Need Gel Coat Repair Advice

Rookster

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Mar 12, 2017
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226
Hello Boaters (I'd say fellow-boaters but since I haven't actually hit the water yet in my very first powerboat...not counting the dingy with electric trolling motor...I don't feel that I deserve the title as yet!)

Just bought a used Bowrider with a few scratches in the gel coat. The gel coat by the way, still shines. Anyway, looking for a do-it-yourself method of patching up about 4 or 5 cosmetic spots (no chips, just scratches)...BUT - also want to get the gel colour matched properly. The scratches, like a spite, are in the big shiny burgundy part of the gelcoat, not the white. Any recommendations or references (e.g. YouTube videos) to products I can purchase and approaches I can take to get it fixed and blended in with (as close as possible), with the original?

This picture is not my boat, but the scratches you see on the colored gelcoat are all very similar to mine.

Advice?
 

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Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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Well Red Gelcoat is absolutely the hardest to color match. Even the pros have issues. You can get a Gelcoat Paste repair kit and start mixing it and even if you luck out and get it almost perfect...Next season it won't be. The new stuff will wear/fade at a much different rate than the Old stuff and you will notice it. IMHO i'd do the best you can and not worry about it. Make sure to wash the area with TSP and then Acetone before applying the paste.
 

Rookster

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Mar 12, 2017
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Yikes! Ok, thanks for saying it like it is - will do my best and if anything, perhaps cover with a decal.

Wonder how much cosmetic hull scratches affect resale value...
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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Cosmetics ARE an issue but small scratches and gouges do NOT affect the boats integrity. If you're fixing it for resale only then I'd for sure get a kit and do the best I could at matching it. Unless you're way off on the color, cosmetcially speaking, it would be better than leaving them exposed.
 

Vikesfan

Seaman
Joined
May 5, 2007
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I've had a lot of luck with the Spectrum Paste Repair Kits that are sold in the iboats.com store. I have a black Sea-doo RXP and most docks are not made for PWC so I get some occasional chips, even when using bumpers.

The gelcoat kits match the factory color really well and are pretty simple to use. I just tape off the damaged area and use a rough grit sandpaper to give the gelcoat a good even surface to attach. Then I clean out the area with acetone and allow to dry. After that, I spoon out an ounce of the gelcoat paste and use about 10 drops of the hardener and mix. (make sure to use in an open area or use good ventilation because the fumes can be pretty strong) After the gelcoat paste is mixed, I use a small putty knife to fill in the damaged area. The gelcoat may shrink a little so I like to build it up at least even with the tape so that it will cover the patched area. Next, I put a piece of plastic over the patch and use the putty knife to push the gelcoat into the patch and even it out. I'll let it dry this way overnight. The next day I will pull all of the tape and plastic off and it will usually have a pretty decent looking patch in the area. To make it look completely like new I will wet sand with progressively finer grits of sandpaper until it is completely even with the surrounding gelcoat. It may still look a little hazy so I will finish it off with a couple of coats of cleaner wax and buff it until it blends completely with the surrounding gelcoat. It may be harder to match perfectly with red, but with my black ski it looks perfect. My notoriously picky wife can't even find where the chips were. In the attached picture, I've done about 3 chip repairs in sections right above the registrations numbers. There are also about 2 chip repairs on the other side in the bottom picture from the Watercraft Journal article a couple of years ago. http://watercraftjournal.com/real-review-ride-power-usa-android-phone-charger/
 

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Rookster

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Mar 12, 2017
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Superb instructions! Thank you - will definitely give that a try...just nervous about messing up the original/surrounding gelcoat.
 

DeepBlue2010

Lieutenant
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Aug 19, 2010
Messages
1,304
VikesFan gave you good directions above. I would like to add few comments from my experience
  • Specifically in red and similar colors, even if the match is 100% at the moment the work is being done and shortly after, sooner or later you might notice a slight difference in color the seventy of which varies for each case. The primary reason is that the current gel shade is no longer the factory shade the was originally used which is also the one you bought in the kit. It faded and weathered over the years and became your very own shade. This is not to discourage you, it is just to level set your expectations so you don't blame yourself or think you did something wrong.
  • I clean with acetone BEFORE and after sanding to avoid spreading any contamination in the sanding scratches.
  • Don't go so rough on the initial sanding, 180 or 220 without applying any significant hand pressure should suffice. As always with sanding, let the sand paper do the work, not your biceps.
  • The key to not messing up the surrounding area is to make sure you are not applying the paste for perfection. In other words, don't apply it as you want to see it in the end. It MUST be higher than the surrounding surface so you need to build it up when you apply and don't even think how it looks right now. if it is high and looks like S**t, you are doing good.
  • Make a sanding block that has good proportionate dimensions to the repair area or extend the masking tape so that your sand paper if not sanding outside the repair area.
  • Take a note of your ambient temperature the day you will do the job. If temperature is too high, don't mix the MEKP catalyst on the hot side. In other words, don't use the highest number of drops given in the directions. If the directions say use 5 to 10 drops, go low, not high otherwise you will not have enough time to work with the paste. More is not better in this case. The gel will cure anyway and since you will leave it overnight anyways, no need to rush the cure.
  • When you apply the parchment paper (or wax paper or clear film printer sheet) over the repair, don't push down to squeeze or make it flush. The paste will shrink and you will end up either flush with the repair area or slightly under it. Just cover the repair area and tape all sides of the paper over the repair to prevent air from getting in. This is the main purpose of this step, just inhibit the air from finding its way in.
  • With 80-100 grit, rough sand the repair area until you start making scratches in the masking tape. Let the paper do the work not your mussels.
  • When you are obviously sanding the masking tape, this is the time to remove it and switch to wet sanding.
Good luck M8. Post some before and after pictures and keep us posted.
 
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Rookster

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Mar 12, 2017
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Ahoy! I seriously appreciate all that time you guys took to share all that detail...thank you, thank you, thank you! I don't have the boat yet but when I do, will definitely post the before and after pics!
 

DeepBlue2010

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Aug 19, 2010
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You are very welcome M8. I noticed you mentioned in your first post that the picture is not from your boat but it is "similar". It would be a good idea to actually post the actual damage on your own boat BEFORE you start the repair work. The reason I say that is that depends on the nature of your damage. You might need to add a step. Specifically, if you have a scratch that is very narrow, you will need to groove it it a little before you fill it. Gelcoat is very thick (and the paste is even thicker); it is not capable of filling hair or spider cracks. Again, this may or may not be applicable in your case, that is why pictures from your boat would help.
 

Rookster

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 12, 2017
Messages
226
You are very welcome M8. I noticed you mentioned in your first post that the picture is not from your boat but it is "similar". It would be a good idea to actually post the actual damage on your own boat BEFORE you start the repair work. The reason I say that is that depends on the nature of your damage. You might need to add a step. Specifically, if you have a scratch that is very narrow, you will need to groove it it a little before you fill it. Gelcoat is very thick (and the paste is even thicker); it is not capable of filling hair or spider cracks. Again, this may or may not be applicable in your case, that is why pictures from your boat would help.

Yes, there are a couple long and narrow scratches 3" x 1/16" and 4" x 1/8" ...but I don't have access to the boat to take those pictures yet - will post when I do. Great advice!
 
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