ripazka
Petty Officer 1st Class
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2016
- Messages
- 246
I move to here with my project, I like this forum better than the previous one. Just to get you guys going, I bought '90 Sea Ray few months ago. The motor is not original for this hull. The hull has serious rot damage and I need to do full restoration. In August I though I can just renew the motor mounts but I guess as many of you, I have to renew the deck, transom and stringers.
August 2016 (at this point I havent seen any youtube videos like FriscoBoater other ppl have):
"Hello. I've read many posts about this same problem but I couldn't find any that has the same motor tower structure than my Sea Ray 200cc has.
I have several cracks on both motor towers (see pictures). The motor tower has cracked on the edges of the glassing and I am pretty sure the reason for this is freezing.
The root problem is most likely poor sealing work (see the poor white sealing) done on old bilge pump's holes (when it got removed). Water got in from the holes and soaked all the wooden parts. I know the new bilge pump is not older than from 2010, however 6 years is quite a long time for a wood not to rot, don't you think.
My findings so far:
Motor mounts/towers are completely soaked, however they are not rotten yet. I could not press my screwdriver into the wood at all (or hardly). Wood under the poorly sealed part is worse (stringer), but it is not completely rotten yet (most likely). The situation of the transom I don't know yet, that information will follow in two months.
I could not find any cracks on transom or other parts of the hull (under or top), all the cracks are on the motor mount structure.
My plans to fix the problem:
My plan was to pull my boat out of the water, make holes around the transom and stringer and see what is in there.
IF I don't find completely rotten transom/stringers: I will enlarge the holes and dry the wooden parts with warm air blower for few weeks and then reglass everything. Do you recommend to soak the dried wood with epoxy resin or similar? This structure does not have same kind of problems with anchoring the "base bolt" to wood (as the other posts I could find), but of course the rotten wood is not as strong as the healthy wood.
IF I find that the stringer and/or transom is rotten: I have to pull up the engine, cut the rear section open and replace the rotten parts and reglass everything.
How does that sound? Any recommendations for me? Thank you a lot in advance."
- Risto from Finland
August 2016 (at this point I havent seen any youtube videos like FriscoBoater other ppl have):
"Hello. I've read many posts about this same problem but I couldn't find any that has the same motor tower structure than my Sea Ray 200cc has.
I have several cracks on both motor towers (see pictures). The motor tower has cracked on the edges of the glassing and I am pretty sure the reason for this is freezing.
The root problem is most likely poor sealing work (see the poor white sealing) done on old bilge pump's holes (when it got removed). Water got in from the holes and soaked all the wooden parts. I know the new bilge pump is not older than from 2010, however 6 years is quite a long time for a wood not to rot, don't you think.
My findings so far:
Motor mounts/towers are completely soaked, however they are not rotten yet. I could not press my screwdriver into the wood at all (or hardly). Wood under the poorly sealed part is worse (stringer), but it is not completely rotten yet (most likely). The situation of the transom I don't know yet, that information will follow in two months.
I could not find any cracks on transom or other parts of the hull (under or top), all the cracks are on the motor mount structure.
My plans to fix the problem:
My plan was to pull my boat out of the water, make holes around the transom and stringer and see what is in there.
IF I don't find completely rotten transom/stringers: I will enlarge the holes and dry the wooden parts with warm air blower for few weeks and then reglass everything. Do you recommend to soak the dried wood with epoxy resin or similar? This structure does not have same kind of problems with anchoring the "base bolt" to wood (as the other posts I could find), but of course the rotten wood is not as strong as the healthy wood.
IF I find that the stringer and/or transom is rotten: I have to pull up the engine, cut the rear section open and replace the rotten parts and reglass everything.
How does that sound? Any recommendations for me? Thank you a lot in advance."
- Risto from Finland
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