1989 Trophy 170 Budget Build

jbcurt00

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You gave the transom plywood a good 2nd soaking of PMS?

Uh?

Otherwise nice progress. Fairly sure you wont regret using Nautolex on the deck (floor), except when ya actually gotta pay for it. Then paint the gunwales.....
 

Patfromny

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Dec 2, 2012
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You gave the transom plywood a good 2nd soaking of PMS?

Uh?

Otherwise nice progress. Fairly sure you wont regret using Nautolex on the deck (floor), except when ya actually gotta pay for it. Then paint the gunwales.....

I agree with you JB. Shop around for the nautolex. I found it pretty cheap but I guess I erased the link. Sorry.

JB, PMS is like old timers with attitude. It is a very aggressive compound that is super hard to work with. The slightest misstep and it kicks off. You also do not want to be in the same room with this stuff until after it cures.
(sorry if I have offended anyone. My sole intention was the cheap laugh). I actually took it as old timers that he mistakenly called poor man's sealer...PMS.
 

Teamster

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I'd keep the livewell,....

I use mine to store stuff in when I'm not using it for fish,..
 

axlr8

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Nov 12, 2013
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YES I indeed use PMS as poor mans sealer... I can see where that was mistaken..... :facepalm:

After thinking on it overnight, Im thinking that keeping the livewell is something that wouldnt hurt me. It is not terribly huge, but it will be more beneficial to have one, rather than to not have one.

Im going to shop around some for the Nautolex and see what I can come up with for pricing. Ideally, I want something that is durable, easily cleaned, and holds up to whatever I throw at it... And this has proved to be the answer to that.

On a different note, I found out that the original floor in the boat was actually constructed with 3/4"ply so I dont have to worry about changing the console height or anything of that sort, which is a good thing in my eyes, I will probably start to tear up the floor after I get the transom pitting taken care of and resolved to my liking.
 

axlr8

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I brought one of the plastic console covers to school with me so I could repair some cracks and hopefully clean them up and make them look nice... Looks like I am going to have to either source new ones or make my own.... The passenger side is so beat up and cracked that it would take me too long to repair it and even then, it may not hold up to use.

I am thinking I may get creative with some thin steel and try to make my own rendition close to the stock covers.
 

axlr8

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OK guys, I am to the point where I want to start ordering hardware and rivets so I can slowly assemble the boat when the opportunity arises. Where do you get your rivets? I measured the holes as 13/64" but I am thinking that they are just 3/16" Rivets... Any insight???

I would rather not try to buy 3 different types and sizes of each rivet.

I have an air riveter, and will be buying rivet tools for my air chisel as well.

Now all I need to get is the rivets themselves!
 

Watermann

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Are you needing blind rivets for decking? If so you'll need large flange rivets. 3/16 dia is the most common size used, that and 5/32 in some cases. Grip range depends on thickness of the material.

I buy my rivets at the link below, the shipping seems a bit much but you get a ton of rivets for not much coin. 100 sounds like a lot but you'll be surprised how quickly they go. http://rivetsonline.com/rivets-en/bl...dome-head.html
 

Baylinerchuck

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Fastenal would have them and you wouldn't need to pay shipping if you have one local. Most hardware stores would carry aluminum rivets I would think?
 

jbcurt00

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Closed end blind rivets arent your typical hardware store rivet. Be sure to get aluminum mandrel, aluminum closed end blinds.
 

Pusher

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Closed end blind rivets arent your typical hardware store rivet. Be sure to get aluminum mandrel, aluminum closed end blinds.

Ditto. I tried finding solid aluminum rivets at Fastenal and other large suppliers. All I found were shovel rivets which I think we're steel cause they were some kind of stout! I have an actual rivet gun and they weren't having it!!!

I ended up online.
 

axlr8

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I know that I need atleast 5 different types of rivets. Large and small flange blinds, solids, and the closed end for the splashwell.

Im just curious if I need to step up my rivet size after drilling the previous ones out.

I assumed they were 3/16 to start with, but now the holes can snugly fit a 13/64" bit inside.. Or was that the original hole that was factory drilled???

If I order a solid rivet kit for my air hammer, can I just use a steel bucking bar behind them or do I need something special?
 

Watermann

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3/16" dia rivets are pretty standard, never heard of a 13/64.

I have a 3/16" steel brazier head rivet set for my air hammer and a steel bucking bar. Don't worry about using steel on AL, there's a few OCD guys that are over the top on steel around AL that are lurking about but all your drill bits are probably steel too. Just don't attach or leave anything steel in your boat for 40 years and it won't ever become a problem.
 

Pusher

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If you have solid bar stock laying around you can grind that down. Just make sure you polish it free of rust... OCD thing ;-)

It might even be cheaper to get the body kit at harbor freight since they have bars in them.
 

axlr8

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This right here is the answer I was looking for "3/16" dia rivets are pretty standard, never heard of a 13/64" Thanks Watermann!

As far as the bucking bar, I turned down a chunk of steel shaft that I used earlier on the transom skin to smooth some dents, I was just curious if that could be used for setting the rivets as well.

I am going to order a few varieties and start getting some of this boat re-assembled.


On a side note, I attended the Minneapolis, MN boat show for a short while this weekend to hopefully find some things that I'd like to incorporate into my build, and find some opinions on the Nautolex. I was blown away at some of the floating houses they had there... I walked through a $900,000 cruiser.... (never happening in my life....) I was kind of dissappointed at the lack of individual vendors, but it was still very impressive! I came to the conclusion that I will be using the sandstone nautolex for my boat flooring, it is just so highly liked by everyone I ask, it is hard to say no to it...
 

axlr8

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Nov 12, 2013
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Are you needing blind rivets for decking? If so you'll need large flange rivets. 3/16 dia is the most common size used, that and 5/32 in some cases. Grip range depends on thickness of the material.

I buy my rivets at the link below, the shipping seems a bit much but you get a ton of rivets for not much coin. 100 sounds like a lot but you'll be surprised how quickly they go. http://rivetsonline.com/rivets-en/bl...dome-head.html

Thanks for the link! I picked up a few different lenghts in a few different varieties, turns out if you are ordering $75 or more, you get free shipping! For 600 assorted rivets I had a order just over $80. Im pleased!
 

axlr8

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Nov 12, 2013
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100
I plan to start doing some paint prep this weekend on both the console skins and the gunnels. I am looking for some critique on my ideal method of painting them.

For the console skins, which are previously painted very nicely, I plan to:

1: Scuff the existing paint, sand with a 120 grit on my DA, then hit it a few times more with 160 on the DA, ending up with 220 on the DA.
2: After sanding, a wipe down with some Acetone, to take off any residue or dust left from sanding.
3: Since there will be paint remaining on the console, I plan to be able to jump right into spraying the new paint on the consoles with a spray gun.
4: After a few light coats with the gun, I will let it tack up and then slowly get to full coverage, while learning how the paint likes to be sprayed.
5: Hang the skins in front of the heater to help cure the paint.

Now for what I have came up with for the gunnels:

Since posting about the gunnels earlier, I have scraped them with a sharpened 2" scraper to get the remaining carpet and adhesive to come off. This worked well, but I did not remove ALL of the adhesive, as the scraper wouldt allow me to do so. I plan to use some sort of stripper to remove all of the remaining adhesive and then I can start from scratch. BUT I had thought of seeing if the paint would stick well to the adhesive that is still on the gunnels, as it is adhered VERY well... Thoughts???

With starting from scratch, bare metal, I have come up with the following:

1: Wipe down with acetone, fill any voids or damaged areas (Previous owners attachment holes), finish the repairs, and wipe those down with acetone as well.
2: Light spraying of the SE spray can primer. (Can I buy this in quarts???) Followed with multiple light coats of the standard gray primer.
3: Start laying down the base coat of gunnel paint, thin coat, let tack, thin coat, and let tack, progressively until fully covered.
4: Let sit for 2 days in heated shop, (come back and rough up paint with 160?), in order to prep for final coat and texturing beads.
5: lay on Nice coat of top coat, sprinkle with texture beads, and put final light coat on top of beads, add remaining beads over that.
6: Let dry for a school week and come back and start re-assembly of rub rail & gunnel accessories.

I plan to use these materials:

Rustoleum Professional Enamel (Spray gun) in Gloss Sand-Color Coat for everything
Majic Self Etching Primer (spray can)
Rustoleum Gray Primer (Spray gun)
For any holes that need patching, I plan to use JB weld to fill them with a backing plate of some sort.
Non decided on what anti-skid grit to use yet. (All the options I have found are pretty pricy...)

If you see something that doesnt make sense or seems wrong, please let me know. This will be the first time I am painting something of this scale, and I do not really want to have to strip paint off something I freshly painted.

Thanks for the help so far guys! I appreciate it all!
 

Pusher

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You might try 220 followed by 320 and see if that works. 160 on fresh paint might cut too much. It may not... just a thought.

If you're using a hook and loop DA sander you can get a better deal on sanding pads online. I just ordered 500 and 1000 grit last week because the big box stores only carried 220 and heavier.
 

axlr8

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Nov 12, 2013
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You might try 220 followed by 320 and see if that works. 160 on fresh paint might cut too much. It may not... just a thought.

If you're using a hook and loop DA sander you can get a better deal on sanding pads online. I just ordered 500 and 1000 grit last week because the big box stores only carried 220 and heavier.

Thanks for the tips, I'll pick up some finer pads for the fresh paint.

And Im using the 6" adhesive pads on my old porter cable sander, but looking at picking up a newer bosch 6" hook and loop unit as my old one is getting tired and pretty unreliable. Ill have to price them out online somewhere, I know the stores are starting to cut back on the adhesive ones that I usually use, I stocked up a few years back. Hard to find them now in a good variety.
 
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