Motor swap

jkgaddis

Cadet
Joined
Jul 28, 2016
Messages
7
Hello Gentlemen, I hope someone out there can help me ! I have a 1977 16' SeaSwirl 140hp OMC I bought brand new, and had taken pretty good care of it..... A few years ago, after thousands of waterskiing trips of taking my daughters to the lake, I have scuffed a hole in the "V" of the boat. I did not realize the hull was so thin and had no idea I had taken on water... The floor is rotted (I have removed all the rot ) and have considered rebuilding the hull.... I have recently found a Reinell that is 17' but had a Volvo-Penta that has motor damage. My Chev 140 and OMC outdrive are in excellent condition....Will it drop in and replace the Volvo engine ? Are the motor mounts the same ?? Would the steering mechanisms be the same ? Thank you for any help you may be able to offer !
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Why not just repair your boat? It's not all that difficult and with the experts here on this forum You CAN rebuild it better than NEW!!!
 

jkgaddis

Cadet
Joined
Jul 28, 2016
Messages
7
Woodonglass, Believe me I have really considered that ! My interior is still like brand new...just the rotten floor and the motor mount areas that are also rotted out.... I am a retired mechanic from UPS and do know mechanical things....never worked with fiberglass...
 

mickyryan

Rear Admiral
Joined
Apr 18, 2016
Messages
4,210
its a piece of cake worst part isgrinding and cutting and getting it cleaned up for new stringers and transom Tyvek suit and respirator and full mask is your friend but once its done man you will have a grin that cant be wiped off :) cold shower soap then hot then cold then hot then cold and itch will be minimized :)
 

jkgaddis

Cadet
Joined
Jul 28, 2016
Messages
7
Mickyryan, Thanks for the input ! ...you make it sound so easy... beginning to look like a fall/winter project....!
 

DeepBlue2010

Lieutenant
Joined
Aug 19, 2010
Messages
1,304
Fiberglassing - as in any other trade - has its own knowledge base that can be gained by study and experience. This specific job however is pretty straightforward.

Cleaning, grinding, dishing, cleaning, cleaning, 1708, 1708 done (sort of)

Don't be intimidated; you are not trying to be a professional chief and run a commercial kitchen, you are only trying to boil few eggs.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Woodonglass, Believe me I have really considered that ! My interior is still like brand new...just the rotten floor and the motor mount areas that are also rotted out.... I am a retired mechanic from UPS and do know mechanical things....never worked with fiberglass...
The majority of projects you see on this forum have been done by people who had never done any fiberglass work in their lives. With the help of the members they were able to do some outstanding work. As long as you're willing to listen and learn there's no reason not to take on the task. IMHO restoring your boat that is mechanically sound Is the way to go.;)
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,307
To answer your original question. 3.0 long blocks are interchangeable 1990 and lower or 1991 and newer. Blocks need to be of same vintage. The core motor (longblock) is same between volvo, omc, and mercruiser. The stuff bolted to it makes it a volvo, omc, or mercruiser
 

jkgaddis

Cadet
Joined
Jul 28, 2016
Messages
7
Scott, Thank you for explaining that. I have found quite a few good hulls here on the Oregon coast, but their interior is trashed. It wouldn't be a simple motor swap. Since I would have to repair the floors, replace the seats, etc. I mean these boats have been left out in the weather for years, mine has always been stored inside and everything is in excellent condition. I have decided to take Woodonglass's advice and rebuild my boat.
Woodonglass, Thank you also for your input. I will be starting this project soon, and will surely be contacting you guys for your expertise and knowledge!
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,307
If the boat is left outside, and the interior is trashed. Pretty sure those boats have more rot than yours
 

jkgaddis

Cadet
Joined
Jul 28, 2016
Messages
7
Gentlemen, I have completed the complete repair of my floor, transom, stringers, front and rear motor mounts. Everything has been completely fibreglassed and I am ready to set the motor back in. When I bought the boat new there were two shims under the rear motor mounts. As with everything else they are rotted away. One was about 3/8" and the other about 1/4". What purpose did they serve and can I leave them out and simply set the motor mounts directly on the floor ? Also, I have been told I need to position the motor correctly back in the boat at a correct height. (Probably what the shims were for )Something about the bottom of the hull being a certain height above the cavitation plate ? Can anyone help me with finding the specs for this and anything else I will need to do ? There definitely was more to this than just repairing the floor and transom !! It IS better than new though and I am looking forward to using my boat again !
 

Vintage Rider

Seaman
Joined
Mar 6, 2016
Messages
62
I'm suprised someone with actual experience hasn't already responded to this but since they haven't... The relationship between the bottom of the hull and the cavtation plate will be unchanged if you cut the hole in the transom wood using the hole in the hull as your guide. In other words, if the outdrive bolts up in the same place nothing will change. The rotted shims were there to bring the rear of the engine in proper alignment with the shaft from the outdrive. If improperly aligned, undue stress will be placed on bearings and ujoint. An alignment shaft, grease (and probably some shims) will be necessary to do the job. Please keep in mind that this information comes not from personal experience but from reading about how it was done on a MerCruser engine and outdrive. Unless you have a Stringer outdrive I would think the procedure for a Cobra outdrine would be similar but I don't know.

Hopefully, someone with experience will come along and correct any misinformation soon. If not, open a thread on the OMC forum .Either way, since you old shims were bad I suggest you take a close look at your bearings and ujoint before putting anything back together.
 
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