Completing/converting factory livewell to something usable

[bashr52]

I'm still trying to figure out all the little quarks with my new center console, and one thing that bothers me is the live well area. It is a 1994 Dixie 21ft center console "sport fisher" model (has all the built in rod holders, tackle box, storage, etc) and it has an area under the seat in front of the engine compartment (I/O model) that I'm guessing is meant to be a bait/live well. There is a switch on the dash labeled "aerator" and a screened pump at the bottom of the box. Pulling out that switch will only pump out any water that has gathered in this area. There is no provisions for any kind of a fill or overflow, so I'm not sure if this area was really meant to be a bait/live well of some sort, or just a place to store beer and ice that you can remove the water from once its melted. It seems like to use it to store fish in, it would be a manual fill, and you could only keep things alive as long as there was oxygen in the water. It is a big area, likely 3x2x3 ( I can set a square 5 gallon kitty litter pail in here with room to spare between the top of the bucket and the lid).

I bought it to be primarily a fishing boat, so I would like to convert this area to be an actual usable live well. Any suggestions on where to begin?

Thanks!

 

[fishin98]

Pictures please.....Is there a inflow opening and a outflow outlet...(it is usually near the top)?

 

[fhhuber]

There should be a pump to fill the live well... and a drain valve.

I'd be seeing if I could trace the plumbing connections and find these.

 

[bashr52]

Nope, nothing there. The only thing that is installed is a drain pump w/intake screen. No way to fill the compartment or any kind of an overflow. I've been all over the hull from the outside and the only fittings are the bilge and live well pump drains. I'm at a loss as to why there is only a way to pump out the area, but no way to fill it.

 

[bashr52]

No Title

Luckily my lake is only 15 min from work, so I ran up there at lunch to take a pic of the area in question. I stuck my head in there and looked around, the fiberglass is not fully up the sides, you can see the deck plywood around the perimeter where the fiberglass inner cap meets the top of the box. If I was going to convert this to an actual live well I would likely want to seal up those edges to stop water from sloshing up the sides and getting onto the wood when it was full. Other than the outlet pump, there is nothing in this area to indicate it ever had an inflow/overflow area.

 

[BWR1953]

Have you looked up inside the well area under the ledge around the perimeter? Might be a fill tube hiding up in there?

 

[bashr52]

Yep, I've stuck my head in there and looked all around, there is nothing. The only thing that runs through this area is in that large diameter plastic tube you can see near the top of the picture, and that is the passage for the boat wiring.

 

[BWR1953]

Yep, I've stuck my head in there and looked all around, there is nothing. The only thing that runs through this area is in that large diameter plastic tube you can see near the top of the picture, and that is the passage for the boat wiring.

Well, if there's no water input, then I'd have to go along with your guess that it's a pumped storage locker for icing down fish. Keeps everything cold and at the end of the day just push a button to drain. The screen keeps the bigger pieces from clogging the hose. Maybe there's a macerator in the pump as well?

 

[bashr52]

I'm thinking the only thing I'd have to do to convert it to a usable livewell would be finish sealing off the top seam, and install a pump for a spray bar, and an overflow? There is already the pump for emptying it at the end of the day.

 

[gm280]

I'm thinking the only thing I'd have to do to convert it to a usable livewell would be finish sealing off the top seam, and install a pump for a spray bar, and an overflow? There is already the pump for emptying it at the end of the day.

I can understand using a pump for the aerator issues and a spray bar, but I don't understand a pump for draining a live well. I have never seen such a setup. Usually the drain empties all by itself when opened up or removing the stand tube from the drain outlet. JMHO

 

[bashr52]

I can understand using a pump for the aerator issues and a spray bar, but I don't understand a pump for draining a live well. I have never seen such a setup. Usually the drain empties all by itself when opened up or removing the stand tube from the drain outlet. JMHO

I'd only use the pump to drain just because it's there. I could use the pump that's there to fill it, and just use the drain hole that's already there for the overflow/drain...

One thing I've nevery understood about these systems, if there is a another thru hull fitting under the water line to drain the system, what's to stop the water from coming back up the line?

 

[gm280]

I'd only use the pump to drain just because it's there. I could use the pump that's there to fill it, and just use the drain hole that's already there for the overflow/drain...

One thing I've nevery understood about these systems, if there is a another thru hull fitting under the water line to drain the system, what's to stop the water from coming back up the line?

Actually some live wells are completely filled via a drain type line setup. As the boat sits in the water the live well will fill to the lake level on the hull. And when you boat on, it will drain out as well. So some allow the water level to fill their live well and then put a stopper in the drain to stop it from draining out until they want to drain it out. Other live wells use a stand pipe that stops the water from coming in because it is higher then the lake level on the hull. And that same stand pipe will also work as an overflow as well. Meaning if you have an aerator spray bar fill option, the stand pipe, being open and hollow, will start draining water back out if the live well water level gets too high. So you can cut that stand pipe to control the live well level. However, it is a good idea to have another overflow drain outlet as well.

A typical live well setup has a pump to fill the live well via a spray bar at the top of the live well. It is also used to aerate the fish with fresh water every so many minutes if you have an aerator timer circuit. The stand pipe controlled the live well water level. And then you can remove that stand pipe and allow all the water to drain out once you are back on the trailer or even at home. JMHO

 

[zdeyonker]

If you have a pump that is draining it from the bottom, you could probably just reverse the wiring on the motor to have it spin the other direction. Might fill it and you would save yourself a ton of time and hassle. A lot of electric motors are reversible like the ones in your car doors. I would give that a try before doing any unnecessary work. Just make sure the outlet on the other end is in water first.

 

[bashr52]

Actually some live wells are completely filled via a drain type line setup. As the boat sits in the water the live well will fill to the lake level on the hull. And when you boat on, it will drain out as well. So some allow the water level to fill their live well and then put a stopper in the drain to stop it from draining out until they want to drain it out. Other live wells use a stand pipe that stops the water from coming in because it is higher then the lake level on the hull. And that same stand pipe will also work as an overflow as well. Meaning if you have an aerator spray bar fill option, the stand pipe, being open and hollow, will start draining water back out if the live well water level gets too high. So you can cut that stand pipe to control the live well level. However, it is a good idea to have another overflow drain outlet as well.

A typical live well setup has a pump to fill the live well via a spray bar at the top of the live well. It is also used to aerate the fish with fresh water every so many minutes if you have an aerator timer circuit. The stand pipe controlled the live well water level. And then you can remove that stand pipe and allow all the water to drain out once you are back on the trailer or even at home. JMHO

This is intriguing to me. All I would have to do is remove the pump from the drain hole, install a stand pipe in the hole and thru hull fitting at the rear of the boat to allow for the drain/overflow from the stand pipe. I can use the existing pump to fill it via a spray bar (once I hooked it up the to pump in from the lake vs out). To drain I could just pull the stand pipe and let it run out the back (at least if the boat was on the trailer, it will only drain to the level of the lake without a pump).

Something to consider.

The current pump is plumbed to a fitting that exists above the waterline, so simply reversing the pump would not work in this application.