1995 Skeeter Bay Pro

[Fishfinder17]

Howdy,

I'm a long time reader but first time poster. I have an old 1995 Skeeter Bay Pro that I'm trying to restore, but I'm stuck as to what to do first. The transom needs to be replaced as well as the deck. Judging by the hole in the front of the deck and some soft spots where the console was, I'm already assuming that I will need to replace the stringers as well. That is all pretty straight forward. The part I'm stuck on is the bottom. It has quite a bit of crazing, some terrible patch jobs, and one bad stress cracks on the bottom. I know that a lot of work is the understatement of year, but I needed to know which I should tackle first. The location of the stress cracks make me want to turn the hull over. I have never done this on a 21' boat before, or fiberglass bost period. Is this something I should even attempt? If so, should I remove the deck and foam to make it lighter but leave the old transom, stringers, and bulkheads, or should I replace the transom, stringers, and bulkheads first before dealing with the bottom? I'll post pictures when I get home.

 

[Fishfinder17]

Here are photos.

 

[Fishfinder17]

After talking it over with a friend I'm not going to flip it to fix the bottom. Decided to go ahead and start removing some of the deck while I wait on my lifting bolt to come in. I knew somebody had "redone" parts of this boat before, but apparently they didn't believe in using any type of resin on the deck. I was able to peel the glass off the wood in one piece without any effort. The wood was also screwed down with wood screws. I also was surprised that there are no bulkheads either. Instead a piece of wood was laid across to support the deck. While removing some of the foam I found two pieces of bare wood suspended in the foam, which I think were supposed to be stringers, and these two compartments that I didn't know were there. I was also not expecting foam stringers. When I replace them should I redo as foam or can I convert them to wood?

 

[gm280]

Okay first let me say, :welcome: aboard fishfnder17. Always great to have a new iboater join us...

Now let me state that this is merely my opinion. I would do all the structural work inside the hull first. And here is why. To do the stringers, floor, and transom correctly, you have to remove all those rotted items and grind the hull to fresh glass in prep for new stringers, transom and floor. And one you do the grinding, you are most likely to grind through the hull here and there, or at least most do. It happens so easily that most accidentally make an oops or four with their inside work. But once you get all those items replaced and a solid hull, then I would flip the boat to do the underside work. The hull will be solid and not flex while repairing any issues on the bottom. And therefore you won't have to worry about damaging or flexing the hull doing the repairs on the bottom.But like I stated, that is just how I actually did mine. Inside first, then flip and underside next. JMHO

 

[Fishfinder17]

No Title

Demolition progressing. Removed the compartments on the bow and aft. I was able to get the back out in one piece and intend to reinstall it once it is cleaned up and the new deck is on. The front was such a lost cause and I hate the layout so much I decided I will start from scratch. I still need to remove the front deck, transom, and stringers.

Question: Can these stringers be replaced with wood ones? They are currently made of fiberglass and foam.

 

[gm280]

Demolition progressing. Removed the compartments on the bow and aft. I was able to get the back out in one piece and intend to reinstall it once it is cleaned up and the new deck is on. The front was such a lost cause and I hate the layout so much I decided I will start from scratch. I still need to remove the front deck, transom, and stringers.

Question: Can these stringers be replaced with wood ones? They are currently made of fiberglass and foam.

Seems you have done a lot of work. In answer to your question, YES, you can rebuild your stringer from wood. Most use exterior grade plywoods. And then you polyester them back in and use polyester resin and CSM and 1708 fiberglass to reinforce them. Read a few refurbish projects on here to get an idea what it take to do that. In fact go to the top of the this forum and go to the "How To's and Other Great Information" sticky and then go down to number 14 in the list and open it up and read. It covers near about everything you will want to know about such things.

Also keep posting your progress pictures. We love pictures. :thumb:

 

[Fishfinder17]

Ok, good. Thanks for the help!

 

[Fishfinder17]

No Title

Ok, so I have gotten a lot of work done. I will post pictures when I get back home on Friday. I have removed all of the deck, stringers, and transom. This Saturday I am going to start the process of grinding everything down to good glass, but I have one burning question that I would like some advice on. My hull does not have a cap like most of the boats here. At the transom I have had to remove the top since one side was repaired with regular Bondo body filler and the other side was delaminated and cracked. The diagram I have attached is roughly how it looks. From the red line everything on the right I have removed. When I replace the transom, how many layers of glass should I lay down, and what would be the best way to get a smooth transition from the rub rail? I'll post better pictures tomorrow when I get home, but this question has been bothering me for the last three days.

 

[Fishfinder17]

No Title

The "Honey Do" List has wrecked my Saturday for boat work, but at least I'll be free for tomorrow. Here is where I am currently.

 

[Fishfinder17]

I have the transom glue together, but I am really nervous on cutting the transom angles so that it lays flush at the top and bottom. Does anybody have a diagram on the correct directions they should be cut? I'm really bad at cutting angles the wrong way and I'm very nervous that I'm going to mess this up.