1990 Crestliner Phantom rebuild

joeltjen10

Seaman
Joined
Jul 18, 2016
Messages
54
No Title

It's been a few weeks but some progress has been made.

I went through and sealed all of the floors in the stern of the boat with 2 coats of epoxy on each side. Then I glued down the carpet making sure the top was smooth. Followed by flipping the floor pieces over and gluing down the edges but I did use a few staples to hold it in place. The carpet was time intensive but I found that just a light coating of glue was enough to hold it Using clamps with 2x4's along the edges to hold it tight was really effective. I would highly recommend is making sure you have enough clamps so you can do several pieces at a time easily and you aren't trying to just make it work

Now that everything is sized into place I can trim down the hatch and bow floor as it looks like I need to sand down between 1/8" and 1/4" to allow room for the carpet between the floor boards before I seal and carpet.

Only a few weeks left until the water is open around here!
 

Attachments

  • photo260085.jpg
    photo260085.jpg
    244.7 KB · Views: 4

fishrdan

Admiral
Joined
Jan 25, 2008
Messages
6,989
Noticed all the rods laying on the deck. Here's what I did to store rods when I rebuilt my Superhawk 1800.

Copy of DSCF3260.JPG

Pretty much the same thing on the starboard side to stow the stern light, gaff and a couple short rods
 

Attachments

  • Copy of DSCF3260.JPG
    Copy of DSCF3260.JPG
    147.7 KB · Views: 3

joeltjen10

Seaman
Joined
Jul 18, 2016
Messages
54
Noticed all the rods laying on the deck. Here's what I did to store rods when I rebuilt my Superhawk 1800.



Pretty much the same thing on the starboard side to stow the stern light, gaff and a couple short rods

I actually have one of those behind the gunnel wall on the starboard side and I added the extra Taper lock base in the back so it can hold a rod rack as I have been doing a lot of cat fishing which requires lots of extra rods.
 

joeltjen10

Seaman
Joined
Jul 18, 2016
Messages
54
Noticed all the rods laying on the deck. Here's what I did to store rods when I rebuilt my Superhawk 1800.



Pretty much the same thing on the starboard side to stow the stern light, gaff and a couple short rods

Did you share your Superhawk rebuild anywhere? I'd love to take a look at it.

Before rebuilding I started looking at other boats to see if I just wanted to buy a "new to me" boat rather than fix it up. I really like the style of my boat and I'm pretty sure the Superhawk is one of the replacements of the Phantom that I was looking at. Ultimately I decided to rebuild and sell in 5-7 years, hoping to have a little more value than before I rebuilt it.
 

fishrdan

Admiral
Joined
Jan 25, 2008
Messages
6,989
I didn't post up the build, maybe small parts here and there. Fishing porch (swim platform) and a couple other things.

When I was rebuilding my boat I scoured google images for different boats, getting ideas on things that I liked so I could incorporate them into "my" boat. Probably have 300-400 pics of different tinnys. One thing I really wished I had done was to make a dual battery compartment in the bow, only a single in my boat.
 

joeltjen10

Seaman
Joined
Jul 18, 2016
Messages
54
No Title

Got the floors and most of the side panels in place.

One thing I've noticed is that it's VERY messy putting Epoxy into the deck pilot holes. I tried several options including a pipe cleaner, using an eye dropper to shoot it in, directly coating the screws. Each one has left some crusty spots in the carpet. Are there any better options to ensure these holes are sealed?
 

Attachments

  • photo261121.jpg
    photo261121.jpg
    282.2 KB · Views: 2

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
Joined
Mar 8, 2017
Messages
1,658
Have you tried to put the screws in, then back out, add the epoxy, and reset? Will be difficult to prevent squeeze out. Other option is to drill your pilot hole through masking tape put a couple drops on top of that then drive your screw. That should only coat your screw as it goes in and any squeeze should be left on the masking tape that you then rip off. Have used these options when doing fine wood working, with titebond III and have gotten satisfactory results.
 

joeltjen10

Seaman
Joined
Jul 18, 2016
Messages
54
Have you tried to put the screws in, then back out, add the epoxy, and reset? Will be difficult to prevent squeeze out. Other option is to drill your pilot hole through masking tape put a couple drops on top of that then drive your screw. That should only coat your screw as it goes in and any squeeze should be left on the masking tape that you then rip off. Have used these options when doing fine wood working, with titebond III and have gotten satisfactory results.


I really like the masking tape idea! Thanks!

Any good ideas out there for getting the hard chunks off the carpet besides cutting it? I've read that Vinegar or acetone work but are very tedious. I'm not sure if they would be worth it or not.
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
Joined
Mar 8, 2017
Messages
1,658
I really like the masking tape idea! Thanks!

Any good ideas out there for getting the hard chunks off the carpet besides cutting it? I've read that Vinegar or acetone work but are very tedious. I'm not sure if they would be worth it or not.


Acetone to try and thin out or a heat gun. Not sure on the surface it is on, but would do a test sample if you have extra material before using heat. Heat would be the best option if the material can handle it.
 

joeltjen10

Seaman
Joined
Jul 18, 2016
Messages
54
No Title

Well, after a month of forgetting to take pictures and post. I finally put my boat in the water last weekend. While I have one hatch I'm waiting on the hinges for in the bow, everything is running well and I'm pretty happy with how everything turned out. Here are a few pictures of the "Final" project.

I believe I have one thing I need to address yet and would like some help from the iboats experts if you have any ideas. When driving, primarily at high speeds I am smelling gas from hatch near where the gas hoses enter the tank. I'm a little nervous I hit the vent with a screw. I'm going to have to take out one section of floor for sure but I was wondering if anyone had a good idea on whether this would be the vent or if there is a good & safe way to fill the hole if that's what I find?

If I can't fill the hole would it be easiest to connect a new hose to the old one and pull it through? I believe the vent goes back through the gas cap and fill.

Thanks all!
 

Attachments

  • photo263946.jpg
    photo263946.jpg
    260.9 KB · Views: 11
  • photo263948.jpg
    photo263948.jpg
    234.7 KB · Views: 4
  • photo263947.jpg
    photo263947.jpg
    229.2 KB · Views: 4

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,747
You could use a fuel resistant 5/8" double barb fitting to repair the hole in the vent hose. Find hole, cut hose at hole and insert barbed fitting and clamp it. Done...

Boat looks great :thumb:

fetch
 

joeltjen10

Seaman
Joined
Jul 18, 2016
Messages
54
You could use a fuel resistant 5/8" double barb fitting to repair the hole in the vent hose. Find hole, cut hose at hole and insert barbed fitting and clamp it. Done...

Boat looks great :thumb:

fetch

Thanks Watermann! I'll see if I can find the hole. I'm afraid it's going to be under one of the most difficult pieces of flooring to remove. I'll spray some gas leak detector around where I think it might be and see if I'm right.
 
Top