Gelcoat question

[pro-crastinator]

What is the difference in (non mold use) Gelcoat and polyester resin?
Is gelcoat just a pigmented version?

The reason I ask is that i am contemplating popping off the cap from my runabout and flipping the hull to "give attention" to the wear marks on the keel.

I was thinking that if I use the poly resin, I can get her where she needs to be. Its not like I will be seeing the repairs day to day and the simple knowledge that the keel is "fixed" will satisfy my desire to do right by the boat. Maybe i could get a small batch tinted gelcoat ordered that may sort of match the hull tint ( original1957 vintage) but who can tell?.

Yes, the cap needs work and the transom needs a re-do.

Thanks
Bennett

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Our expert on the subject is Ondarvr, I read many of his posts in which he mentioned that gelcoat is pigmented poly resin. It could be that there are some other characteristics of the resin are modified but the general answer for your question is yes, it is.

Regarding the keel, what is the extent of the "damage" that needs repair? Is it just cosmetic (the finish - gelcoat - is gone)? or the fiberglass underneath is damaged also? Can you post a picture?

 

[ondarvr]

The gel coat is basically a cosmetic finish, it does other things too, but for the most part it makes things look good. On the bottom of the boat it won't make a difference whether you use gel coat or just resin...the best part...the fish don't care either.

 

[pro-crastinator]

No Title

Primary goal is transom replacement. Plans are to begin work in late fall and use the boat this summer.
The cap on the boat needs to be removed to get to the transom. I just think I would be crazy not to put some effort into the keel and the cap while they are seperated.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Are these blisters I see in picture 1? If this is the case, the bottom if the hull will get much more attention that you planed for. Please post more pictures of this area also post an overall picture of the boat from outside. The damage in picture 2 is a fiberglass damage that requires some grinding and glassing.

 

[pro-crastinator]

Yes they are blisters. Dry blisters. not osmotic. They still need attention.
No other portion of the hull exhibits blistering. I can pretty much count em all in the pic.
If anything, these areas of concern only give more weight to the plan to de-cap the boat and flip the hull for repairs.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Yes they are blisters. Dry blisters. not osmotic. They still need attention.
No other portion of the hull exhibits blistering. I can pretty much count em all in the pic.

If anything, these areas of concern only give more weight to the plan to de-cap the boat and flip the hull for repairs.

This is exactly what I was thinking. Your plan is a little too much work if the only thing you want to do was to fix the keel. Even now, you still can fix it all without the flipping the hull specially if you are OK considering bottom painting.

There are few important steps to fix blisters drying the hull is one of them. Once again, our expert on the subject is @Ondarver; follow his advice to the T and you should be fine.

 

[gm280]

Yes they are blisters. Dry blisters. not osmotic. They still need attention.
No other portion of the hull exhibits blistering. I can pretty much count em all in the pic.
If anything, these areas of concern only give more weight to the plan to de-cap the boat and flip the hull for repairs.

If you are going to follow up with your plan to separate the hull and flip it over for repairs, then I think you can fix everything and make it look great again as well. And for the record, I have used 435 laminating polyester resin and gray liquid pigment with great results. And once mixed, it covers in one coat. I haven't actually tried spraying the mixture, but used a chip brush to apply. But I was using CSM with the colored resin mixture to water proof storage and rob boxes areas insides. It mixes really easy and only take 4ozs per gallon. And you can buy the liquid pigment in a lot of colors and even mix them to achieve what unique color you could want. JMHO!

 

[pro-crastinator]

Deep Blue: I agree. A flip job would be too much work if the keel and bottom were the only concerns. Accessing the transom for replacement is the primary motivator. The bottom work was a secondary repair.
GM280: Good info about the pigment in the poly resin. I was anguishing about matching the well aged hull color (circa 1957) and your comments offer comfort in the persuit of a proper tint.
On a separate note, I had the boat on the lake this past weekend. It was the first time out since it was repowered with a new 30hp 4 stroke.
The hull felt like it wanted to plow when I rolled on the power after achieving plane. Hull shape is what I am thinking s the cause. Built for comfort not for speed - which is fine by me. Didn't get a 30 installed to go fast.

 

[Woodonglass]

When you get around to flipping the hull to work on the keel, you might consider this...

I used Black Pipe foam insulation, and contact cement to hold it on the cross members of the frame 1 - 2x6x12 cut in half for the cross members, and 1- 2x4 x 12 cut in half for the outside rails and a 16' 2x4 for the center rail. Used 8" pneumatic casters from Harbor Freight to make it roll easy on the grass. Total costs were under $70. Took about 2 hours to build once I had all the materials. These boat a fairly light so I left the cap on when I flipped her. You can modify later to hold the hull when it's flipped upright.

 

[pro-crastinator]

Wood, I like that rack a lot.I was thinking about using pool noodles for my contact areas.
The pneumatic tires should make a ton of difference.
Not looking forward to taking off the top cap. Thinking about using an oscillating cutoff tool to separate the pieces.
Am also unsure of the stuff they used to fill gaps between the cap and hull pieces. Looks like caulking, feels like poly resin.