1976 Grady White Transom Rebuild

Slager

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Apr 30, 2014
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189
Go into your memessages and click compose new, then send a message to Bondo, or one of the other moderators.
 

demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
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Jan 2, 2015
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512
I ordered some neoprene rubber today for $17. KC showed me a picture in his post and this is what I decided to go with for placing under the tank. its size is 54"W x 12"L x .25"H. I wanted to know could I use this to place under the stringers to keep off them off the hull before OR after I put the PB down?

I watched this video, this guy used foam:

 
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demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
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Jan 2, 2015
Messages
512
It's almost impossible to replace your transom the way you describe cut out the inner skin and either cut the gunwhales or remove the entire top cap Really no othe way

The top cap is off, it was cut at the rod holders. This was the only was for me to replace my transom. Some others my have cut the outer skin off, but I did not feel comfortable doing that. So I remove the rear of the cap and splash well and began to chip the dis-bonded inner skin out with the wood and here we are.
 

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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Just need to make the stringer not have direct contact with hull. Even tabs of hout glue, foam etc do the job. The rubber will work.
 

demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
512
Just need to make the stringer not have direct contact with hull. Even tabs of hout glue, foam etc do the job. The rubber will work.

I will make sure or try my best to ensure that they are not touching. Thats why I wanted to know if this was ok, it will make me feel better to know for sure its not.
 

demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
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Jan 2, 2015
Messages
512
I did a little bit of cutting and test fitting again with the stringer. I will today resin the stringer and place these two in today. I drilled holes in the cabin to see how deep I need to cut with the circle saw to finish the keel stringer. the wood that sets under the cabin which is glued to the bottom of the cabin is rotten. I assume this wood barely touches the keel stringer or it does, not sure. It is not much wood there so I will ask. Can I instead of placing wood back under the cabin floor where the keel stringer is, pour foam in that small area once the repair is done and that wood is removed? I keep thinking some how water may get trapped there if I place the foam there. The original way they just had wood and an open area for water to flow under the cabin as you can see in some of the pictures of the cabin area.

Also I removed the covering on the gunwale to reveal what I expected a nasty color that will get painted. i dont like the brown color in this boat as this was my reason to remove it. Ii will grind that brown out of the cabin top one day also and repaint it maybe a grey color. Thats later let me know.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9...GtiUzI1VWJwN00
 
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demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
512
Slager
you know I have been thinking about the joints and I think if I use 2 joints my tank like you said my not fit in the space. The tank is 26" wide and the space is about 27.85 without touching stringer to stringer 28" exact. The other 2 would be fine.
 

demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
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Jan 2, 2015
Messages
512
Now here is my other problem. The place where my boat is I have been using there electricity with their permission. When I ask to use I show them what tools I will be using and told them my shop vac. The place has a home on the land, and a car shop in the back where campers and cars are parked around. I speak friendly to the guys there, hold conversations being nice to use the electric. I filled the trash can with foam and gave them some money encase they needed an extra dump.

There is another guy that uses electric for his motor home. He plugs in on friday and removes late sunday and is never there working on a thing. They told the land owner whom I pay storage fee and they pay car shop fee to be on land, that the E bill went up 50. The land owner asked if I could give 25 and he will ask the other to do the same. I know I did not use 25 in electric. I am only working on the boat 3 hours about every other day and thats not using electric the whole time. My inverter is only 1000watts I cant use my shop vac and circle saw too many amps. Ii have a 100 wat solar panel to keep battery charged. The land owner lives in FL in the winter and is up here in the summer. Im thinking the E bill went up also because we had these hot days and your up here (landowner) using E to for your house and the other guy doing who knows what in that motor home. My plan was to offer them some money, crabs, or fish when the project was completed. How would you guys handle this? I may buy a bigger inverter. This place is covenant 15-20 min from the house 75/mo.
Ship yard dry storage with electric all you can use 75/mo but 45 to hour away.
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,600
I opened the floor in my cabin like this and the wood was mud inside the glass.


I won't be foaming that area becaiuse my anchor storage water drains from here to bilge.
[/URL

This also allowed me to glass the entire area prior to setting the keel. I save the floor cut out for a template and saved the glass surface which I re used. Also I will put an access hatch to let me check out the area every now and then.
[URL=http://s1373.photobucket.com/user/kcassellsplmb/media/PICT0201_zps49a3921c.jpg.html]


My butt joints.....BOTH SIDES!


That brown on the gunnel sides is just glue or resin the hold the fabric on. What is inside the void of the gunnels?
 

demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
512
I opened the floor in my cabin like this and the wood was mud inside the glass.


I won't be foaming that area becaiuse my anchor storage water drains from here to bilge.

This also allowed me to glass the entire area prior to setting the keel. I save the floor cut out for a template and saved the glass surface which I re used. Also I will put an access hatch to let me check out the area every now and then.

My butt joints.....BOTH SIDES!


That brown on the gunnel sides is just glue or resin the hold the fabric on. What is inside the void of the gunnels?


KC that is the exact cut I will need to make although I might go the entire floor to replace the wood but would rather not. i didnt see in your project. My storage box opens in the front so I do not have to bend they way you did but I will have to grid laying down hehe...:grumpy: Did you have wood under the glass in the floor? I assume you did since you said you had a cut out as a template. I know for a fact that the wood under is rotten. When I put my finger under I can chip a piece a way. What should I replace the wood with if any? If I make a small cut like yours I will not be able to get the wood back under the cabin floor.

The inside of the gunwale is foam filled.
 
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kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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Yes I had wood under the floor, Plywood sole then under that the wood keel/stringer. I was able to slide the entire pc. from behind the sole/captains chair as you see from the pics as being open. That also allowed me to fir in new stringers. you can see the access in the 3rd pic.
 

demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
512
0620171021.jpg 0620170930_HDR.jpg Here is Poly. Got the transom resin and glued into place yesterday. I was a little concerned about mixing and making PB but everything seems simple. I didnt take any pictures because I got really interested using this resin. i spent 9 hours working yesterday. The transom has be glued all around the edges and I filled the space at the bottom with PB and smoothed it to line up with the transom line. I did add one strip of 1708 to the drain hole and bilge area, Ii was not sure if it would use less resin if I use the PB to fill that space and then add some cloth.
 

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demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
512
Got all 4 stringers bedded to the hull yesterday. I did the port side middle first. I just place the PB on the hull and spread it out with bondo spreader.I clamped the end where the butt joint will go and then place rubber under every foot. I notice I really did not need the rubber because the stringer sat off the hull except at the transom and where the butt joint will be. I seem to get easier and easier as I continued. I was going to just do the 2 middle and went and decided to do the 4. I will install the butt joints and do the tabbing today. Would it be better to cut the butt joint ends at an angle with the skill saw?
 

demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
512
kcassells

you ever use 1708 bix? i ran into a problem when doing the transom. The stitch came out while I was rolling out bubbles with my aluminum roller and the SOB ran all the way down and created problems. it got caught in the roller. I had to grind then sand out the bubbles. I think it may have been the way it was cut with the scissors. I have some meat scissors to cut the cloth now.
 

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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LOL... That happens to everyone. Keep a pair of scissors or knife around and catch it right away. Since it happened and you are aware of it...lol it doesn't happen as often.
 

demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
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Jan 2, 2015
Messages
512
Ok I am trying to figure out the best way to make this coffin for the gas tank. Since there was not one under the deck how to make the coffin? Do I use plywood? Do I make a mold of the tank bottom (The way I think I will go)? Could the stringers be used as sides for the coffin or do I need a separate layer of wood or glass? I know it would be easier if a tank was under the deck, i would have something to go by but I do not.

I created this coffin from plywood and I think would add too much weight after i waterproof. I was thinking of buying some PVA, and Gelcoat and make the coffin from the inside of this box using one layer of 1708. This box is made from 23/32 ply on the bottom and the sides and bulkhead are 15/32. coffin.jpg
 
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