1978 Phantom Floor Rebuild Question

Colby7792

Recruit
Joined
Jan 16, 2017
Messages
3
Hello All,

I am new to the forum so please excuse if this has already been asked, I did not see anything in a quick search.

I purchased a boat last week knowing I would need to rip out part of the floor and put in a new one, what I didnt know what the extent of the damage. As you can see in the picture i ended up having to remove the whole floor. Here is where my question comes into play.

I do not know if this is a norm on all bass boats, but if you look at the floor on the inside where the hull meets the floor, you will see a nice 1 1\2 in lip where the hull was screwed to the floor via the factory. The wood floor that was rotten actually extends about 2-4 inches depending on what spot you measure past that lip underneath and in between the outside and inside hull, once it meets the interior wall of the outside hull, it is attached with fiberglass.

Now, the wood has rotted, it was like pulling out mulch.. My question is, how would you go about resealing the resined marine plywood floor to the interior hull, so that water does not seap through?
Just screws alone would not water proof the lip to the floor, and I don't want to fiberglass to the interior hull as it would cause an ugly seam to the lip, but I have no way to get inside in between thr interior and exterior hull to refiberglass the floor as it was done factory.

Please excuse if I did not use proper terminology, as I am still fairly new to the boating world.

Also, I plan to strengthen the stringers in their weakspots by sandwhiching them with two boards before I refoam and install the plywood, any better ideas or ways of doing this would alsonbe appreciated.
 

mickyryan

Rear Admiral
Joined
Apr 18, 2016
Messages
4,210
remove the rubrail remove the cap then completely redo stringers and floor and seal that watertight then the piece that sits inside the top form to floor you can seal separately keeping it removable and wont matter if water gets under it because your bilge is sealed.
be sure you have the boat properly supported
take plenty of measurements to be sure the cap will go back on after completed floor work
use cross braces to hold top of hull in proper place while performing repairs
There are posts here on forums for doing this type of repair just do a search for transom and stringer replacement.
 

Colby7792

Recruit
Joined
Jan 16, 2017
Messages
3
I see what you are saying, I was under the impression that the top part or Cap as you referred to it, was removable but i was not 100% sure. As for removing it, i am guessing this will require me to remove the motor, i am not currently in a position where i can remove the motor or support removing the cap as i am doing this in my garage. Would you have any other suggestions or would this be my only option?
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Removing the motor and the cap is not that difficult. Build a rolling motor stand to set the motor on and then remove the rubber bumper rail and all the screws/rivets to pop the cap. once it's off you can store it out side. No other way to get at the full length of the stringers.
 

52FordF2

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 31, 2013
Messages
372
Not sure who did it, but since your in a garage you could hang the cap from the ceiling. Like they did, or you could put it outside.
It may be a little head banger sometime though. :facepalm::laugh: Ouch that hurt.
 
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