1972 19ft. Barcone CC rebuild

Flukinicehole

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 29, 2004
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365
Well I guess I'm a glutton for punishment. After finishing the 17ft. and taking a year off to enjoy the boat I have come to the conclusion I needed a bigger boat. Now funny story is I had a bigger boat and sold it then bought the smaller boat. Well after rebuilding it and taking it out a few times now my family always want to come along. That's great! but the boat is a small 17ft so I needed something bigger and I had a blast rebuilding the last one so I bought this on ebay today. The warden is not happy but for only $504.19 the trailer alone is worth more. I do not plan to attack this project until it cools down a little here and I hope to go pick it up next weekend. Honestly can not wait to start this project....the neighbors are gonna love me when I fire up the grinder again. I'm not sure what year the motor is as it did not say only that it was a 120 Johnson. Looks late 90's though no? Trailer has no rust, motor has no rust anywhere. It looks like it was never used just sat outside its whole life. I will bring her back to life!
 

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gm280

Supreme Mariner
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Jun 26, 2011
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Well you have already refurbished another boat. So the surprises wit this one won't be a much of a shock. When a boat goes for a mere $504 dollars, there is something that is going to need some work for certain. I think once you do your hands on it (literally) you will see why it sold so cheap. However, you seem to understand such things and therefor have things in perspective. Post more pictures when you get it and start the rebuild efforts. :thumb:
 

Flukinicehole

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 29, 2004
Messages
365
The seller stated that it had a cracked transom which tells me it needs stringers and everything. Honestly there will be no surprises unless there is something I do not have to change lol. I will keep the thread going as work progresses.
 

Flukinicehole

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Joined
May 29, 2004
Messages
365
I talked to the owner today and he gave me the low down on the boat. He stated that the Motor ran great (has been sitting for going on 3 years and has rebuilt starter), trailer is great with new bearings every year, electric winch (new the year boat was parked so i will sell it), even comes with a Hummingbird 957C which was also like a year old when boat was parked. He said that every time he went out waves would come over the transom of the boat so he raised the transom 5 inches :nightmare:. He stated that he used it for 5 years with no issue then it cracked :eek-new:. I have a feeling there was water coming over the transom because of the extra weight in the stringers from the water intrusion but we will see :). Going to pick it up next weekend. I asked if the trailer would make it from Massachusetts to NC and it should have NP. I will probably make it to NJ before the wheels fall off :laugh:.
 

Flukinicehole

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Joined
May 29, 2004
Messages
365
Well I got her home last night with no issues. I power washed her this morning because it was a disaster and she looks pretty good. I'm trying to come up with a game plan because the one I had might not be the best one. He said that he redid the floor and it was solid. I think he just repainted it but yes it is very solid. The floor is part of the cap I believe so I'm not sure exactly what he did. Funny thing is the transom is solid also. I mean it has no flex at all zero, nada, zilch. It has a crack from where he had raised it 5 inches but that is all. It is cracked along the whole splice they did. The way he did the splice is as follows.
1) They drilled from top down into transom and installed 4 SS rods. (he stated the wood in transom was dry and solid)
2) Installed oak planks and fiber glassed them in.
3) Re painted and put her into use.
He said it lasted for 5 years then cracked. It looks like separation to me and I will post some close up pictures later so you can see what I'm talking about. I push and pull on the skeg and it is still solid with no flex. Before I pull the cap and start a full resto should I get her running and take her for a small ride. He stated the stringers were also in good shape but I find it hard to believe on a 1972 boat. I figure if the floor does feel solid and I take it for a ride and there is no hull flex why pull the cap? Trying to weigh my options here and I'm sot worried about pulling the cap just why do all that work if I do not have to? What would you guys do or have done in the past? Only thing I found is on the bottom where it looks like it took a rock hit at one time. The gel-coat is cracked right off on a section about 2 inches long.
 

Flukinicehole

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 29, 2004
Messages
365
I took the time to see if I could get her started yesterday. The owner had told me that the carbs would fill with oil when she sat so I started there. I pulled all the drains from the carbs and they sure were full of oil. I disconnected the fuel line and put it in a fresh can of fuel to rinse the line and carbs. I installed the plugs and primed it. I turned the key and it fired right up :joyous:. I only ran it for a few seconds because there was no water coming out of the tell tale. I noticed there was water leaking from the lower unit so I figured the water pump was fried. Hey she started and sounded good. I then decided to to a compression test and have 3 at 120 and one at 115. Not bad after sitting almost 3 years and never warmed up. I will take some pics today as I forgot yesterday.
 

Flukinicehole

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May 29, 2004
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Here are some before and after pics of her cleaned up. He even gave me the new starter and a Hummingbird 957C GPS along with a Cuda FF. I ordered the new water pump so when I get that installed and run the engine some I will pull the engine and start repairs. I will ask the engineer at work if I can use one of his shops. He bought some property with 5 buildings on it that are all mostly empty. There is no electric but I do have a generator and I'm still not sure the route I will take with restoring. If I end up pulling the cap I will pull it in one of his buildings and bring the hull home to repair. If I do not pull the cap I will just do everything here at the house. I will also keep a running total on money spent on this project. So far with going to get her I'm up to $814.18.
 

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gm280

Supreme Mariner
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I read how the transom was made to accommodate the height. BUT, understanding what was done, I see a lot of iffy things. When the PO drilled into the transom from the top, that instantly made openings for water to get in regardless how well it was sealed. And since the holes were drill down into the transom, any water that does get in there will certainly sit in that hole and rot. So I am not so sure you don't have a rotter transom. JMHO
 

Flukinicehole

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 29, 2004
Messages
365
Transom is not rotted (yet) but yes I agree it all has to come out. Honestly I do not fully understand what they did and I was standing there listening to everything he was saying lol. Once I remove the engine and top cap over transom I will have a better idea how they layered it all together. Seems odd from what he was explaining but it is still very solid despite DE-laminating.
 

sphelps

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Nov 16, 2011
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Looks like a nice buy for just 500 bucks ... If ya plan on leaving the transom filled in higher then I agree ... replace it and make it all one piece . .. He probably just did not prep it well and use a good glass layup
for the extensions ....
 

Flukinicehole

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May 29, 2004
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OK I found something and I'm not sure how to go about repairing the problem. The Gelcoat is cracked on the bottom and it is missing a chunk about 3-4 inches long by up to 1/2" wide. The rest of the gelcoat is cracked for about 2 feet by about 1 inch wide. This is on both sides of the boat (the cracking) and the gelcoat is very thick. After doing some reading apparently gelcoat was much thicker back the (1972) then today and was more prone to cracking. So I have 2 questions.
1) Is there a bigger problem then just the cracked gelcoat? The fiberglass under the piece that is missing looks like it took a rock shot at some point but the rest looks solid and does not feel soft.
2) How would I go about repairing? Strip it all to fiberglass? What would I then use as a filler?
Here are a few pictures. The whole bottom looks like it has spiderweb cracks. It is a 72 so I'm sure she has seen a lot of water in her life. Thats's OK though....we will bring her back.
 

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Flukinicehole

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 29, 2004
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Welcome aboard Teamster. I hope I get some advice before I just start grinding lol. Here are a few more pics of the cracking on the bottom of the boat. I think I will grind all the gelcote off the bottom and lay new gelcote or paint on. I do not think it is structure damage but I'm not sure. These look superficial but is this "normal"?
 

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Slager

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Apr 30, 2014
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189
I'll follow along.

Check out David Pascoe's site on yacht survey. I'm pretty sure I remember reading something on there about assessing cracks and what determines if they indicate a structural problem.

From my observation of the pictures, it looks like the boat has some flex, but it may not be a problem. As long as the fiberglass underneath doesn't have cracks, considering the age of the boat and the amount of gell coat cracking, it is probably a cosmetic fix.

I recommend you find some way to access the stringers and drilling a couple holes to check for wet wood and rot.
 

sphelps

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Nov 16, 2011
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Is it like that on the entire hull bottom ? IMO you would need to grind the heavy crazed sections like that out then check the glass under it .. Just regular spider cracks can be V grooved out with a dremel tool then filled ...
 

Flukinicehole

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May 29, 2004
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Welcome aboard Slager. I will check out Dave Pascoe's site and see what he says. I'm pretty sure I will be doing a complete rebuild now but we will see. I will drill some holes in the 2 rear stringers and see whats in there. I think I can get to more if I pull the gas tank cover. Thanks for the advice.
 

Flukinicehole

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May 29, 2004
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365
sphelpe Most of the bottom of the boat has the cracking so I would just grind the whole thing down and inspect the fiberglass. This should tell me everything I need to know. I drilled into the stringers today and they do not seem as bad as I would have thought. They were damp but not what I would call wet. This is a 1972 and I honestly figured they would be soaked if not non existent as my last project was. The one was de-laminated from the wood so I will be looking into that further but of course it started raining so it will have to wait till tomorrow. Also the engineer at work is letting me bring home our scope camera so I can look around in the gas tank area and get into the bilge area better. I think I really need to dunk her and take her for a spin. I should be able to feel any hull flex if there are stringer issues up front. What do you guys think? I could do a marine tex patch on the missing gelcoat and take a quick spin. No? Or is this a bad idea?
 

Flukinicehole

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 29, 2004
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365
Well it has been a while but has been to warm to start grinding. I will start removing all of the gelcoat from the bottom of the boat and strip the skin off of the transom today. I have the week off and temps look perfect to throw some dust into the neighbors yard. This is going to be a long process as the gelcoat is very thick on this boat. Hope to get out there at 9 (give the neighbors a chance to have coffee) and start grinding. I'm curious to see how far I get today.
 

Flukinicehole

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May 29, 2004
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So I did a couple hours of grinding today (great weather for grinding) and have a question. There are some pit marks under the gelcoat. They are all very small but look like small "voids" non the less. Is this something I should fix? Of just paint over them? I was thinking maybe just doing a coat of poly resin on the whole bottom and sand down but do not know what would be the best. Any insight would be much appreciated.
 

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sphelps

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Just resin is pretty much useless with out mat .. Are those cracks in the glass ?
 
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