1963 Starcraft Jet restoration

Watermann

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That does not look to me like the correct insert for the SC RR. I ordered mine on a Monday and got it on Thursday from CA to WA.

Wefco Profile: 0101 G and it's rubber not vinyl $2.50 a foot.

http://www.wefcorubber.com/PDF/marin...%20Inserts.pdf

IMAG2723.jpg
 
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Coach Dave

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 3, 2014
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I've found this insert on several websites and the dimensions all appear to be correct - though it appears to be less solid and rigid than the original. Comes in black at $49/50' roll and white at $59/50' roll. I'd really like to get white for the gunnels as original. If you got the Wefco that quick, I'll probably just go with that since it is known to fit.
 

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Watermann

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Yeah Dave that cheap thin stuff may go in the channel but I would bet it won't stay there when it gets hot out or is impacted.
 

Coach Dave

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I'm baaaaaack again.......I got sick for a week, then sub 30 temps and snow for over a week here in NE Ohio. My supplies, hardware, and gear I ordered all arrived during that time though, so I was ready to go when the weather broke. Anyway, as you'll see I got the inside of her completely stripped out. I am now professionally certified in rivet removal!:lol: That, and the owner before me never heard of stainless steel on most of the other fasteners. The 1/2" plywood floor was completely water logged and weighed a ton. I got the transom pulled out after removing what seemed like a never ending amount of through transom bolts, screws, and other fittings. The sides of the transom were completely crumbling away. You'll see in the picture of the bow, when I removed the plywood wedge at the bottom front - That styrofoam is ALL of the flotation I found in the entire boat. I'll be adding a ton more than that. BUT........I'm kinda liking this open look. I may just put a fishing platform with seat up in the bow now. I could cut out a middle section of my windshield to make it a walk-through. Gonna ponder on that. IMG_20170326_120404_zpsfcr5suna.jpg IMG_20170326_171328_zpskigxmfqi.jpg IMG_20170326_171244_zpsme6ff7hw.jpg IMG_20170326_171411_zpseziddd6y.jpg
 

Watermann

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There you go, nice to have that messy chore behind you. :thumb:
 

Coach Dave

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Apr 3, 2014
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Got out to the boat Sunday with some nicer weather. I got her flipped over and started stripping the bottom. I thought I could get the whole bottom stripped, but it was much more time consuming than I thought. The original factory paint really put up a fight against the stripper - it's on there pretty solid. As you can see, I got half the bottom stripped and wire wheeled all rivets and seams down to clean aluminum. I'm gonna Gluvit every seam and rivet below the waterline on the outside, then prime and paint. I've decided to go with Tractor Supply's Implement and Tractor paint with their catalyst mixed in. I've heard guys have great luck with that. Gonna roll it on good and thick after self etching primer. With the freeboards, I'm gonna sand smooth, prime where I patch up some holes, spray paint, and then clear coat after any graphics/striping I decide on. The paint on the freeboards is in pretty good shape and all that stripping seems a bit unnecessary, especially since I won't be using Gluvit on every rivet and seam above the waterline. Before and after pic of stripping below:
 

Watermann

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Why have you decided to use gluvit on the exterior? If you check, 100% of the rebuilds the gluvit is used inside the hull for a number of reasons. Not UV stable, impact damage and it will run all over the place.
 

Coach Dave

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That's why I post what I plan on doing - to get reactions positive or negative. This is my 1st restoration/rebuild. I've never used Gluvit before - I was going to do both inside & outside for overkill - I'm kinda that mentality (or mental:eek:). If it is that runny, I can see the point of not doing the outside, so I'll skip that. But...........why not roll the bottom? I figure I can put it on thicker (using muliple coats - not 1 thick one) and faster, and no one's gonna see the bottom any ways. Is there a benefit to spraying the bottom vs. rolling? I am spraying everything above the waterline. Oh.......1 more thing.......should I clearcoat the bottom? or is that just a waste of time, energy, and material?
 

ezmobee

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Don't use Gluvit on the outside. I haven't been real impressed with it on my boat adhesion-wise. I'm pretty sure it did flow down into all the nooks crannies and holes it needed to but a lot of the stuff on the outer surface has flaked. No big deal on the inside but would trash your exterior paint job. And that's not really what it's meant for anyway. You can certainly roll the paint. I just think jb meant don't try to do it real thick or you'll have a mess. As many light coats a needed. I wouldn't clear anything on a boat. Hard to touch up when you bang it into stuff and I think it's more prone to flexing and cracking than on a car. Don't over think it. Spray on a light dusting of etching primer (full coverage not required with that) and roll on the tractor paint with hardener. Keep some around for tough ups when they are needed (and they will). One of the best things about an aluminum boat is being able to bump it into stuff without much worry :)
 

Coach Dave

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image_262240.jpg I finally got the bottom down to clean bare aluminum. Stripper, then wire wheeled rivets and seams, then a 3M stripping wheel finished her off. I think it's beautiful just the way it is, and almost a shame to paint it! Can you just clearcoat the bare aluminum? I'd have to sand/buff out the scratches from the 3M pad with 220 sandpaper or something, but it'd look pretty cool. I am prepared to prime and paint white though. It was dark out when I finished last night, so the picture doesn't do it justice. I also ordered new white OEM rub rail I found at Great Lakes Skipper. EXACT same stuff as Wefco, but like a dollar cheaper per foot, and they had it in stock. Wefco told me two weeks. Gonna be in the 70s Sunday, so I plan on getting bottom done and boat flipped back over next week after paint cures a few days.
 

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Watermann

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Looking good coach, yeah I left the bottom of my SS bare AL. I would not clear coat it though, what a mess that would turn out to be and nobody will ever see it again after it's on the trailer.
 

Coach Dave

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Thanks man. Heading back out to her today at 5:00 to at least get her primed and the freeboards sanded smooth. When stripping the bottom, I found that the areas of the bow that stay above water were MUCH more difficult to strip. So I'm just gonna sand the freeboards til smooth with increasingly finer grits with my random orbiter. And I'm probably just gonna go ahead and paint the bottom. I got my self etch primer, tractor paint, reducer, and hardener. Gonna roll & roll her, let her sit til Wednesday, and flip her over to start the fun stuff inside.
 

Coach Dave

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Gathered all my necessary supplies to go out to boat and get at least 1st finish coat on the bottom of the boat. Temp gonna hit 70 finally for the paint work. IMG_20170409_151739_zpso1dqxudk.jpg IMG_20170409_151804%201_zpscnz3c3uz.jpg IMG_20170409_151817_zpsmvwxgdmt.jpg IMG_20170409_151845_zpskuayhisx.jpg IMG_20170409_152055_zpsh1ddjyan.jpg IMG_20170409_152153_zpskqf53ign.jpg
 

Coach Dave

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  1. Started by sanding the bare aluminum down to 220 grit and wire wheeling any left over specks of paint. She's smoooooooooooth. IMG_20170409_125746_zpsijtsequx.jpg
  2. Wiped her down with paint thinner 'til no residue came off with microfiber cloths.
  3. Sprayed one light misting of self etching primer followed by 2nd misting to cover spots I missed. IMG_20170409_125809_zpsxqlbnizi.jpg
  4. Sprayed 1st coat of sandable primer IMG_20170409_131401_zpspir15iqv.jpg
  5. Wet sanded with 320 grit once 1st coat was dry per directions on can.
  6. 1st wet sanding exposed the tops of the rivets to bare metal, so I spotted those with self etching primer again- lesson learned. IMG_20170409_150037_zps5zpyagka.jpg
  7. Sprayed 2nd coat of sandable primer, wet sanded with 320 again avoiding rivets this time, and she is even smoother now and ready for top coat! Before spraying and sanding 2nd coat of sandable primer, I mixed my finish coat paint using woodonglass's formula so it could cook. IMG_20170409_160627_zpswk3uehsv.jpg
  8. Using the roll and roll method, I put down the 1st finish coat. I used a 4" foam roller that matched the width of the Starcraft's lapstrakes IMG_20170409_171445_zpsdvd3uwbt.jpg
  9. After getting the finish coat down, I used my saw horses with 2X4s to lift her above the trailer. I can now pull the trailer out to work on it while paint cures. Got the front end of the trailer dismantled a bit for stripping before packing up after 8 hours - I'm whooped and my back is SCREAMING. IMG_20170409_190747_zps4yfukimy.jpg
I plan on going out after work Tuesday night and lay down 2nd coat of top coat. Should I wet sand 1st coat of top coat before 2nd coat?

All in all, a VERY productive day, and the weather cooperated FINALLY. I didn't want to paint when it was in the 50s. I had to get it all done while I had the temperatures needed. I used the JB Weld WaterWeld on a roughly 1/8" hole in the keel and 2 more very small screw holes back by the transom. I'm sure I'll be using it again - seems like really good stuff and you simply pinch off what you need and work it with your fingers til mixed. I used the Rustoleum 2n1 Filler Sandable primer for 2 reasons: I could wet sand and topcoat once it was dry in about 15 min. per the back of the can, & it helped smooth out some of the deeper scratches on the bottom. If I had tried to sand those smooth, I'd have been down to tin foil for a bottom! I didn't want to do the freeboards yet 'cause I'll be climbing in & out of her while building out the inside and don't want my work to get damaged. The sides are mostly sanded down though.

This thing is gonna look GREAT if I ever capsize!

Some may say I went a little anal and overboard on the bottom prep and paint (myself included), but it was a good dry run for when I paint what folks will see when she's in the water. And prep was about all I could do with the weather we've had here in NE Ohio - Snow last Monday! That, and it's good to go for awhile, I don't have to worry about it, and it will be much easier to simply re-coat it if/when needed since it was done correctly the 1st time.

2nd coating on Tuesday will give the first coat a good 2 days to cure, and I can have her flipped over to start the inside for this weekend. Stay tuned.
 

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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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This thing is gonna look GREAT if I ever capsize!

Or if you run down a swimmer he'll appreciate the hard work you put in :lol:

I don't sand anything except the bare AL before starting the primer. I shoot all 4 in less than 24 hours and walk away. I hate sanding... :mad-new: so it's best to ask another sander type about sanding. ;)
 

Coach Dave

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Well, I got the 2nd coat of finish paint on the bottom Tue. after work. I really had to draaaaaaaaag my arse out there to do it. My body is not too fond of the work I'm doing, and my back especially is revolting. I ended up sanding first coat dry with 320 grit, wiped it down with paint thinner, wiped it dry with a clean microfiber cloth, and rolled and rolled it again with same formula of tractor paint, hardener, and reducer. It was dark when I finished - so no pics. Will post some soon. I'm hoping it doesn't need a 3rd coat - the white doesn't seem to be covering all that well. I gotta start on the trailer - I REALLY AM NOT LOOKING FORWARD TO THAT - as it has at least 4 poorly applied no prep work gobbed on paint jobs on it. But it needs done, and I can't flip the boat over to work on all the fun stuff 'til it is done. I gotta couple questions on the trailer. Be gentle, remember this is my 1st boat project:
  • New bunks -Is carpet best? Or I've heard guys use vinyl gutter mounted upside down on 2X4's. Opinions?
  • 2" coupler mounted on 2" channel now. It's a light boat. Only new couplers I can find for 2" channel take 1 7/8" ball. 1 7/8" ball adequate?
Thanks in advance. I'll be out at boat all weekend, as I have this weekend off and the boy's with his mom this Easter. Plenty of pics coming. Happy Easter everyone.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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All I've used on bunks is outdoor carpet. You're trailer tongue is only 2"? Most are 3", that's an odd ball, at least to me anyway. I really don't think an 1/8th inch less would be a problem.
 
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