1979 Crestliner Project

[Yards]

Hello everyone, I am in the demo stage of my 16' 1979 Crestliner project boat. I have a few questions at the moment and hope someone can help me with. There will be many more questions as time progresses.

1. At the stern on both sides there are boxes built on the floor filled with floatation foam as you can see from picture 2,3 & 4. The foam ran all the way to the transom as well. I can only assume this was for both flotation and support? Question is, do I need to have all that foam replaced in that area? Since the foam is supported by the deck, two wood walls, and the haul wall, I would think I could support the transom in that small area another way and use less foam when the time comes to put everything back together. Or do you think I should replace it like it was and have the foam go all the way to the transom? just not sure that since the foam was adhered to haul wall as well, if it was doing anything there as well.

2. Stringers. As you can see, when I cut into the stringers they were wet. The stringers are a box type using the foam and a piece of wood sitting on top of the foam for support. The walls have no wood supporting them. So here is my question, which might sound stupid to those experienced builders. Can I cut the top off the fiberglass stringers, remove the wood and wet foam, replace with new foam and epoxy covered wood, and then fiberglass the top with new material to the existing glass sides? the sides are in great shape (minus the one side in the picture that I cut) and attached to the floor as solid as can be. In my very very inexperienced mind, I can sand the existing stringer wall so the new material will take. I figure if the fiberglass wall is already strong and has excellent adhesion to the haul, why mess with it. Will new material not stick to the old fiberglass stringer wall even if prepped?

Thanks for taking the time look over my post and guiding me in the right direction. I am trying to do this with minimum cost, but I also don't want to compromise the integrity of structural components.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Welcome to iBoats dry dock m8!

These boxes were made to support the transom seats. The foam inside them has nothing to do with supporting the transom. It is just for floatation. The factory calculated the cubic foot amout required to keep your boat above water in case it started to take water and sink and they concluded that they need more than they can hide under the deck so they put it there. It is also possible that they added this foam for noise dampening reason so these boxes dont amplify engine noise.

In either case, I would refoam them. While you as the boat owner - as opposed to the factory - has no legal obligations to foam your boat, it is a very good idea to actually do.

Regarding your stringers , you have a foam core stringers. The foam was added there just to provide the shape to glass over. After the glassing was done, the foam was irrelevant to the strength of the stringers; however it could be relevant to the required amout of floatation foam, I am not sure.

Your plan is a sound one. I would grind the edges of your cut to a long tapper from the outside and inside of the stringer if possible. Clean well with Acetone and set a waxed piece of plastic or even wood covered with wax paper from the outside of the stringer so that the edge of it reaches only halfway through the stringer thickness. This will act as a backer board so you can start building up the glass from inside the stringer.

Start by a piece of 1708 cut to full height of the stringer but extends only 2-3 inches from each side on the tapered edges. Increase the overlap with every subsequent layer. When you build the outside thickness, do the same from the inside.

If the space inside the stringer is tight- it looks ok to me in the picture or the stringers walls are not thick enough to justify the efforts, modify the method to work on one side only of each stringer wall. I would then refoam it - at least to provide sipport for the top wood plate, grind Acetone, and glass over the whole section.

I hope this helps, best of luck to you

 

[Yards]

Great, thanks for the reply!

 

[mickyryan]

good luck , post more pics we love pics will be watching thread and interject if I got anything to add or even to /tiphat on a job well done!

 

[Yards]

No Title

As you can see from the pictures, I have been working on the 79 Crestliner. I have all the wood off the Transom and the Deck is completely out. I am now in the grinding phase. my question is this for the transom. How far do I take skin down. All the wood is off as you can see. I have been grinding and sanding for many hours. The pictures are kinda bad since I took them late in the day. If you can tell from the pics, how much more do I need to clean it up. I am worried about sanding through the original skin. If the pictures are too bad to tell, I will post more pics this weekend when I get a chance to work on it again.

Another issue I found when I took the motor off, there is an indentation where the bottom whole of the motor mount is. When the inner skin was sanded, you can see little hole where the skin was pushed into the transom. What is the best way to fix this?

I hope my question make sense. It been a long and frustrating day of sanding and grinding. Once again, thanks the help and any advice is welcome. Boat Resto is totally new to me. Although very frustrating at times, I am really enjoying the experience. Its always fun to lean new things.

 

[Yards]

No Title

Anyone have any suggestions on how I should repair the issue that resulted from the motor creating an indentation is the outside skin? I have all the wood out and I am in the process of grinding and cleaning up the inside of the outer skin so I can replace my Transom, stringers and deck. As you can see from the one picture, the fiberglass was indented so far that there is daylight showing through. what would be the best way to fix the indent on the outer skin. Thanks

 

[Yards]

Almost done with the destruction phase. I only have a few more feet of foam and wood to take out of the stringers. Epoxy and 1700 cloth should be arriving this week. Hopefully I can start putting her back together very soon. Here are my plans, I welcome any advice to male this a smooth process.

1. Using two 3/4 ACX plywood glued together with Titlebond III. The transom will be coated in epoxy once cured. I will then use PB to glue the wood to the outer fiberglass skin. I will tab the transom in using 1700.

2. As you can see from the picture, I left the shell intact for the stringers since they are secured very well to the hull. My plan is to replace the foam, put the 3/4 inch wood back on top of the foam and then fiberglass it back in to close the stringers off.

3. I am planning on using 1/2 BCX plywood covered in Epoxy for the deck. Then tab it in with 1700.



A few questions,

I am going to use screws as well as clamps while gluing the two pieces of wood together. If I epoxy over the screws, can I leave them in or I am better of taking them out and filling the holes?

I have never worked with resin or fiberglass. When using PB to glue the transom in, do I spread PB on the wood and the fiberglass skin, or just one? The fiberglass Skin has had many hours of sanding but is still not 100% even. I assume the PB will help fill in the small low spots while it is glued in. Is my train of though correct?

Before I can secure the wood into the boat, I will need to repair a couple of holes that I put In the fiberglass. Apparently I was having so much fun sanding, I didn't want to stop until all the fiberglass was gone.

In the second picture, you are looking at a small sand through areas on the transom fiberglass just above hull. My plan to repair that area is as follows. put one or two small layers of 1700 over the hole. The new glass will also be covered in PB when the wood gets glued in. Does this sound like an acceptable repair?

The third picture is of a larger hole in the hull close to the corner where transom meets the hull. Once again, I plan to cover the hole with two layers of 1700. Half of the new glass will be covered with PB because of the fillet for the wood, then the rest of the hole will have another few layers of 1700 because of the tabbing once the wood is in place.

Any input is welcome. I have never done anything with fiberglass so I hope I am on the right track. I will post more pictures as a progress through the build.

 

[Yards]

No Title

sorry pictures didn't load on last post. in the second picture it is upside down and for some reason it wont rotate. Sorry

 

[Woodonglass]

Anyone have any suggestions on how I should repair the issue that resulted from the motor creating an indentation is the outside skin? I have all the wood out and I am in the process of grinding and cleaning up the inside of the outer skin so I can replace my Transom, stringers and deck. As you can see from the one picture, the fiberglass was indented so far that there is daylight showing through. what would be the best way to fix the indent on the outer skin. Thanks

use a 2x4 for a backer and hammer it back out to as flat as you can get it. The Epoxy PB you're using for installing the transom will seal it on the inside. Once the transom is in and cured, you can do a cosmetic repair from the outside.

 

[Yards]

Thx wood

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Read my post number 113 on page 8 of this thread

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...enter-console-rebuild?p=10270494#post10270494

I gave step by step instructions of how I would fix similar issue. You are using epoxy so ignore the 1708.

If you use deck screws ceramic coated, you can leave then in but I would remove them after I glue the transom sheets and then fill the holes and epoxy over it.

You went over board with grinding. I would add a layer or two of 1700 to the inner transom skin to make up the thickness you ate away with the grinding/sanding disk.

If you have any questions on my post in the other thread, don't ask it there. Ask it here in your thread and I will reply as soon as I can.

 

[Yards]

Will do, thx Deep. Ya I, I got a little crazy with the grinder at it cut through on the transom. Actually, I was grinding the floor and the edge of the grinder/sander hit the transom skin and busted right through. The rest of my transom has pretty good thickness still I believe. I assume you meant add a layer of 1700 to the repair area and not the entire transom skin correct? I will look over your thread tonight. Thx for info, it is much appreciated!!

 

[Yards]

As you can see from my stringer picture in post #8 there are no bulkheads. When I tore the boat apart this is all there was. Is this common in a small 16ft boat with foam core stringers to not have bullheads? I was thinking of putting three in evenly spaced when I get to that point. I figure it can't hurt to give the old gal some extra support. I will post pictures of my progress soon. I have the transom glued into place, as well As foam and wood back in the stringers. Now I just need to glass in the stringers and transom.

 

[Woodonglass]

Yup it's very typical. As long as the thickness of the Stringer walls is 1/4" or better and there's no delamination from the hull. The strength of these type stringers comes totally from the Glass. The foam was only use to shape them.