Glastron 1968 GT-160 From Find to Finish

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turtles11756

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the original motor is worth keeping don't let it go far. get out a srew driver and start poking around the floor/transom lots of plywood under that glass that will need attention for sure with the bigger engine.the gelcoating is real nice just a clean and wax
 

fishervw

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the original motor is worth keeping don't let it go far. get out a srew driver and start poking around the floor/transom lots of plywood under that glass that will need attention for sure with the bigger engine.the gelcoating is real nice just a clean and wax

From the previous owner comments it appears this boat was not used for many years and was stored out of the elements. Any plywood I tested with a hammer shows no sign of rot or soft spots. I don't want to damage the wood attempting to make sure the wood is sound. Are there any others out there that may know of any additional tests I can do to make sure the wood is solid in the floor and transom.

Waiting for Christmas to see what Santa brings so I can start on the boat soon.
 

Woodonglass

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The best method you can use to ensure the soundness of the inner cores is to use a drill and drill in to all suspect pieces in several locations. The shavings will tell you their condition. Dark and damp...time to replace. Light and dry...Good to go.:D
 

fishervw

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Woodonglass, what size of test holds would
You suggest? If I did this would it be random floor, transom, and how
Would Ingetvto the stringers?
 

Corjen1

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You can get to the transom bottom via the bilge bowl, I would check the floor round the flotation boxes on both sides, You wont be able to get to aft half of the stringers due to the way the floor is on this boat. You can get to the front half via the ski locker. If you find rot that far up, guaranteed the the back half are shot,

Here is what it looks looks like:

The middle bulkhead is the aft wall of your ski locker. thats about 3 feet aft of the ski locker opening.

IMG_20140526_145212_054_zps902f5182.jpg


You can get to the bottom of the transom through the bilge...

IMG_20140603_074833_691_zps72fa6f6b.jpg
 

Woodonglass

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Don't Listen to this Guy!!!! He did one of the WORST restorations on the Forum!!! Oh wait, I had him confused with someone else!!!!:D:eek::faint2::lol: Cordell IS the expert on this boat and his advice is Absolute GOSPEL!!!! I know NOTHING!!!!
 

fishervw

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So I haven't posted for a while as I have contemplating and researching how I want to proceed with this boat. Winter has been long here in Alberta but now that spring is in the air , it was time to try and start the old motor. Not using it for the project but thought it would be interesting to start it up.
 

fishervw

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Well it didn't go well. Had gas and the engine turned over easily however upon inspection, we had no spark. Will save this problem for another day or maybe for the next person who owns this 1967 Evinrude 80. Time to remove the unit. Made myself a chain hoist bracket in my ceiling of my mancave to help with the removal.
 

fishervw

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Old power vs new power. This is the 1967 80 HP next to my newer 1990 115hp with 100 hrs on it. Love the shape of the older motor but when I attempted to see if the older cowl would magically fit onto the new motor, the size and shape was too much to make it work.
 

fishervw

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What do you think I could get for the Evinrude 80hp? Do you think there are any people interested in this motor?
 

Baylinerchuck

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I don't know, but the look of the older motor sure trumps the utilitarian styling of the new.
 

fishervw

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I went to my local 2017 boat show and 2 things were apparent, boats are worth HUGE amounts of money and none had cool lines like our old boat. That being said my wife and I sat down and thought what we wanted in our restoration.
1. We are going to buff and polish the exterior and keep the original gelcoat.
2. We have decided to go with the retro gauges from Glastron for our dash

3. We are modifying our seats to a more modern look. Instead of 2 single seats in the front we are designing a u shape wrap around seat with a filler cushion, so if we wanted the entire front would be a seat.

4. I always thought the rear seat looked similar to the rear seat and tonneau cover of a 1964 T-bird.

So with that we like this look (thanks Christopher Russo for your interior pic) with the 2 white inserts. Between these seats we are planning to have a pull down armrest with 2 cup holders for those times we cruise the lake. Should we connect the 2 seats as shown in this picture of a seat T-bird?
 

archbuilder

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Sep 12, 2009
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That sucks about the no spark, but I am glad to see you are getting back after it now that spring is here!
 

Corjen1

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I dont know for sure, but I think the back of the seat kind of serves as the front wall of splash-well. Could be wrong though.... I think the T-bird idea would be cool.

I will say after using our GT several times, the no "cup holder" thing is something I'm working on ideas for resolution.
 

ssdale

Starmada Splash of the Year 2016
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Nov 4, 2011
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JMHO- The more original look you keep-such as your gauge example, the better. That 80 hp Evinrude looks super and definitely has value. All the ignition components are available and very reasonable. I know the feeling, but I'm a total engine novice and got my 1960 Evinrude Lark II that had set for 20+ years (no spark) to run like a champ with the help of this forum. Are you sure you don't want to use that original motor? As long as it has good even compression, you could get it running easy! It would make the whole project. Again JMHO. Great boat and project, stick with it!
 
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