Grinding hull for new stringers

[ezmobee]

Having that large of an access is unusual. If you want to reduce the size of it or replace it entirely and just have an access port, go right ahead. Only risk is if your tank goes bad and that's gonna suck regardless!

 

[tpenfield]

Wow . . you are quick with the saw

That boat looks like the more modern construction of a 2-piece clam shell. so, I am wondering if it is so, and perhaps separating the halves may be a better approach if you need to replace the stringers, etc.

:noidea:

 

[ImJohnnyKelley]

Wow . . you are quick with the saw

That boat looks like the more modern construction of a 2-piece clam shell. so, I am wondering if it is so, and perhaps separating the halves may be a better approach if you need to replace the stringers, etc.

:noidea:

How would I do that? Sounds like it would make a lot of it easier (wiring, livewell water lines).

 

[mickyryan]

remove the rub rail rubber behind that should be rivets drill them out and separate the two pieces
nm relooked at pic the screws on rub rail are exposed or rivets remove them then after you remove rub rail there should be more rivets behind that holding the two pieces together

 

[tpenfield]

One issue will be that you may wish that you did not cut the floor, if you are going to separate the boat halves.

 

[kcassells]

You can screw down some scab ply on top of the cut outs to resupport it if you're going to take the floor off. Below work is definitely going to be faster and easier.
Here's a good link; http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...2250-here-we-go-again?p=10310425#post10310425

 

[tpenfield]

You can screw down some scab ply on top of the cut outs to resupport it if you're going to take the floor off. Below work is definitely going to be faster and easier.
Here's a good link; http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...2250-here-we-go-again?p=10310425#post10310425

ahmincha 's boat was of the older design style, if I recall. The floor of the cockpit ran all the way to the hull and was bonded to it.

This boat looks different and the cockpit floor is part of the 'cap' and attaches to the hull at the rub rail. with these types of designs, some companies bond the underside of the cockpit floor to the stringer grid, but many do not. It just rests upon it.

 

[kcassells]

Yup, there is definitely a better example out there but I wanted him to get a look at techniques. I'm sure more precise pics with his boats needs will show up or he will search them out in "stickeys", or "search" words.

 

[ImJohnnyKelley]

Ok, I am understanding now. Yeah, I don't think it would work actually. That floor is definitely bonded to the honeycomb below it. Either way, the floor had a couple waves in it from he subfloor warping underneath it. So was going to replace it anyways.

 

[ahmincha]

The hatch was engineered from the factory so as a strength point of view I think its a non issue. And having access to the fuel tank below is priceless. and once you set it back in and use life caulk it will be water tight. JMHO

 

[ImJohnnyKelley]

I have decided to keep the hatch down the middle as it is. Just going to grind down the back and add new glass to the backside to add some strength, and going to add some sealant around the edge when installing to make it watertight. But decided keeping it will be worth it if I need to make any wiring runs, bilge runs, or work on the fuel cell.

So I haven't been able to do much. I busted my ankle on a kids toy (stuff is dangerous ) and haven't been able to get up into it. Hoping to make it back this week. Been spending a lot of time planning ahead and making choices. I know there are a lot of things I need to get fixed and done in the boat before glassing in a new deck. Things I want to install and wire in like drain lines for flush mount rod holders, docking lights wiring, and anything else that might be needed that will be much easier to do while the floor is gone. Would love to hear ideas of things that I may want to install or take care of before glassing in the deck.

Excited to get going, but just thought I would ask for tips, advice, or things that you guys put in your boats before sealing up the floor. Also things you wish you had put in. Just trying to get the plan ready before it is too late.

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I don't have a fishing boat but I will be adding a wiring chase from the helm to the port side because I know whatever wire I pull over there isn't enough. I always end up thinking of something later....lol. My boat is a little easier to add things after the floor goes in. Sooooo I got nothing for ya. But I'm tagging along anyway.

 

[mickyryan]

run you a conduit to bow so if you ever need to add anything up there you have a way of getting more wire to it.
plan your speakers and run 1/2" pvc to each one to make it easier to pull wires later if one goes bad.
same thing with any lighting you might want to add down the line its always nice to have a chase to pull thru then trying to snake another wire . might even be able to use 1/4" tubing if you can find any that's pvc and you can heat with a heat gun to bend.

 

[ImJohnnyKelley]

Okay, bout to start getting my resin for stringers and deck. The plan is epoxy for stingers and polyester for the deck. Any reason I should switch that or is my plan the right one?

 

[kcassells]

Probably want to stick wit 1 or da utter. Will be to many areas that are related in so far as poly and EEEEpoxy don't bond well. Epoxy to poly but mot poly to EEEEpoxy.
JMHO.
KC

 

[ondarvr]

Pick one resin and go with it.

 

[ImJohnnyKelley]

Where does everyone buy their resin and fiberglass from? Seeing a wide variety of prices online. Wondering if some are better than others. Where is the best place to buy for a guy on a budget?

 

[gm280]

Where does everyone buy their resin and fiberglass from? Seeing a wide variety of prices online. Wondering if some are better than others. Where is the best place to buy for a guy on a budget?

IJK, I personally would just use Polyester Resin for everything and then you don't have to worry about things being compatible. I used 435 laminating resins from U S Composites out of Florida. And I buy it in five gallon buckets at a time. It comes with the MEKP as well. In fact my first purchase I bought 3 five gallon buckets from them. I also bought all the CSM (Chopped Strand Matt), 1708 woven fiberglass material, Cabosil, 1/4" Chopped Fiberglass Strands, Glass Bubbles and Liquid Pigment Resin Coloring from them as well. I actually like dealing with them. JMHO

 

[Baylinerchuck]

I think we are all on a budget....I think its called best quality build for the least dough. Buying in bulk is almost always cheaper. I like USC as well for the 5 gallon quantities.

 

[Woodonglass]

Your boat is made from Poly soooo...Poly would be the resin of choice for me!!!