Project #2 flat bottom to bass boat conversion

goatnad

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Feb 23, 2014
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64
I have decided to start another project since im getting close to being finished with my first boat. I have an 1978 arrow glass 14 foot flat bottom boat that I am wanting to convert into a bass boat. I mostly want to convert it because when you move or drop anything in the boat it makes alot of noise. I also really like what others have done with their flat bottom boats by doing a conversion and adding organization to the boat with storage spaces, rod holders, find finders and more. I have a few ideas of how i would like to do it but figured some of you could give me much needed info on this project. I cant really find anything about this boat but I also haven't really looked all that hard for it. I have had this boat about 2 years now. I replaced rivets that were leaking and used 5200 when putting them in. I had some left over gluvit I put on the outside bottom of the boat over the rivets to do 2 things. First to test the gluvit. I know many don't use it on the bottom of their boats and gluvit is not uv resistant. Well I can say very surprisingly gluvit is some of the best stuff I have ever found for sealing stuff. In 2 years not a single leak and it is still in great shape and hard as a rock. Second reason i did it was to just add more seal to the rivets in case I screwed up somehow with a rivet or the 5200. Now for a few questions.

The main question is going to be about weight. Anyone know about this boat and its weight limits? I am leaving the foam in the benches and will be adding flooring with foam also. Do you think this boat will still be buoyant enough? I will likely only be using a trolling motor on this boat but I do have a 7.5 hp motor I might look into fixing up for this boat.

Second question how to go about mounting the decks and framing in the boat. How would I go through the hull and into the wooden frame or should I do an aluminum frame? Ive never cut or worked with aluminum before and I have no welder nor welding experience so remember that if you were going to recommend that.

The last question is can any of you give good recommendations on how the boat should be layout, what to add, where to add it. Things like storage spaces, rod holders the storage kind and ones that hold casted rods, fish finder, live well if you think there is room, lights for running trotlines and to light up the inside of the boat a bit and any other useful thing for fishing. I'm not looking for stuff like a radio or grill or anything like that. Just the usual needed fishing stuff. I fish for bass, sunfish, crappie, bowfin, catfish.

The boat is used on calm small lakes (up to 250 acre lakes) and small rivers and creeks. Here are some pictures of the boat and tomorrow I will post a design of a general idea of how I am thinking of doing the layout. Anything you guys can tell me about doing this project will be helpful.
Sj5lAwa.jpg

 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
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Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
First, it's a small skinny boat, it will be very sensitive to weight and its location, I wouldn't build up any platforms for standing on or add much to it.

A light flat floor as low as possible would be about it.
 

goatnad

Seaman
Joined
Feb 23, 2014
Messages
64
Well that ruins my project :( what thickness board could I get away with for the flooring? I have some exterior plywood that is 1/2". Could I seal and use that then carpet it? Could I glue carpeting to the sides? I'm thinking floor, side carpet and swivel seats on the benches now just to make it more comfortable and quiet. Does that sound better?
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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Here's what I'd do. I'd cut some of the Pink Slab foam and lay it between each rib Use some PL adhesive to glue it down too!!! that would even out the floor and cut down on the noise too. Then lay the 1/2" plywood on top of it. For SURE i'd use the OTR to seal the wood first. I'd then Paint it with Rustoleum and apply some playground sand to the first coat while it was still wet then after it dried I'd apply another coat and more sand followed by one more finish coat of paint. But, I AM just and Old Dumb Okie so you might wanna think about it!!!:lol:
 

goatnad

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Feb 23, 2014
Messages
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You know that sounds like a pretty good idea woodonglass. Thank you. If I do that I won't have to worry about the carpet getting soaked and it makes it that much cheaper for me. I already have the sand from my aquarium hobby and the wood sealer. The paint and foam is all I need now.
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
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Apr 6, 2005
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11,527
If the wood is on the foam you may not even need 1/2" ply, you may be able to go thinner.
 

goatnad

Seaman
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Feb 23, 2014
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64
Yes, the wood will be sitting right on top of the foam and ribs of the boat but I already have part of a sheet of 1/2" left from doing the transom in my other boat and it's just long enough to do a floor in the middle. I might as well use that instead of spending more money. Out of interest what would be the thinnest wood I could use? Also I have some rustoleum anti-slip additive left. Would it be better to use the play sand or the anti-slip?
 
Last edited:

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
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Apr 6, 2005
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11,527
If you have it then the 1/2' is fine.

You can use any sand you want, or mix them, it just depends on how aggressive you want the non skid to be.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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25,924
Since the deck would be 100% supported by the foam planks you could probably use 1/4" but the weight savings would be minimal. I'd use the Rustoleum anti slip since you have it.
 

goatnad

Seaman
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Feb 23, 2014
Messages
64
Last question and then I start on this project. Do I need to prime before painting or will the paint adhere well to the sealer coat on the wood?
 

goatnad

Seaman
Joined
Feb 23, 2014
Messages
64
I have cabot spar varnish but im really interested in trying your old timers recipe. I don't have anywhere to get the marine yacht varnish so I would have to order that. Could i use this cabot varnish in place of the yacht varnish and still do your recipe?
 
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