1976 Grady White Transom Rebuild

demarko210

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kcassells

Now I not going to get rid of all the wood, if it is not wet Ill leave it and coat it. I have gone around and tap the stringers and the sound solid except the middle one. I will remove the foam to see how the others are. if i tap them with my wrench and they sound solid, i am not going to remove because it will be difficult and to me no need. I will be going to do that floor piece under the cabin which is a small piece in my opinion.

yesterday i went back working on the transom. Im ready to prep it and measure for the new wood. I got all the wood out down to the glass. I was thinking about doing something I have no business of doing. after seeing the boat with that portion of the cap off, I really like the space and want to do without that big splash well. was thinking about a full transom with a pod or just adding a pod and keep the knotch transom. I dont know if i would need to make the center part of the transom an extra .50 thick. Any advise on this?

Oh what type of wood do i buy for the stringers? Is it that pressure treated deckwood at home depot?
 

kcassells

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Tried to post this morning Site was having issues;
No pressure treated, exterior grade plywoods only. ACx, bcx etc for price points. Marine grades, aruca and others are available too.
 

demarko210

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It has been like that lately when looking through this website. They need to hire me as a contractor to fix these issues and improve this website. So the same 4x8 wood that I will use for the transom the acx 23/32 at home depot for 29.95. I ordered my 24yrd 1708 biax, 10 csm, and some resin yesterday. Only got 5 gallons poly and just checking the order and it should be here today fast.
I will reuse the 22.5 gallon tank that i have but i will still place it under the floor. That will be my only change besides adding ice box and livewell, im trying to be on the bay sometime in july. After working on the fiberglass, i have to hop over to the other forum about engine repair. I still need to get this inline 6 running. Had trouble with it last year trying to keep it running when i shift into gear. it would cut off. I could not leave the dock. This was after i did a carb rebuild. Ran ok in neutral but as soon as i shift into reverse or forward blame it out. guys keep telling me i have to get it xxxrpm in forward gear, i told them how the hell can i get it in forward gear if its not running? I told them I know that but what can i do to keep it running when i put it in forward. This time I will open my air screws to 2.5 turns instead of 1.5 turn like the manual and everyone keeps telling me.
 
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demarko210

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kcassells

Or could I use that other wood i saw a home depot the .75'' x 12" x 12' instead of buying a third 4 x 8 sheet of plywood?
 

demarko210

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Here is a issue i have. I have water in this area both sides and I wanted to ask how to prevent the water from building up in this area? Add a drain hole through the new stringer on each side? The foam did not prevent the water from getting in and it could not get out. the stringers are water logged here so i will follow the rotten stringer till i find good wood and build from there. I wanted to tie the stringers to the transom when i install. Let me know thanks.

0412171506a_HDR.jpg
 

demarko210

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This is what I was looking for and was going to ask how to do since I was not removing all stringers. The best way to bond the new core stringer to the old good section of the stringer.
ST07.jpg
 

kcassells

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Yes youcan and should have drainage on the stringers like you mentioned above. Notch the corner off the stringer end that is tying onto the transom. Do this on all of them and create a flow path for the water to make it to the bilge.
-Not sure on the stringer repair shown. Looks like it could work.
Check out @Wog's wood on glass comments. Under Mike's signature are some great repair/install stringers and glassing methods.
 

demarko210

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Removed the foam to a point were it was dry so I can get a better evaluation of what stringers need replace
 

demarko210

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the foam seems to be the issue. the foam hold water which sets in the stringer and makes the laminate disbond
 

demarko210

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I have cut templates of the stringers to the point where I will be replacing sections that are bad. I also cut transom template and grind the transom and removed the wood from the middle stringer all the way to the hull. My hull has about a 1 inch crease where this stringers was bedded. not sure if this is the same for all boats. I go my polyester resin the Tuesday and it is some smelly stuff. So i am trying to get this out of the house ASAP. I also got me a used 41 gallon tank for the belly.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B95_CdtAK79BVGtiUzI1VWJwN00
 
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demarko210

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I removed the bad portions of the stringers and grind down the old tabbing with 50grith. I will go over the hull with another 50grit covering the new tabbing area. I cut all the stringer at the same point because I will place some a bulkhead at the point where i cut the stringers all the way across the hull to help support joints and the for the area for the gas tank. I have been looking at different ways of attaching the new joints (bulkhead and new stringers). Any help would be great. I took pictures of the wood in the stringers. Please let me know how this looks to you. Looks like good wood to me except that starboard stringer. Ii may have to go up further with that one. The middle stringer that went down the middle, what should I do there if I am putting a tank there? should i make a short stringer that run under that tank coffin? the new pictures are the last ones. The picture the stringers wood goes from port to starboard. Another question. once I cut the floor out of the cabin and replace that keel stringer that goes to the front, can i fill that area under the cabin with foam or i shoulnt?

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9...GtiUzI1VWJwN00
 
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kcassells

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Butt joint works just fine. Use adhesive, glue, screws if you want.
images

Wood on both sides. Try to stagger the joint on multiple stringers.
If the wood is questionable, not sure from the pic now is the time to remove it.
As far a the stringer under the tank floor you will need to scallop it down but make it in 1 pc.
 

demarko210

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Was not sure if I could use a butt joint. Seems to be the easiest way to do instead of scarf joint. thanks man!
 

kcassells

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I knew I forgot something....I believe you want @ 6" either side of center joint and you do the butt on both sides. Fillet the ends to glass.
 

demarko210

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6" inches pass the joint on each side correct?No need for stainless steel screws on the butts? The bulkhead, since I only had one in the boat (cabin) and will be places more, should the wood of the bulk head be 1" width like the stringers?
 
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