19 Foot MFG Boat Restoration

tallcanadian

Captain
Joined
Sep 7, 2006
Messages
3,245
Out all your layers in wet. I had all my cloth cut and ready to go. I finish one layer then start the other right after. You will have some working time with this. I believe 1% hardener is a good amount for working time.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,598
There is a screw and glue method for building hulls and making repairs. I think it was particularly popular when epoxies came into greater use in the hobby market, but it's an effective method for use with either epoxy or resin glassing. You might want to look into that method for repairing your hull.

I would think in terms of encased plywood on the inside of the hull, following the deadrise angle. Consider glassing the wood to the inside skin and securing with screws from the outside. Glass and cloth would be applied to the outside. The object of the repair (aside from keeping out the lake) is to allow normal flexing without additional damage to the cracked and weakened skin.

Ring shank screws give the best grip.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
You are WAY OVERTHINKING this!!! Go ahead and get ALL the repairs needed for the inside of the hull done.(Cuts in the hull, transom and Stringer installed) If you search the forum for fixing cuts in your hull you'll find a LOT of help. Your transom and stringer install is covered here...

Once everything is done on the inside, Brace across the Beam of the hull with 2x4's screwed in placed and then flip the hull. Slide it off the trailer and then roll her over. A cradle will help working on her once she's flipped. That pictured area of the hull should be sanded completely down to the glass removing ALL the GelCoat. Any other spider cracks if not to extensive, and be ground out with a dremel tool and then patched with Gelcoat paste.

Take it slow and easy and ask questions when you need to.
 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,429
If your resin has wax in it you will need to sand in between layers if the layer fully cures before the next .... If your using resin without wax ,which is preferred ,there is no need to sand between layers ... Like TC said wet on wet layups are your best option.. But depending on the size of the area that may not be possible ...
 

Chrismas Sko

Seaman
Joined
Jul 23, 2016
Messages
65
Thank you for all the feedback. And sorry for the overly frequent posts! I just get super excited and start thinking far ahead. Ill keep it more concise. Thank you OB1 for the clarification. Ill try to design it in my head and implicate your methods. And when I get to the point will surly be using that method to flip her.

I will post pics once the transom is done! Thanks
 

Chrismas Sko

Seaman
Joined
Jul 23, 2016
Messages
65
Today lots of progress was made. I bought 2 3/4" pressure treated highgrade exterior ply sheets and one 1/2" sheet. I decided the best thickness for my transom will be 2". I purchased a jug of tite bond 3 which I think should be enough to bind the three pieces well. I took the 1/2" sheet and sketched the outside of the transom to it, subtracted a 1/4" from all sides and ended up with a near perfect fit. Around it I put 2/5" shims to space it from the hull where the pb will fill.




I then took a grinder to it and softened up the edges so that there were no pointy aspects of it.




I am goilng to sue this as a stencil for the other two pieces. I will be building the transom tomorow, by cutting the other two 3/4" inch sheets of ply to shape, joining them with the glue, and screwing them together to cure over night.

I assembled my transom clamps today. I built them likechopsticcks. White wood has some flex to it so I built them at 2.5" of seperation, that way I will tighten the lower bolt to first bring the bottom of the clamp into contact with both sides of the transom and then the more they are tightened the further up the clamp contacts the wood and clamps down.



I have a few questions reagarding the transom process. First, Should I give the transom glass an acetone wash before I put the wood on and tab it in. Also, when I cover the wood in resin before glassing, is that resin with hardener or just pure resin. And lastely, is that resin coating enough to seal the edges of the ply, because I know they are like sponges. Would it be advisable to do the edges with penetrating epoxy, or mabey to slather them with titebond?

Thanks and best!
 

Pusher

Lieutenant
Joined
Sep 2, 2014
Messages
1,273
I believe you are right about giving it an acetone bath.

And you'll likely want the hardener or the glassing layer will be trying to bond with an uncatelyzed resin.

Double check on these points. WOG and some other will know.

You might also ask if pressure treated plywood is okay too. It's treated to resist being permeated. When you roll the resin on it may have a hard time soaking in.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
First off, PT plywood must be allowed to dry completely. Typically it's wet from the chemicals used and thei wetness could interfere with adhesion. You ALWAYS put hardener in Poly Resin. It's never used alone. Use the acetone to ensure both surfaces are clean from any/all contaminates. coat the edges with a LOT of Resin cuz it will really soak it up and then the PB ooze out around the edges will do a good job of sealing them as well. You have your clamp process backwards. You tighten the lower bolt first till it lightly contacts the top of the transom and then Loosen the upper bolt to move the lower section of the clamp until it touches the transom. Then tighten them both a little at a time to ensure equal pressure on the top and bottom of the transom. A backer board placed on the outside of the transom might be benefiial as well as taping over any holes/cracks too.
 

Chrismas Sko

Seaman
Joined
Jul 23, 2016
Messages
65
I had no Idea about that WOG but it makes perfect sense. I went back to Lowes today and exchanged those sheets for the same sizes in FIR exterior Ply. Thank you for giving me the heads up. Would have never known. I used the old peice of P treated wood for a model to cut the new pieces and followed this process.

Cut all three to shape. Format: 3/4" - 1/2" - 3/4"

Clamped together to got the perfectly lined up

Took a grinder to all the edges to make them all flush and smooth

Made three rows of 3-4" inch spaced screws to hold the wood in place during the gluing process and then to later be turned into "ooze" holes for PB

Inserted new transom into boat and tested for fit, clamped it in and traced the motor indentation to be cut out


Sanded inside to make flush

Disssembled and glued piece on to piece two (3/4" to 1/2"). Put screws back in.



Later today I will do the third 3/4" layer and then It will sit and cure over night. Tomorow I will sand the glue drippings from the sides and make it ready to suck in resin. Thanks WOG, I didnt know if it was pure resin that I should put in to just fill the wood so it wouldnt get thirsty when glassing it. I am not to savvy with fiberglass materials at all but I am going to practice a bit before I install the transom.

Question: how thick and viscus should the PB mix be when applying it to the back of the transom?

Def a good call Pusher with the PT wood. Never thought of that but it for sure makes sense.

Hope yall had a great day.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Like the name implies you want it just about like Creamy Peanut butter without the Peanuts.:D
 

Chrismas Sko

Seaman
Joined
Jul 23, 2016
Messages
65
Thank you Sphelps! Your thread is outstanding. Have learned tons from it.

Perfect WOG! Will do just that! Is it proper to leave some screws in place? Like, in the holes that are not for oozing?
 

Chrismas Sko

Seaman
Joined
Jul 23, 2016
Messages
65
Also. After perusing the forum for answers on how to patch holes. The method i have contrived after considering the methods I have found is to sand the cut area down in about a 6" radius around it. Fill the small cut with PB (tape the other side) and then glass over it and sand flush with the rest of the hull. Does this method sound advisable?
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
That pretty much covers it ^^^. You can leave the screws or remove em. Once the glue has cured for 24 hours they have done their job. I take em out and let the PB and resin take care of em.;)
 

Shakedownscott

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 12, 2011
Messages
179
Looking great CS, you are making a lot of progress. Found this brochure page online think this might be your boat. That will be you out there soon, keep up the good work.

 

Chrismas Sko

Seaman
Joined
Jul 23, 2016
Messages
65
Sounds great WOG! I will just pop them screws out then!
and thanks SDS! WOW, this is amazing! Thats your boat too right? You know I found some pics but they were so low resolution i couldnt really tell what was going on in them, these are clear enough that I can really see. It has those little ribs on the sides that I was talking about, know I have a picture to go off of. Perfect.

Will work today and see how far I get. Best!
 

Chrismas Sko

Seaman
Joined
Jul 23, 2016
Messages
65
Also SDS, when I was looking through your thread a while back, I noticed your boat had a hull liner in it. That was one of the reasons I thought my boat might need some extra glass on the sides (because the liner was gone in mine to provide it with extra suport. Im sure the liner makes it much more rigid. Does this sound logical to you guys?
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,585
Coming along nicely there Chrismas Sko. It gets exciting when you start this part of the rebuild. Seems like you have everything covered well. Follow WOG's instructions and it will be perfect. He knows his stuff. The only thing I've seen that makes me ask, why is there a 2 x 4 part at the end of your wooden clamps. Doesn't that hinder your clamping ability to squeeze the two poles parallel tightly? I made five of them for my transom install, but without the 2 x 4 part at the end. Just wondering. :noidea:
 
Top