16' canoe stringers resin fiberglass

norlan

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Will post pictures tomorrow
1983 16 feet canoe with like 5 stringers, so one of the stringers were badly cracked and i decided to cut off to replace it and there was barely any wood left inside only dark dirt and empty space. I only cut off the top of it and lt was left with the same molding it had in it, so i cut off a piece of wood, place it inside of it and added a layer of fiberglass in 3 pieces followed by some nicer thicker fiberglass layer. today after 3 days i started washing the inside and the stringer got full of water inside of it and it leaks right back out through it. obviously, i don't know much about fiberglassing but i wonder what its wrong, i thought water was not supposed to filter through the resin or the resin i used is bad quality and didn't seal correctly ?

i know the inside of the stringer is not completely tight on the inside and there's an air bubble in it when i lay the fiber and it doesn't look nice either but i look forward to fix this leak problem
 

mickyryan

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picture might help , also did you do more then one layer?
grats on first post and welcome:0
 

norlan

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picture might help , also did you do more then one layer?
grats on first post and welcome:0
i would like to know if someone can identify that i did anything wrong, is resin supposed to be waterproof ?
 

mickyryan

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hmm not from those pics but I would say if water is seaping through , you don't have a good seal with the fiberglass and resin presently applied , put more on and from underneath as well sand area and repair it properly on outside as well as inside and should be fine.
 

norlan

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hmm not from those pics but I would say if water is seaping through , you don't have a good seal with the fiberglass and resin presently applied , put more on and from underneath as well sand area and repair it properly on outside as well as inside and should be fine.

i used the same mold it had in there, i put a piece of 2x1 pine wood in there is that okay or I'm supposed to use plywood instead

print screen windows
 
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Woodonglass

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Resin IS waterproof. If water is still seeping in then you need to check the outside of the hull as well. Did you grind/sand the inside down to smooth fresh glass prior to applying the resin and cloth??
 

ondarvr

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In the pic it looks like there are many places for water to get through the laminate.
 
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jbcurt00

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Doesnt look like the hull got ground before new fiberglass and resin was used, so the stringer sides probably wasnt either.

Did you grind (prep) the hull inside and out for the transom repair? It doesnt look like it was.....

If there was hull damage on the exterior, even what looks like minor cracking might let in quite a bit of water under pressure. The hull is displacing water when its IN the water, creating pressure against your repaired areas.
 

norlan

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Doesnt look like the hull got ground before new fiberglass and resin was used, so the stringer sides probably wasnt either.

Did you grind (prep) the hull inside and out for the transom repair? It doesnt look like it was.....

If there was hull damage on the exterior, even what looks like minor cracking might let in quite a bit of water under pressure. The hull is displacing water when its IN the water, creating pressure against your repaired areas.
First i want to say I just bought 1 quart 3m bondo resin at homedepot, not exactly sure the quality but probably better than the one I already used, I hope.

1. Yes i did grind and prep the inside hull exactly there where i apply the cloth.

2. exterior it's in decent condition, i did some sanding, prime and soon will do the painting so no problem there yet as far as I'm concerned.

3.I will cut and grind all of that except the back transom which i want to sand and apply another layer of cloth with the new 3m resin.

4. The stringers are there for supporting in strengthening the canoe right?, so every single one of the 5 stringers are slightly cracked somewhere in the corners and i believe water might be seeping through them,and between the stringers and the keel there's a separate extra layer of fiber and i will check on that cause i believe water is running through the keel and in between the stringers and the stringers wood might rot with no wood left in it like the one i cut.

I really didn't want to mess too much cutting every stringer since I didn't know much what i was getting into and i only cut open that specific one because it was badly cracked and softly. Also, i don't want to make the canoe too heavy as i will be carrying it myself on top of the car and it is already 100 lbs probably more after i finish painting it.

after grind/sanding for cleaning before applying resin with Mineral spirits will do ? or lacquer thinner is required? Thanks a lot
 
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norlan

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No Title

Found it, water runs through the keel. that's it
 

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Woodonglass

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I'd fill it with Thickened resin. Use sawdust from your sander to mix in with the resin to make it thick like peanut butter. Cut up some of the CSM and add it to the mix as well then fill the void with it. Let it cure for an hour and then re-install the cross member.
 

mickyryan

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does the keel have a hole somewhere? I would fix that first then worry about inside of boat
 

norlan

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I'd fill it with Thickened resin. Use sawdust from your sander to mix in with the resin to make it thick like peanut butter. Cut up some of the CSM and add it to the mix as well then fill the void with it. Let it cure for an hour and then re-install the cross member.
you refer to fill the whole stringer with a mix of resin+fiber dust instead of wood?. wouldn't that be a little too rigid and add much weight to it?
by the way what's the CSM.?
 

mickyryan

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oh and you saw bubbles or something?
I guess I'm not following where did the water go?
 

Woodonglass

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No I'm saying to fill the keel section with the thickened resin prior to installing the crossmember
 
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