72' Browning Refurb

briangcc

Commander
Joined
Jul 10, 2012
Messages
2,090
Just read through your thread and let me offer my condolences on your loss. Glad to see you at it and I understand the drive as my oldest boys are now asking when we are taking the boat out again...in the middle of a snow storm!. So I get it.


Can't offer any advice on the roll & tip as personally, I've only done spray jobs and those use a heck of a lot finer grit paper for initial sanding - 180-220 grit. 80 grit to me seems excessive but if that's what the guys are recommending, go for it.

Might have missed it but are you going back with the same shade green or are you going a different direction??


Good luck!!
 

bobberstop

Seaman
Joined
Sep 3, 2016
Messages
59
Has anybody used
INTERLUX VC PERFORMANCE EPOXY?
What is the life span of this stuff? I get the feeling from reading some reviews that people are re-applying every 2-5 years? Does that sound right?
I like everything else I read about it.
How do I know if I should use a product like INTERLUX INTER PROTECT 2000E vs INTERPROTECT HD or neither?
 

bobberstop

Seaman
Joined
Sep 3, 2016
Messages
59
Keep telling myself I need to post my progress. But every time I find time to sit down and post, I go out and work on the boat instead!!! I spent the winter working on painting the hull with vc performance epoxy. I also laid down some Interlux 2000e prior to the vc. I thought this would add an extra layer of protection, especially on the keel where I had some pretty bad beach rash. In hind sight I would for go the 2000e because it was really overkill and it does not dry to a smooth finish, because of the microplates. Which I was told prior to applying by interlux but did not fully appreciate until my 3 coat of vc.
I used the roll & roll method which worked amazingly well and very easy to do. It does leave a slight stipple finish but one I could live with. The stipple on top of the microplates however left me wanting better. The solution was to of course was to sand between coats of vc to knock down the high spots. Eventually the finished improved after 3 more coats of vc and I was completely happy. That is until I read about barnishing vc!! Once I read about it, I had to try it!! It was amazing!! Started with lightly sanding with 400 grit, then 600,800,1200 and finally 2000 grit and there it was a finish that would rival gelcoat, minus the shine. Its definitely not as shiny as new gelcoat but its not exactly a matte finish either. I am sure happy with the finish, hopefully it will last more then a few years!!

After that I re-installed the roll cage & rolled the hull back upright. I highly recommend this method over the hoisting from the bow and stern method. I felt in total control of it the whole time, and was able to accomplish it with just myself and two good anchor points. (a vehicle on either side of the boat)
 

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bobberstop

Seaman
Joined
Sep 3, 2016
Messages
59
Once I flipped the hull over I got to work on installing the the floor. I started by getting my aluminum fuel tank installed and secured. I then used Arbaco plywood sealed on the underside with resin & csm as decking I glued and screwed it using PL and stainless screws. Pre-drill into the cleats and used 5200 to seal around the screw. Next I peanut buttered the 1/4" to 1/2" gap around the hull. After that I drilled holes in the deck for pour foam. I'm not sure I'm totally sold on the foam but I hoping it makes a noticeable difference in feel of the ride. (so I've heard from a couple of sources) It was easier to work with then I thought it would be, but needed twice what I thought I would. You don't have to rush like a crazy man, just have everything laid out and ready. Then just follow the process. It is extremely sticky so be mindful of what you get it on. I then tabbed the floor to the hull with 1708. I also put 1708 over the seams in the floor and tabbed around the bilge. I PB the disc's back in the foam holes and pre-treated the whole with resin. Once that started to kick laid a layer csm over the entire floor over-lapping the seams by 4-6 inches, up the hull 6" and wrapped down into the bilge 6". Hopefully creating a water tight barrier. I'm considering a second layer of csm for added protection. I plan on covering the floor with seadek so I'm not sure I will need the second layer.
 

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bobberstop

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Sep 3, 2016
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Top left & Center- PB foam holes and plywood seams.
Top Right- Bilge Tabbed!!
Lower Right- Tabbing done and pre-treat coat applied!!
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bobberstop

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Sep 3, 2016
Messages
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Before I PB the floor to the hull I wiped it down with acetone, then prior to tabbing I sanded w/ 80 grit over the whole deck to smooth en out any rough spots and to level out and high ground. I then vacuumed and thoroughly wiped down w/ acetone the complete inside of the hull. With all the tabbing done and pre-coat of resin getting tacky, I was able to carefully layout the csm from the sides of the boat and not have to walk on or contact the tacky plywood at all. I laid out all the csm and cut to fit, I then took larger scrap pieces of csm, laid them on top and worked off the scrap pieces, so not to damage the full layer of csm. I was amazed how well this worked and how quickly It went.
 

bobberstop

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Sep 3, 2016
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59
As I’m getting closer to putting the cap back on, I’m thinking about modifying the open bow. Currently the open bow with a finished floor is all attacked to the cap. The plywood I. The floor of the open bow area is partially rotten, so my plan was to replace it. But now I’m wondering if I can just cut it out altogether? Then I could PB and tab the seat sections to the hull floor. This would eliminate the small step up into the bow seating area. I just not sure if it was designed that way to allow movement of the cap or if it just was easier layout to separate them. Any ideas?
 

mickyryan

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Apr 18, 2016
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4,210
As I’m getting closer to putting the cap back on, I’m thinking about modifying the open bow. Currently the open bow with a finished floor is all attacked to the cap. The plywood I. The floor of the open bow area is partially rotten, so my plan was to replace it. But now I’m wondering if I can just cut it out altogether? Then I could PB and tab the seat sections to the hull floor. This would eliminate the small step up into the bow seating area. I just not sure if it was designed that way to allow movement of the cap or if it just was easier layout to separate them. Any ideas?

i believe they designed them this way to support the windows you cut it out and it might wind up sagging and you would play hell trying to get it sorted
 

briangcc

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Jul 10, 2012
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IF I'm reading this correct, you have a small foot well in the open bow that is attached to the cap. The footwell is reinforced with wood which is rotten. Do I have that right thus far?

IF so, here's how this dummy (ie. me) would do it...

1. Re-attach the cap to the hull.
2. Get the window attached and opening/closing as it should.
3. Install vertical braces under the window running down to the floor to help maintain alignment.
4. Recheck the window again.
5. Using an oscillating tool, carefully remove the footwell from the cap being careful not to cut anything below it.
6. Assuming there is a floor beneath the bow cushions, shim the supports as needed.
7. Fill gap with PB.
8. Tab in as needed.
9. Remove vertical braces and recheck the window again. Provided everything remained where it should, alignment shouldn't be an issue.


My other option would be to simply replace the wood, just like you would do in a transom repair, and then make some sort of ramp to adjust between the two differing floor levels.


I have (3) small boys so I get the idea of eliminating any tripping hazards. That being said, I am by no means an expert so I would defer to those who may have a better suggestion. I'm just spitballing here so to speak.
 

mickyryan

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Apr 18, 2016
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Brian pretty much hit it spot on , you could just flip cap and fix all the wood thats rotted like cleat areas and stuff then you would know that you were like brand new, lots of folks always forget top cap has wood thats usuallly gone as well and while you got it off why not fix with some pourable or something:)
 

bobberstop

Seaman
Joined
Sep 3, 2016
Messages
59
Thanks for the replies, that is exactly what I’m talking about. Just wasn’t sure of the correct terms to discribe it.
mickyryan, I didn’t even think of the windows!! The window alignment is touchy on a good day, if the cap were out wack.....ugh!!!
I just wasn’t sure if the boat needed some give between the two floors.

I really like the idea of one level floor, I leaning towards briancc idea, it’s kinda what I was envisioning. I think the key is going to be bracing the sh@! out of it so it holds form. Also I’m not sure how easy it would be to flip the cap, it is way flimsier then the hull.

I’ll have to see if I can brace enough to be reasonably comfortable that it will hold is form. Looks like I’ve figured out what I’m doing this weekend!!!
Thanks again for help!!
 

briangcc

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Jul 10, 2012
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2,090
Well...provided the floor you installed from the transom runs all the way to the bow here's how I would tackle shimming up the open bow seating...

1. Get some cedar shakes (Homely Despots, or Blowes), cut them into 1" long strips and then drive them in so everything is in alignment. The shims would be between the floor and the verticals that support the bow seating.
2. From there...PB around them (don't PB them in) and let that set up.
3. Once dry, remove the shims and PB the holes left by the shims.
4. Then Tab across the whole shooting match.

I'm sure I'm oversimplifying it but you get the idea.
 

mickyryan

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Apr 18, 2016
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another way is after you have reattached it to hull close window with a 1/4 inch shim between window frame mating surfaces then take measurements then cut bottom of the floor out put backing foam behund then use pb to go to floor then after the pb is set take washer out open window and close it see if its ok from that point the rest is cake:) also to flip just take and get a few friends it should be easy to flip. top caps usually are lightest part except front but i removed a 17 ft cap by myself and carried the front while back was on dolly.
 

bobberstop

Seaman
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Sep 3, 2016
Messages
59
Great idea with the shims, basically ttreat it llike bedding a stringer. My cap is pretty lite too,I just figure the more I move it the higher the probability I screw it up 😳, but I guess cutting the footwell floor out and mounting it crooked to the hull would be a pretty big screw up too!!!😬🙄
 

bobberstop

Seaman
Joined
Sep 3, 2016
Messages
59
Almost forgot I wanted to re-enforce the bow for future trolling motor. Here’s what I came up with, kinda hard to see on the bench. Planning on coating with resin, tab it w/ 1708 and PB it to the under side of the bow.



​​​​​​​
 

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bobberstop

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Sep 3, 2016
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Finished re-enforcing the bow, and started working on the stern. I had cut out an area were the Bimini laid into to make it easier to remove the engine. Whenever used the Bimini so I’m just re-enforcing it and boxing it in. I also made some drink holders in the bow area
 

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bobberstop

Seaman
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Sep 3, 2016
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59
Got the cap mounted back on, put the windshield on to square everything up. Then braced the heck out of everything to hold it in place. Then cut the bow footwell floor out, shimming as I cut. Once the door was removed, I sanded and clean up around the bottom and PB it to the hull floor. Once the first round of PB had kicked I removed the windshield to add with access. I also got the gunnel horizontal support pieces cut to fit, I had been waiting on these until I had the cap re-attached to insure the cap and hull would line up.

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bobberstop

Seaman
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Sep 3, 2016
Messages
59
Some days I feel like progress comes in leaps and bounds and other days I claw and scratch to make any progress at all!! Crazy!!

once I get the bow footwell and the gunnel supports PB and tabbed in I feel like I will have reached a milestone, everything that I had removed from the hull will have been replaced w/ new!!

Couple of things im looking for input on,

1st- how to secure the cap to the hull? Right now I have small screws holding them together, (which I need to remove before putting the rubrail back on). do I Pb and tab them together from the inside? They were stapled together, I would need a special stapler for this👎.

2nd- Where I boxed in the stern I was thinking off running my bilge vent fan and hoses through there, then drop them down into the bilge. This would keep them neat, organized and protected. (for the most part) I divided the box in half so the other side I could do the same with the fresh air intake. Anyone know of issue why this would be a bad idea?

As always thanks for any input!!!
 
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