Stringer Repair 79'' Bell Boy

aerojake

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Joined
Mar 22, 2014
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6
Hi Guys,
I have a stringer and floor repair to do in my 79 15ft Bell Boy opencab, Its only the mid section in the middle stringer and starboard stringer that is bad only about 27'' of each are rotted and the port side stringer is rotted in the mid section of the same size as the other stringers and also about 15" from the transom join, I am looking for the easiest way to replace/repair the stringers or my other thought was to install 2 new stringers on either side of the current stringers with thickened epoxy with the material made of 0.4" x 5" marine ply (which is half the thickness of the current stringers) and then glass over them with 5 layers of 12oz plain weave cloth, would this work ? I am trying to avoid digging out the old stringers with most of the wood still being fine it would be very time consuming getting them out along with the joining glue and getting the surface prepped for new stringers. or is there any other way I could go about it ?

Thanks in advance.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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welcome aboard.

the easiest way is to actually cut out the floor, document the existing stringers, cut them out, grind the glass down and start fresh. believe me, it seams like the hardest method, it is actually the easiest and best.

at the top of the boat restoration forum are the DIY stickies. in the 3rd sticky is a bunch of links. read 14, then 2, 3, 4a and 4b in that order.
 

aerojake

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Joined
Mar 22, 2014
Messages
6
Yeah thanks guys, I am just being lazy haha Thanks for the links Scott I will be doing some reading and then do it the proper way better doing it right the first time than ripping it all up down the track just to do it the way I should have first time round.
I am ordering 20lt of vinyl-ester and a 50x1m roll of 12oz plain weave cloth do you think this will be enough for the stringers one layer on the inner hull and the 2 layers either side of the floor plus tabbing ? The boat is 4.5m by 1.8m the stringers are 3m long and the floor area is 4.2m by 1.8m .
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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dont order a single thing until you read the stickies

I suggest standard poly (not VE), 1.5 oz CSM and 1708. again, read the stickies.

you are going to need between 10 and 15 gallons of resin, about 40 meters of 1.5 oz CSM and about 40 meters of 1708 biax and about 4 gallons of expanding foam and about 2 gallons of gel, a few quarts of cabosil and milled fibers

if you want, 20 meters of cloth for the final layer

again, read the stickies
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Well I'll say this. IF, BIG IF, the remaining portions of the stringers are A-OK then it's perfectly acceptable to "Scab In" the removed sections and then sister them to the remaining good sections. One of best restoration guru's (andgott) had some great pictures of how he did just that but...All the pics in those threads are no longer showing due to updates to the forum and breaking links. I must emphasize again that the remaining parts of the stringers MUST be 100% free of any water penetration or rot. This is why most people choose to replace them in total since they're already there. It takes a bit more time and expense but KNOWING that they are 100% sound and the peace of mind is worth the added work and money.;)
 

Pusher

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Sep 2, 2014
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1,273
You could upgrade to a webcore hull from bell boy for practically free if you already have the trailer and cruise CL long enough. Depending on trailer, you might even be able to gain a couple feet. They're pretty cheap around me anyway but I live close to the old manufacturing grounds.

For the price of materials to do the floors and stringers in a 15' boat you might also be able to get an aluminum boat. And sell your trailer for $700 after running it to the dump.

I did a new floor in my 17' Bell Boy with a webcore (no stringer work) and it's up there with one of the worst jobs I've done. I'd never do it for a 15' boat. I fish though and value floor space.

Are you doing this for fun, learning, the design of the hull or for utility?

Sometimes I come across the wrong way over the web but I'd consider your reasoning before starting a full rebuild.

Many on here have done it to smaller boats and their reasons weren't utility... That's just where I'm coming from.
 

aerojake

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Mar 22, 2014
Messages
6
Hi Pusher i'm doing it for experience and to know once its all done properly ill have a boat to last me a long time the hull suits my needs very well for both bay fishing and river fishing.

The webcore would be out of question for me as im in the bottom end of Australia shipping cost would be crazy. I brought the boat for a bargain price so im prepared to do the work and cost involved in the end ill have a new boat with a rebuilt 50hp for under $2000 so ill be happy.

Today i did make the ugly discovery of finding rot in the lower transom so I started cutting the cap today the lips being on both the hull and cap makes it harder than just the shoe box type cap over hull but im getting there ok its just the cap at the transom that has me stuck atm im not sure whether I should cut around the splashwell from the inside or just keep cutting the cap across the transom just above the hull to separate it ? its a fair bit more work but atleast ill have alot more room to do the floor and stringers now lol
 

gm280

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Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,590
Hi Pusher i'm doing it for experience and to know once its all done properly ill have a boat to last me a long time the hull suits my needs very well for both bay fishing and river fishing.

The webcore would be out of question for me as im in the bottom end of Australia shipping cost would be crazy. I brought the boat for a bargain price so im prepared to do the work and cost involved in the end ill have a new boat with a rebuilt 50hp for under $2000 so ill be happy.

Today i did make the ugly discovery of finding rot in the lower transom so I started cutting the cap today the lips being on both the hull and cap makes it harder than just the shoe box type cap over hull but im getting there ok its just the cap at the transom that has me stuck atm im not sure whether I should cut around the splashwell from the inside or just keep cutting the cap across the transom just above the hull to separate it ? its a fair bit more work but atleast ill have alot more room to do the floor and stringers now lol

Well that is sad news but good news at the same time. Usually when you find rot in stringers, there is rot in the transom as well, and of course the floor too. So once you refurbish this hull, you will have the equivalent of a new boat. Hang with it and post your progress pictures. We do love pictures on these forums. :thumb:
 

Pusher

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Hi Pusher i'm doing it for experience and to know once its all done properly ill have a boat to last me a long time the hull suits my needs very well for both bay fishing and river fishing.

The webcore would be out of question for me as im in the bottom end of Australia shipping cost would be crazy. I brought the boat for a bargain price so im prepared to do the work and cost involved in the end ill have a new boat with a rebuilt 50hp for under $2000 so ill be happy.

Today i did make the ugly discovery of finding rot in the lower transom so I started cutting the cap today the lips being on both the hull and cap makes it harder than just the shoe box type cap over hull but im getting there ok its just the cap at the transom that has me stuck atm im not sure whether I should cut around the splashwell from the inside or just keep cutting the cap across the transom just above the hull to separate it ? its a fair bit more work but atleast ill have alot more room to do the floor and stringers now lol


Sounds like you're going into it with the right perspective for the right boat.! You'll have a lot of fun getting the experience.

I've learned you can't rush the process. I've bought license tabs for the trailer and boat twice now thinking I would get it out. I also spent twice as much as I thought I would. My $600 deal turned into approximately $4,000. I'm happy with my Bellboy too.

Is your cap held on with bolts begins the rub rail? That's what mine look like but I haven't dug in to be sure.

Congrats on finding "the one". They say the relationships we've found only come around once in a lifetime. šŸ˜€
 

Pusher

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Webcore isn't an insert by the way, just a design they used for a couple year in their earlier boats in the 17-19' range.
 

aerojake

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Mar 22, 2014
Messages
6
The cap is held down by staple nails and a lot of polyester squished in with the rub rail.
I will post some pics of her sometime today and follow up with progression pics
 

aerojake

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Joined
Mar 22, 2014
Messages
6
So finally got the cap off and started ripping out the old transom nearly got it all but that wood sure sticks to the outer layer pretty good, I have a question regarding the transom thickness the one in the bell boy is only 20mm/0.8" thick does that seem a little bit on the thin side? with the glass it measures 1.2"

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Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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I'd use 2 layers of 23/32 Ext. Grade Plywood to make the new one. You can bevel the top if needed to make the top cap fit back on.
 

gm280

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I see you started the demolition and it looks like most every other boat rot issues. Odd how that works. I will say those are some ominous clouds in the background in the second shot. Looks like a storm coming in.

Anyhow, You are doing exactly what you need to be doing at this stage of the rebuild. Rip all the old rotted wood out and prepare the hull for the new wood. And I also agree with WOG's suggestions of the plywood to make your new transom. WOG knows his stuff and you can take any of his suggestions as gospel. JMHO
 

aerojake

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Mar 22, 2014
Messages
6
Yeah thanks for the reply's and great advice its great to have people willing to help as its a fairly daunting task for a newbie,
I will be using 2 layers of thicker ply as WOG said. that pic was when i picked up the boat and yes it did rain all the way back haha

I will start tracing and cutting the transom pieces this weekend is there anything else I can do beside adding taller knees at the transom to improve its strength ? I am being very thorough with this rebuild to insure that I don't have to open it up again anytime soon so any way I can strengthen or improve the integrity of the boat I will not hesitate to do.
 
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