Cracked and soaked fiberglass motor mounts on Sea Ray 200cc

ripazka

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I move to here with my project, I like this forum better than the previous one. Just to get you guys going, I bought '90 Sea Ray few months ago. The motor is not original for this hull. The hull has serious rot damage and I need to do full restoration. In August I though I can just renew the motor mounts but I guess as many of you, I have to renew the deck, transom and stringers.

August 2016 (at this point I havent seen any youtube videos like FriscoBoater other ppl have):

"Hello. I've read many posts about this same problem but I couldn't find any that has the same motor tower structure than my Sea Ray 200cc has.

I have several cracks on both motor towers (see pictures). The motor tower has cracked on the edges of the glassing and I am pretty sure the reason for this is freezing.

The root problem is most likely poor sealing work (see the poor white sealing) done on old bilge pump's holes (when it got removed). Water got in from the holes and soaked all the wooden parts. I know the new bilge pump is not older than from 2010, however 6 years is quite a long time for a wood not to rot, don't you think.

My findings so far:
Motor mounts/towers are completely soaked, however they are not rotten yet. I could not press my screwdriver into the wood at all (or hardly). Wood under the poorly sealed part is worse (stringer), but it is not completely rotten yet (most likely). The situation of the transom I don't know yet, that information will follow in two months.
I could not find any cracks on transom or other parts of the hull (under or top), all the cracks are on the motor mount structure.

My plans to fix the problem:
My plan was to pull my boat out of the water, make holes around the transom and stringer and see what is in there.

IF I don't find completely rotten transom/stringers: I will enlarge the holes and dry the wooden parts with warm air blower for few weeks and then reglass everything. Do you recommend to soak the dried wood with epoxy resin or similar? This structure does not have same kind of problems with anchoring the "base bolt" to wood (as the other posts I could find), but of course the rotten wood is not as strong as the healthy wood.

IF I find that the stringer and/or transom is rotten: I have to pull up the engine, cut the rear section open and replace the rotten parts and reglass everything.

How does that sound? Any recommendations for me? Thank you a lot in advance."

- Risto from Finland
 
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ripazka

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At this point I know what is ahead (September / October):

"My hull is Sea Ray 200 Cuddy Cabin from '90. Its 21 feet long and 7ft 8" wide. I think the badly fixed white part is something else than old bilge pump. Old collision?


My hull has been soaking water during the years because previous owners didn't care that the old canopy was not water proof and some of the holes for the hand rails were leaking water in etc. etc. Mechanics are in great order (not original) and the hull itself is in great shape for 26 y old boat, I think.

My hull is on the trailer. Fixed on 7 rolls and 4 side supports. I noticed some change on the hull when we lifted the motor up (don't know if I have to react to this or not yet). Otherwise I have not noticed any biggies yet. I will keep the cap on during the restaration. I hope it is enough.

When the motor was lifted out the whole boat squeezed in a bit. I noticed that the side rolls were not against the hull anymore.

Im pretty sure that the stringers were gone long ago and the motor was making the hull wider because the hull couldnt last the weight of the motor without stringers widewise (however you call them in English) because they were rotten and one of them were cut away in the past (for what reason??? I do not know). But Im not an expert, just making assumptions.


First and last roll is not touching the bottom of the hull anymore (half inch gap between the hull and the roll). the rolls are in line. Any ideas? Should I manipulate the frame till the hull touches all the rolls? or just build new stringers? Everything changes a bit anyway when I install the 400 pounds motor, right?"


This is where I am at the moment (check Google Drive link) below. I post my photos to Drive to keep them organized.
 
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DeepBlue2010

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Encapsulated wood will not dry out no matter what you do. Short of removing the majority of the fiberglass that encapsulate the wood, you can't provide enough ventilation for the moisture to escape and if you do, you are very very close to replacing the wood any way so what is the point.

bite the bullet and plan on full restoration. Boats of this vintage without the hull being compromised are notorious for developing rot. The chances for this boat to dodge that bullet is very slim. In any event, this is just a probability talk. Drill the inspection holes and core sample the boat... post a lot of pictures so we can see what you see.


Edit....

I replied to your first thread. Never mind.
 

DeepBlue2010

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I think you need to watch Frisco series, his boat is very close to your and I think you will find answers to many of your questions there.
 

ripazka

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Thanks. I've watched them all, some of them few times. Great stuff for me indeed.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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I
My findings so far:
Motor mounts/towers are completely soaked, however they are not rotten yet. I could not press my screwdriver into the wood at all (or hardly). Wood under the poorly sealed part is worse (stringer), but it is not completely rotten yet (most likely). The situation of the transom I don't know yet, that information will follow in two months.[/FONT][/COLOR]


use the old wet wood for a template. you will be cutting out the motor mounts. Also plan on the stringers they were connected to, the foam floatation boxes, at least one bulkhead and probably the transom.

as DeepBlue mentioned, it wont ever dry out.
 

Woodonglass

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Your Google Drive link won't allow us to view your pics. Never used it so I can't direct you on what to do.
 

DeepBlue2010

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Wood, the link is working. Just don't click in the hyperlink (the text) as this will take you to your own google drive (if you are logged in to a google account). Instead click on the icon above the hyperlink.
 

Scott Danforth

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WOG, link does work, however a bit difficult to navigate (i disslike Google drive)
However based on the rot in some of the pics, the boat will need a full gut and restoration
 

ripazka

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Scott, Ill try to attach the pics to forum from now on. As you can see from my pics, I already know that I have to do the full restoration (in August I though its just the motor mounts) Still have transom to do and then grinding starts.
 

ripazka

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So I made some kind of list what I need. Comments?

1708 -> 300 square feet
2 oz mat -> 600 square feet
ISO-NPG polyresin -> 110 pounds (7 gallons? If density is 17oz/gallon).
Topcoat -> 4 gallons
PU adhesive -> 6 tubes to start with
Chopped fibers -> 15 pounds
Trixotrophypowder -> 2 gallons
Acetone -> 2 gallons to start with

+ all the buckets, rollers, protective equipment, stirrers etc.
 
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ripazka

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Revision 2 (recalculated with the "Let's make this fiberglass information thread"):

So I made some kind of list what I need. Comments?

If I go to Polyresin:

1708 -> 300 square feet
2 oz mat -> 900 square feet (few dollars more than 500 square feet)
ISO-NPG polyresin -> 20 gallons
Topcoat -> 4 gallons
PU adhesive -> 6 tubes to start with
Chopped fibers -> 15 pounds
Trixotrophypowder -> 2 gallons
Acetone -> 2 gallons to start with

+ all the buckets, rollers, protective equipment, stirrers etc.


For how long polyresin will form vapors aggressively when applied to boat? This is very important because I am working during winter time (I cant keep the door open all the time, otherwise the temp drops too much). I may keep the door open for some periods but not all the time. I have to use Epoxy if this is going to be problem. I can control temperature in the garage and I can try to work outside the coldest days of winter, however this is going to affect to my work. This is critical for me and might drive me to choose Epoxy.


If I go to Epoxy (+300 dollars):

17 oz biaxial -> 1000 square feet
Epoxy resin -> 20 gallons
Paint (or topcoat?) -> 4 gallons
PU adhesive -> 6 tubes to start with
Trixotrophypowder -> 2 gallons

+ all the buckets, rollers, protective equipment, stirrers etc.


Thank you again!
 
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ripazka

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Uhmmm I believe your list is off. Take a look at this...


Thanks again WOG. So I over estimated the need of fiberglass.

If I may ask, what do you think about the hull's deformation? When we pulled up the motor, rear and front of the boat kind of lifted up (less than half inch) and the sides squeezed in (inch or so). Should I find the point where the bottom is straight (with laser for an example) and after that start doing the new stringers? I would say yes, but as I said previously Im not sure how the hull acts when the motor is placed back on the boat.



-Risto
 

Woodonglass

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If you did all the before measurements at multiple points. then I'd recommend using braces, straps etc...to get the hull back to it's original dimensions and then brace her well, prior to the stringer, motormount, and transom installation.
 

ripazka

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If you did all the before measurements at multiple points. then I'd recommend using braces, straps etc...to get the hull back to it's original dimensions and then brace her well, prior to the stringer, motormount, and transom installation.

You're the best, thanks! Ill try to do that. Im going to squeeze the hull back to original measurements and see if the hull finds its previous shape. Its not that much off but I would like to get it right. Ill post pics later.
 

ripazka

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You're the best, thanks! Ill try to do that. Im going to squeeze the hull back to original measurements and see if the hull finds its previous shape. Its not that much off but I would like to get it right. Ill post pics later.

I found the problem. I had to push the boat backwards when we lifted the boat up. So the front roll is not touching because the nose is lifting up already at that point. Thats why the side rolls were also at wrong position. I measured the hull and there is no change. A bit stupid mistake but what a relief.
 

Woodonglass

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I'd recommend you take the time to brace the hull and get it as stable as possible. Having it sit on the rollers during restoration is not optimal?
 
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