Stringers

samtech

Seaman Apprentice
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Aug 24, 2013
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45
Hello guys. I have removed one stringer from bass boat. After removing decayed wood, nothing but "powder" so to speak, I was able to leave the "sides" of previous fiberglass in tact, and at the original height of stringer. Should I cut down the "sides" of the fiberglass to the surface of deck or leave a little height so the new stringer will have a "channe"l to sit in? Im guessing that it will be difficult to appy PB in channel and incase new stringer if I leave them where they are. Did I just answer my question? Appreciate any and all information.
 

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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Jul 23, 2011
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you need to cut everything out, grind down to good fiberglass everywhere, and retab everywhere. you can attempt to leave what you did, however it wont work and the amount of grinding you would have to do to get the new glass to stick to what you left is about 3 times the work as simply cutting flush with the hull and grinding the hull for new stringers

Read link 14 here http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...r/295740-how-to-s-and-other-great-information

links 2, 3, 4a and 4b will help after that

here is a good sketch of how the stringers get fab'd, and tab'd http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...1961-lonestar-flamingo-splashed-w-pics/page42
 

samtech

Seaman Apprentice
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Aug 24, 2013
Messages
45
Have another question. Having measuring the length of my stringers. 9 1/2 ft., most guys on here use plywood which I intended to do. Seeing that ply isn't but 8ft. in length, will I have to "sister" the remaining foot and a half? Three quarter wood will not fit into channel for stringer. Original stringers were 1/2".
 

Keepingitglassy

Recruit
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Jun 25, 2016
Messages
1
I have the same question as above. I was hoping to keep the channels to lay the stringers but it appears I should start grinding. I wondered about using hardwood planks for stringers. I can seem to find marine grade ply around herself in upstate ny.
 

lckstckn2smknbrls

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Sep 18, 2008
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1,114
I have the same question as above. I was hoping to keep the channels to lay the stringers but it appears I should start grinding. I wondered about using hardwood planks for stringers. I can seem to find marine grade ply around herself in upstate ny.

​While you should start your own thread, you don't need marine plywood. Exterior grade plywood is more than adequate.
 

jbcurt00

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Oct 25, 2011
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Buy 3/8 exterior ply, fir plywood may even be easier to find in 3/8ths then in 3/4.

Rip a sheet into strips and laminate 2pcs of 3/8ths to get 3/4in, and by staggering the overlap, you can get laminated rips as long as you need.

Take 1 rip 8ft, cut another 8ftr in half and laminate it to the 1st 4ft of the 8ftr. Laminate another 8ftr to the 2nd 4ft of the 1st 8ftr.

Flip the now 12ft piece over and laminate the 2nd 4ft 1/2 rip to the last 4ft of the 2nd 8ftr
 

samtech

Seaman Apprentice
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Aug 24, 2013
Messages
45
Thanks for info. You say laminate (2) 3/8"strips to get 3/4 ". My original stringers were 1/2". I may be missing something here. Please forgive me if i have. Thanks again.
 

CrazyFinn

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Dec 12, 2016
Messages
357
Thanks for info. You say laminate (2) 3/8"strips to get 3/4 ". My original stringers were 1/2". I may be missing something here. Please forgive me if i have. Thanks again.

If you have ground everything down, there should be no issue installing a 3/4" stringer instead of 1/2". Or any other thickness you want.
 

jbcurt00

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Yep, 3/4in is more typicallu used for stringers.

If you can find flat fir 1/4in plywood you could use that, but dbl 3/8ths will be fine too.
 

samtech

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 24, 2013
Messages
45
I did finish grinding hull today. You're right. 3/4" will work fine. Thanks. Another guestion: I noticed when i removed cap, the decking (plywood), the only places where wood was attached was where my console, rod box, storage box, and front deck. I had to sawsall the bottoms of each to remove cap. My question is this. Should i put it back that way (deck) or extend it to the hull sides and tab it in?
 

samtech

Seaman Apprentice
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Aug 24, 2013
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45
The original deck was never tabbed to hull. Came from factory that way 1989 Glasstream.
 

samtech

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 24, 2013
Messages
45
P2210953.JPG These are some pics of of how the deck was attached to hull. I used sawsall to cut beneath rod box,console,storage box and seating area which released cap for removeable. My question is this, do i need to tab new deck to hull(sides), or put it back the way it was? I don't see how the original deck was held in place. There was some type of material just "throwed" around on top of stringers, that's it. Please notice there is a space almost middle ways of boat with nothing there. The boat is a 1989 Glastream. P2210947.JPG
 

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samtech

Seaman Apprentice
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Aug 24, 2013
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Sorry, kinda repeated myself. Take a look and tell me what you think.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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25,924
IMHO, I'd always tab the deck to the hull sides on any Fiberglass boat. I want the deck to be totally sealed and congruent with the stringers, transom and hull. This enhances the strength and integrity of the overall hull structure. Again, Just an Old Dumb Okies opinion.;)
 
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