Bought a 1998 Sea Ray Sundancer 270 wide beam with rot...

[alldodge]

I got one of these
https://www.uline.com/Product/Detai...CTjTBlGd5cdaqDEXhl4eIaAghd8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

But also took the part number and searched for it. Searching for just the part number allowed me to find it cheaper. Since your dealing with dust and not chemical, you can find cheaper ones. My thought with respirators is they protect you more then anything else with glass and fumes, so don't skimp.

The glass dust can be stopped with these
https://www.uline.com/Product/Detai...-AwFNUea0cDlBP4jng8FkaAvpi8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

I used these mostly for fumes and dust
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Cartridge...9011_1_17?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1484867988&sr=1-17

 

[drewm3i]

Thank you pal! Is there a multipurpose grinder to buy that can also take saw blades? I think the sawzall/hacksaw will be great for cutting out the bulkhead...

 

[drewm3i]

I think I'm going to get this one:
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eB...4917&category=11905&pm=1&ds=0&t=1484869430024

 

[alldodge]

That should work
I used these Tyvek suits, but didn't buy them from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-TY122S.../dp/B01JOWAOEG

Think I bought 2 dozen and still have a few

 

[drewm3i]

That should work
I used these Tyvek suits, but didn't buy them from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-TY122S.../dp/B01JOWAOEG

Think I bought 2 dozen and still have a few

Are they disposable?

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Yes, after they get loaded up with dust you won't want to reuse it. Don't use the cheap ones from Harbor Freight......trust me they don't work.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I bought the oscillating tool from HF....it worked great. I recommend using the bimetal wood/metal blade p/n 61821. It was the only one that held up well in fiberglass. Also i really like the 32 grit flap disks from HF for my 4-1/2" grinder. They really work well. Also pick up some 1/16" metal cutting disks for the grinder. I used these cutting disks more than the sawzall.

 

[tpenfield]

To expand on AD's list,

SawZall - assorted wrecking blades 6", 8" 12" . . . they will get dull fast.

Circular Saw - you may have some need for this, but the sawZall is better along the surface of the hull . . . like filleting a fish.

Angle Grinder w/ sandpaper wheel - 36 grit (or similar)

Belt Sander 3x21 should be fine - 50 grit or lower (coarse)

Assorted handsaws

Chisel set

Pry bars - assorted lengths

Drill driver - bits and screw driver attachments

Resin rollers

Resin tray (shallow long disposable pan)

Flash lights

Drop cloths - plastic

Duct Tape (no project is complete without it)

Shop Vacuum

Chain hoist (2,000 lb rating)

Gantry for engine & fuel tank hoisting . . . probably have to build something, unless you have access to a backhoe of other lifting equipment.

Assorted wooded blocks 2x4, 2x6

Chip brushes - Assorted . . . 2", 3"

Mixing cups assorted sizes, not too big though (1-2 quart) as you will want to mix the resin in small batches.

I use the best chemical respirator that I can find at ACE, Lowes, or Home Depot . . . the ones with the replaceable cartridges. You can use dust filter for the grinding and then go with just the cartridges when you use the resins, foam, etc.

That's about all that I can think of for now :noidea:

Probably for 'hollowing out' the engine mount stringers, you will need some long reach bits and a high speed drill. I wrap the end of the drill bit with a couple rounds of 36 grit sand paper, held onto the drill bit with duct tape.

I am not a big fan of doing a full epoxy restoration, but can certainly understand the concern about fumes. I've used mostly Vinyl Ester (VE) resin (wicked fumes) as it has a longer 'open' time than poly and better adhesion than poly . . . sort of like a blend of the features of epoxy (adhesion) and poly (rigidity).

 

[Roady68]

Pull the motors and cut into it. Remove the foam and let the stringer dry out. Then reglass, refoam and be on your way. You may only have to pull one motor.

FYI, Roady is a good friend of mine from the Chaparral forum. He also bought a cruiser that needs some love. We have talked a lot about our planned repairs, so he isn't hi-jacking my thread .

I'll start a new thread soon. Something has happened since we got the boat. The fiberglass under the motor mount is now cracked. It wasn't like that when the survey was done. I think the cold snap a few weeks ago may have frozen the water causing it to expand. I'll get pictures up later this weekend. Looks like I will need more help than I anticipated.

 

[Roady68]

Thank you pal! Is there a multipurpose grinder to buy that can also take saw blades? I think the sawzall/hacksaw will be great for cutting out the bulkhead...

I picked up a Makita rechargeable 3.5" circular saw with an extra battery. Works great as you can set the depth to either just go through the fiberglass, or all the way through the plywood too. Plus its pretty small and light weight. It does have a limit on how close you can get to the hull or other obstructions. I also just picked up the oscillating saw to get along side the hull. I'll see how well that works this weekend too.

 

[alldodge]

I'll start a new thread soon. Something has happened since we got the boat. The fiberglass under the motor mount is now cracked. It wasn't like that when the survey was done. I think the cold snap a few weeks ago may have frozen the water causing it to expand. I'll get pictures up later this weekend. Looks like I will need more help than I anticipated.

Unless your going to another boat I would suggest not starting another thread

 

[Baylinerchuck]

Unless your going to another boat I would suggest not starting another thread

This is drew's original thread, so Roady should start his own thread when he starts his restoration. See post #69.

Sorry to hear about your motormounts Roady.....plenty of folks on here to give you advise along the way.

 

[tpenfield]

Yes, Roady has a Chappy Sig 300 with rot in one of the outside stringers . . . Probably best to start a separate thread.

 

[tpenfield]

I think I'm going to get this one:
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eB...4917&category=11905&pm=1&ds=0&t=1484869430024

Make sure to post a selfie

 

[drewm3i]

Sorry to here that pal! Looks like we will be restoring boats this winter...I've come to terms with mine. Going to do some more digging this weekend.

 

[alldodge]

This is drew's original thread, so Roady should start his own thread when he starts his restoration. See post #69.

Sorry to hear about your motormounts Roady.....plenty of folks on here to give you advise along the way.

Agree, forgot who the OP is. Only forum I'm on that doesn't ID the OP

 

[drewm3i]

Update: got down to the boat today. Some good news, some bad.

I removed the transom drain plug and the transom core was very solid with the exception of one spot where the fastener poked through the gel coat. I shoved a screwdriver in there and it went in pretty good. Got a drill and drilled a hole through that spot and I found wet wood near the opening, but DRY wood at the end of the bit. I then proceeded to inject a bunch of EG into the screw holes and the other soft hole I drilled out.

Good news is the sides of the aft bulkhead and port stringer seem good via core samples. The motor mount stringers are mostly bad, but the seacast will work great as the fiberglass skins are very thick.

So that's where I'm at for now. Will keep updating this thread.

 

[Roady68]

Update: got down to the boat today. Some good news, some bad.

I removed the transom drain plug and the transom core was very solid with the exception of one spot where the fastener poked through the gel coat. I shoved a screwdriver in there and it went in pretty good. Got a drill and drilled a hole through that spot and I found wet wood near the opening, but DRY wood at the end of the bit. I then proceeded to inject a bunch of EG into the screw holes and the other soft hole I drilled out.

Good news is the sides of the aft bulkhead and port stringer seem good via core samples. The motor mount stringers are mostly bad, but the seacast will work great as the fiberglass skins are very thick.

So that's where I'm at for now. Will keep updating this thread.

I'm looking forward to some pictures too. I'm glad I have someone at about the same spot as I am in to go through this.

 

[drewm3i]

Yeah it does help for sure to share experiences with one another to get this crap fixed...hopefully our transoms are good. If only that one spot is bad, I dodged a huge bullet.

 

[drewm3i]

Unfortunately my guy that was going to pull the engines backed out...I still think though that if I can get a scissor jack under the motors that I can make this repair. I will cut the aft bulkhead if need be to get the tank out as that seems to be the hardest part to get to. As long as the tank comes out, I think I'm okay. Wonder if I could pull the tank forward through the cabin? It's plastic so I'm not sure how heavy it is.