My first boat restoration

savetexomabeaches

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 4, 2013
Messages
420
The old power pilot -- shift, then throttle lol - Those remind me of using a lawn mower's throttle control
 

jeff_nerdin

Cadet
Joined
Oct 9, 2016
Messages
14
RCNelson You seem to be getting a lot more interest and feedback on your posts than I've gotten on mine. What is your secret to getting people to answer questions and give tips and feedback? Keep up the good work. BTW - What are they talking about when they refer to taking the cap off? Your boat doesn't look like it has a cap like some of the speed boats I've seen people working on where they take the top off. I'm not even sure if it's possible to take the top off the front of my 1974 Sea Ray 220. If it is, then I'd be interested in considering it. Keep up the good work.
 

RCNelson

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Joined
Oct 23, 2016
Messages
26
RCNelson You seem to be getting a lot more interest and feedback on your posts than I've gotten on mine. What is your secret to getting people to answer questions and give tips and feedback? Keep up the good work. BTW - What are they talking about when they refer to taking the cap off? Your boat doesn't look like it has a cap like some of the speed boats I've seen people working on where they take the top off. I'm not even sure if it's possible to take the top off the front of my 1974 Sea Ray 220. If it is, then I'd be interested in considering it. Keep up the good work.


The knowledgable guys here probably feel sorry for my ignorance in boat retoration, along with the sad shape of my boat. Lol.
If you pull the rubber out of the rub rail, there will be screws or rivets underneath. Take out these screws or rivets and the top of the boat can be lifted up. It will separate at the rub rail. It sounds easy, but I was hoping not to have to do it.
 
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jeff_nerdin

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Joined
Oct 9, 2016
Messages
14
Thanks for the decapitation guidance. I'm hoping this won't be necessary on my boat, but it remains to be seen.
 

RCNelson

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Joined
Oct 23, 2016
Messages
26
I am getting ready to "de-cap" my boat. Can anyone give me a rough idea of what the cap would weigh? It is a 17 foot, open bow fiberglass Cavalier Sunray.
Thanks
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
And... Take a LOT of measurements so you can ensure when you replace the stringers and deck it's all the same as it was before.
 

RCNelson

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Joined
Oct 23, 2016
Messages
26
And... Take a LOT of measurements so you can ensure when you replace the stringers and deck it's all the same as it was before.


Thanks for the advice Wood! I have taken measurements everywhere. I plan on replacing one stringer at a time and measuring each time, before I cut a stringer and after it is in place.
 

RCNelson

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Joined
Oct 23, 2016
Messages
26
I am thinking of using my two hydraulic engine lifts to lift and spin the hull upside down. I am thinking of hooking one to the U hook that is on the bow and the other to a pipe that I have placed through the two U hooks on the transom. I will build some type of swivel mechanism for each lift that will allow me to swivel the boat after I have lifted it. Are these three points sturdy enough to support the weight of the boat without the cap installed? I have seen an apparatus called the "Capsizer 8000", which is a commercial hoist for spinning the hulls upside, and they seem to be attached to these three points. They even spin the boat with the cap and motor installed. See the link below:

http://www.capsizer.com/
 

Baylinerchuck

Commander
Joined
Jul 29, 2016
Messages
2,726
I am measuring height of the stringers in several locations as well as the bulk heads. I retained as many of the woods parts as possible to use as patterns to make the new ones.
 

savetexomabeaches

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 4, 2013
Messages
420
Also instead of removing the entire thing and tossing it somewhere, have you thought about just sliding it forward?

With a rotted transom, you most likely will just rip the U hooks out of the boat if you try to support it that way

When you start cutting and removing stuff, especially the cap, the boat is going to want to "stretch" out at the top on the sides. You'll want to measure how wide it is with the cap on and try to brace the sides so when you put new in and fiberglass it, it will be in the right position.

Here's a good thread for ya to look over -- http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...-pics?t=234392
 
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RCNelson

Cadet
Joined
Oct 23, 2016
Messages
26
Also instead of removing the entire thing and tossing it somewhere, have you thought about just sliding it forward?

With a rotted transom, you most likely will just rip the U hooks out of the boat if you try to support it that way

When you start cutting and removing stuff, especially the cap, the boat is going to want to "stretch" out at the top on the sides. You'll want to measure how wide it is with the cap on and try to brace the sides so when you put new in and fiberglass it, it will be in the right position.

Here's a good thread for ya to look over -- http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...-pics?t=234392


Thanks for the input STB. I plan on removing the cap, replacing the transom and the stringers (one at a time), finishing all the fiberglass work and then reinstall the cap. It is at that point that I would like to turn the boat over to fix the chips in the hull and then paint it. So, when I flip the boat, all the wood will be new.
 
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