Restoring a boat with the intention of selling it.

DeepCMark58A

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Got the motor off last night along with the steering cables and the plywood bow cover as well as the stern corners. Going to get the transom wood off today and get started on sanding the seat back assembly.
 

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ssdale

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Your making great progress. That dash is a critical component and you'll need it when putting on the new oak gunnels to get your correct shape back. Enjoying the pictures, bringing back memories (nightmares) Ha.
Dale
 

DeepCMark58A

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Yeah I am kind of hitting the pause button this morning to take pictures and make notes before I pull the old gunnels out.
 

DeepCMark58A

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Well I removed half of the gunnells and the transom board. Good news on the transom board I assumed I would be replacing that piece of white oak but I started sanding a little. The oak is still solid and is looking pretty good the more I sand, I could flip the board and have the less weathered side out but I like the look of the weathered wood. I started sanding with 50 grit worked my way to 60 grit, will post up a picture when it is done. I have a lot of work to do before I get around to reinstalling the transom board. This weekend I hope to have the other half of the gunnels out and bring the boat to the carwash in town to clean out the inside of the boat. I may even have the paint stripped off the outside this weekend. Looks like it will be forward progress rather than tearing down in 2-3 weeks. One thing I have learned about paint prep work, once you think it is ready go over it again with cleaning and surface prep it makes a huge difference.
 

DeepCMark58A

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Does your mahogany plywood supplier offer it in ribbon stripe? Okoume and Sapele are both great subs for mahogany and Sapele comes in ribbon stripe too.

If price were no object, mahogany and holly plywood would look great on the bow too.

I am trying to visualize how I am going to have to assemble and trim the wood bow cover. I am going to have to do the bow cover in two halves of plywood due to the dimensions, with the curve of the cover and the thickness of the material I am going to have to run a strip of wood up the center of the bow. Things to consider with that is the reinstall of the windshield, trimming the curved edges of the top of the bow where the plywood anchors to the gunnels is going to be another challenge.
 

jbcurt00

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Dont hold me too it, but green wood should (would?) be easier to bend, but the kiln dried wood you said you were buying should succumb if you run it thru a steam box it 1st.

Just wasted the kiln drying by reversing it via steaming it.....

ssdale I dont recall if you used green, dried or steamed wood for your gunwales? Or reused what was on it?
 

DeepCMark58A

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Yeah I am having an issue getting an actual commitment on the one guy delivering on the wood, I found another logger closer but his kiln is only 12'. I might be better off green, I would imagine the actual gunnels could be done without steaming and if the wood is green it might be easier.
 

jbcurt00

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IMO, steaming (if not using fresh green wood) would help by letting it dry in the curve you need it in when mounted, so its not trying to straighten out after you get installed.

But green should be much easier to bend, and after install, when it dries out it'll hold its shape.
 

DeepCMark58A

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Well that is good news that the green wood will be better. I just got a follow up e-mail from the logger. I can get the 14' 1x2 for $3 apiece, that is a bargain.
 

ssdale

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The lumber for the oak gunnels on mine came from the local lumber yard and was kiln dried. I then took it to a local cabinet shop that ripped them down and planed them a little thinner to exactly match the originals. Then gave them a stain and a couple of coats of spar to help preserve them when sandwiched against the hull. By making them slightly thinner also made it surprisingly easy to bend them to the shape of the boat. No steam necessary. Soaking in water would help if you are worried about breakage, but I was concerned about raising the grain of the wood and wetting didn't seem necessary for my 16 footers.
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​Hope this helps,
Dale
 

DeepCMark58A

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Thank you for the pictures of the assembly process, that is the way I was kinda figuring that was the order of the reassembly.
 

DeepCMark58A

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Go it stripped down to the bare hull, took the boat into town to the carwash to get some of the dirt and grime out and off of it. Started stripping off paint yesterday. Should be ready to start painting next weekend.
 

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DeepCMark58A

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Anybody have any suggestions on what thickness of plywood I should use for the bow cover? It it going to have to be made out of two sheets with a seam up the center. I plan on trimming the seam and the edges of the bow with white oak.
 

mickyryan

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1/4" imho just in case someone stands on it if going to sammich it .
 

DeepCMark58A

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Yeah I am wondering about the hull flexing and pulling stuff apart. I am going with white oak 1-7/8" wide on the edges and middle seam. I plan on glassing the 1x4 board that ties the dash to the very front of the boat that the bow cover sits on.
 

jbcurt00

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The plywood on the bow will sit on the dash, the gunwales and that central spar from the dash to the bow, correct?

Depending on what's available from whoever your getting the plywood from, I'd probably use 3/8ths at a minimim if you ever plan to get out on the bow. Or 2 layers of 1/4in.
 

Patfromny

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I agree with JB, exactly my thinking. You never know when you will need to get out on the bow and 1/4" won't support you too well. It will also flex and possibly Crack varnish. 3/8" is a safer bet. You will be capping it with white oak anyway so it can be a bit higher than the gunnels and the oak will hide it.
 

DeepCMark58A

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Oak is going over the top, the side will be covered in aluminum trim but It will be able to trim 1/2 or so pretty well. I may go 1/4" exterior grade then the overlay. I will have to go over a windshield to get on the bow so I don't see it happening but don't want the hull to flex on rogue wave and damage the bow.
 
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