1990 Crestliner Phantom rebuild

[proshadetree]

Yep flebay has almost every color known to man. I have had very good luck matching existing colors or the admirals wishes.

 

[joeltjen10]

Yep flebay has almost every color known to man. I have had very good luck matching existing colors or the admirals wishes.

Yeah I've tried several places with no luck. I just ordered some samples that match my seats so I can send them off to trimjobber or others to have them try and match with what they have.

On another note, pulling staples is a real pain regardless of what tool you have.

Hopefully in the next 2 weeks I'll have made some progress worth showing as I start to epoxy the wood and paint the panels.

 

[proshadetree]

Who's seats did you buy? Can you get material from them? Wise I think offers material by the yard.

 

[joeltjen10]

Well, I was hoping to have some pictures of things moving along but nothing is picture worthy. I have started coating the wood so all of the vinyl covered pieces are getting the oil based primer and the carpet covered - Marine grade is getting the epoxy sealant.

I finally have options for vinyl, in fact I have several options from a variety of vendors and I just need to make a final decision and order it.

As I'm planning out the order in which things will need to be installed back in, I'm realizing that I have some random things that need to be completed like replacing the hoses on my livewell and adding a recirculation system as I'm not sure how I will be able to access the livewell once it's installed so those things need to be done now.

Now that I've been looking into livewells and recirculation, I've started to wonder what is really needed. I was previously using a livewell pump with an overflow stand pipe AND a thru-hull (out the side) overflow (1 1/8"), and the recirculation came from a timer switch that would run the intake pump for 30 seconds every 3 minutes causing the livewell to overflow. I've been reading about other systems that seem fancy and possibly overkill for me who only keeps a few occasional panfish for a meal or panfish to use as Catfish bait.

In order to maximize my livewell (15.5 gallons), would I really need anything more than an intake pump with a power stream head, 1 1/8" Standup pipe overflow drain, and a 2nd pump, hose, and nozzle for recirculation? I could then eliminate the thru-hull overflow and put the recirculation pump on the timer switch.

It may be slow but I feel progress, only 2-3 months before the weather starts being marine friendly again.

 

[Watermann]

Personally I don't see the need for a 2nd pump to recirculate the water in the well especially if you have the timer running the aerator with fresh water intake. You would still need an overflow thru hull no matter what, otherwise how would the water be drained? If you used the pump to recirculate and pump out the well you would still need a thu hull outlet.

 

[joeltjen10]

Personally I don't see the need for a 2nd pump to recirculate the water in the well especially if you have the timer running the aerator with fresh water intake. You would still need an overflow thru hull no matter what, otherwise how would the water be drained? If you used the pump to recirculate and pump out the well you would still need a thu hull outlet.

The stand up pipe would act as the overflow as it's essentially a PVC pipe with a strainer on it that leads to a 1 1/8" drain pipe that goes back to the transom. I just wonder if running the intake pump on a timer would cause it to overflow. I had issues with this pre-rebuild but wasn't sure if it was just the fact it didn't seal and splashed over when I was moving or it couldn't drain fast enough.

 

[joeltjen10]

Last night I pulled everything out of the bow so I could start sealing the floor with epoxy. I added a picture of the empty bow which needs a good vacuum to clean up the mouse nest remains I found all under the floor.

I also added a picture of all the vertical panels as they are in progress of being painted with the oil based primer. 2 coats being done on each side.

 

[Watermann]

I see the aerator pump over took the drains ability to keep the well from over flow. Now that could be a problem alright. You could add a shut off valve and close it down some to reduce the flow from the pump.

Nice forward deck area you have laid out, I like that. :thumb:

 

[joeltjen10]

I see the aerator pump over took the drains ability to keep the well from over flow. Now that could be a problem alright. You could add a shut off valve and close it down some to reduce the flow from the pump.

Nice forward deck area you have laid out, I like that. :thumb:

Thanks.

There was no access to the storage underneath the sides before. I couldn't even get my river anchor or my digger anchors through the opening for storage. Drove me crazy to not have that space. While I'm losing some livewell capacity I'm gaining all the storage and have space underneath one of the rear seats to put a baitwell in if I need it.

Moving the batteries to the bow was also important to help distribute the weight that I added to the transom in moving from a 12v to 24v trolling motor. I also wanted to raise the pedestal so I could have a little better view while I'm fishing.

My upholsterer is going to make removable (I assume by snaps) cushions that cover side hatches so my wife and kids can ride up there when we are just cruising.

I've gone through many iterations by paper, styrofoam, and scrap wood to finalize the design. More time spent researching and planning than actually working on the project.

 

[joeltjen10]

Last night I was able to finish cutting the holes for the pedestals, cutting out the floor hatch, making sure everything lined up. This means all of the floor is ready for the epoxy resin. My plan is 2 coats of epoxy resin on both sides and ends but before diving in I wanted to question the forum on a few things:

1. Is 2 coats sufficient or should I really plan on 3?
2. What are the min and max times I should wait between coats if I don't want to sand? I've read 6 hours and I've read as long as its the same day.
3. Would there be much added value if I used the oil based primer to the top before covering with carpet (yes, had to go with carpet)? Can this be applied directly to the epoxy without sanding?
4. Since it's going to be covered is it save to assume that rolling will be sufficient and I won't need to tip it.


Thanks for your help! I will take more pictures of the inside tonight after I get all the sand and dirt cleaned up.

 

[joeltjen10]

After a few weeks of being pulled away, I was able to take a day from work and get 75% of the vinyl attached to the panels. I'm about ready to start putting the epoxy resin on the plywood floors and believe that my questions may have been buried previously due to duplicating the post. If anyone has any insight it would help me significantly as I prepare to epoxy, carpet, and install the floors

1. Is 2 coats of epoxy resin sufficient or should I really plan on 3?
2. What are the min and max times I should wait between epoxy coats if I don't want to sand? I've read 6 hours and I've read as long as its the same day. I will be putting the resin on in my unfinished basement so the temperature should be pretty standard between 60 and 65 degrees.
3. Would there be much added value if I used the oil based primer over the epoxy before covering with carpet? Can this be applied directly to the epoxy without sanding?
4. Since it's going to be covered is it save to assume that rolling the epoxy will be sufficient and I won't need to tip it.

Thanks in advance for your help and any additional advice people want to throw out.

 

[Watermann]

2 coats on the flats would be 4 on the edges and I believe that is good and just do nice even coats. I don't know about the second application of resin as far as times go, the manufacturer should have that info though. I wouldn't bother with using a primer, I see nothing to gain from coating sealed wood with primer since it's going to be covered with vinyl.

 

[joeltjen10]

2 coats on the flats would be 4 on the edges and I believe that is good and just do nice even coats. I don't know about the second application of resin as far as times go, the manufacturer should have that info though. I wouldn't bother with using a primer, I see nothing to gain from coating sealed wood with primer since it's going to be covered with vinyl.

Thanks for the info! I wouldn't have looked at the edges getting 4 coats like that. I would have likely done them once with each side.

It took a little bit of digging but I eventually found from one of the manufacturers' that as long as you do it in the same day sanding shouldn't be needed.

 

[joeltjen10]

No Title

Spent part of yesterday putting my first 2 coats on 2 of the pieces. I figured it would be better to start small in case I screwed it up.

The Epoxy dried really well and after about 6 hours it was dry enough so my fingers didn't stick to it but it took a 2nd coat of epoxy really well. I'm hoping that tonight I can flip them and put both coats on the other side.

Full Picture Set:
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=REoxaTVNQ3JCeHplQkstX1FuczFZZTBjR3JSZ1hn

 

[Watermann]

Lookin good, glad the resin went on ok.

 

[joeltjen10]

Does anyone have any tips on how to wrap the carpet around that little notch I have? I want to make sure i get full coverage (although it's pretty well hidden). One of the notches came out a little bigger at 1" and the other is about 1/2". They are both probably about 3-4" long.

I've done some research and they show how to wrap corners but it's all standard corners. Nothing that shows an odd shape.

 

[joeltjen10]

I was trying to replace my livewell hoses this weekend. When I was running the new hose through I kept running into something so I tried to pull the old hose a little bit out to see if it would be possible to connect to it and pull it all the way through but that wouldn't move at all. I I was able to find a crack where I could see the end of the hose hitting the foam. I decided this was important enough to take out the foam so I could run the hose through.

Now I'm trying to make sure that I have enough flotation. Do I need to remove all of the existing foam before replacing it with foam pool noodles or can I leave the little bit of phone that still in there and just add in the noodles. I'm concerned about the foam becoming waterlogged with the skin being broken

 

[Watermann]

I don't know but it doesn't sound like it's even enough foam removed to worry about. Pics of what you're doing is always helpful.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

If it was me and the foam is already exposed, I would be inclined to remove it and pour new in. I wouldn't want to use pool noodles. One mans opinion.

 

[joeltjen10]

No Title

Sorry about the picture. I tried to upload through my phone but every picture was too big and I couldn't get it to resize. Pictured is one side of the space with the tubing going through and the foam that is still there on the right. On the other side of the center stringer (left) I will have to dig out a smililar amount of foam as well to run a new drain pipe.

You are correct, it's a relatively small amount of foam. 2 sections of roughly 18x15x10 each. I'm not as worried about replacing it as I am about the foam that is still there holding moisture.