it, I wouldnt worry about the head bolts coming loose. even with the POR-15 of yesteryear, you could easily break the bolts loose. you may have had to hammer on the socket due to the paint build-up, however the bolts come loose

I would do like the old hot-rodders did when they pulled a flat-head from a field. I would wire brush like you intend to remove the loose rust and dirt, mix up some oxalic acid and spray down the exterior of the motor using a garden sprayer. spray it down a couple of times wire brushing in between, then rinse with water and the motor will come out looking nearly new. then use regular engine primer and paint.

 

[gm280]

Like I previously stated, I have never used POR-15. However, I have used lots and lots of two part primers, and I can't ever seeing those type primers coming off. That is if the metal is properly prepped before hand. Bare metal washed off so no oils, grease, loose particles are remaining. is properly prepped metal. And once you apply a good quality two part primer, then you can use catalyzed top coat paints for even more of a solid finish. JMHO

 

[DeepCMark58A]

I used por products in the past, switched to rust bullet.

 

[harleyman1975]

Degrease thoroughly with hot water, acid wash and scrub with wire brush then paint with POR-15 is my advice. Other choice would be epoxy primer and good quality enamel.

 

[ahmincha]

Engine blocks are very porous That is the reason primer is not recommended. Por 15 por standing for paint over rust bonds well to rust (not loose rust) and media blasted materials well sanded and grinded not so much.
If you have the ability to spry go to any automotive paint store and buy the cheapest single stage paint you can get. If not just get rattle cans and have at it. as with any paint job the details are in the prep