89 skeeter sd125 transom replacement questions.

Gonefishing85

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Hello. I have been doing a bit of research and reading posts on here but this is my first post.

The short version of a long story is that I got this boat in a trade. As you can see in the picture, the top cap on the skeeter seperated from the hull and allowed water in which started rotting the transom wood from the top down. After throughly inspecting the stringers I determined they are still solid so I elected to cut and remove only the rear portion of the top cap to replace the transom. I plan to use seacast unless someone talks me out of it.

There are a few posts that document transom replacement on similar model skeeters but they don't go into much detail on specifics. I find myself with a few questions.

1. How much of a strucural roll does the rear portion of the top cap play in the transom? Basically am I glassing for strength or cosmetics?

2. When glassing the cutout back on, what do you do about the pieces of plywood that were cut durring removal?

3. I'm on a tight budget so I need to spend as little as possible while still ensuring the repairs are done properly to ensure my wife and sons safety aboard the boat. I'm not looking for shortcuts but any suggestions on materials and methods that may save me some money would be greatly appreciated.
 

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mickyryan

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1 not just cosmetic its to help structure would replace it as it would improve strength.
2. you replace the wood with good wood most folks use exterior plywood but marine would be best of product for wood , there are other options as in composites , also sea cast .
if you search these forums for transom replacement you will find plenty of options and methods that folks have used .
 

Gonefishing85

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1 not just cosmetic its to help structure would replace it as it would improve strength.
2. you replace the wood with good wood most folks use exterior plywood but marine would be best of product for wood , there are other options as in composites , also sea cast .
if you search these forums for transom replacement you will find plenty of options and methods that folks have used .
the wood I was referring to is the wood in the rails. I can't see replacing these
 

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mickyryan

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yeah its structural I believe for mounting cleats or whatever else was on back part plus it does add to str of glass but eh if you aren't mounting anything I guess its your call
 

Gonefishing85

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I suppose I can replace them. It was just never mentioned in any of the posts I have read. I am not sure if they were replaced or just somehow fastened/bonded back together.
 

Woodonglass

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The wood on either side of the main transom is not the load bearing structural part of the boat. They're there to reinforce those sections and as long as the wood is good, dry and not rotting, I agree with you that they wouldn't need to be replaced. Having said that, unless you're 100% certain they are Good to Go, you should go ahead and do it. Cost to do so would be minimal and time would be too.
 

Gonefishing85

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The wood on either side of the main transom is not the load bearing structural part of the boat. They're there to reinforce those sections and as long as the wood is good, dry and not rotting, I agree with you that they wouldn't need to be replaced. Having said that, unless you're 100% certain they are Good to Go, you should go ahead and do it. Cost to do so would be minimal and time would be too.

Either I'm not reading your post correctly or there is confusion as to what I'm actually asking. My transom runs the full width of the stern. All of the transom plywood is soaking wet and rotten. It will be replaced entirely. The wood I am concerned with is the plywood in the rail of the top cap and the 6 inch wide peices that run paralel to the fuel compartment hatch. These peices of plywood had to be cut to remove the rear portion of the top cap. The pieces in the rail are no doubt for backing when ataching items to the rail. The ones around the hatch are apparently to support the hatch. Neither tie in to the transom. The wood is in perfect condition. I am certain that I would be fine just glassing everything back up but I would like to know if that assumption is wrong.
 

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Woodonglass

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I keep telling everyone that I AM a Dumb Old Okie and once more it has been proven to be true!!! My answer is still the same. When you begin the :Go Back, you'll need to adhere some Cleats to the area that's been cut. Fill the cut lines with thickened resin and then a layer of 1708 to strengthen the joint.
 

Gonefishing85

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I keep telling everyone that I AM a Dumb Old Okie and once more it has been proven to be true!!! My answer is still the same. When you begin the :Go Back, you'll need to adhere some Cleats to the area that's been cut. Fill the cut lines with thickened resin and then a layer of 1708 to strengthen the joint.

I decided to replace the stringers as far forward as I can without removing the top cap. Basically I am doing the exact same as this http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...-repair/9194349-1989-skeeter-sd-125-bass-boat except my inner transom skin is fully intact and I intend to use seacast. I need a detailed list of fiberglass materials I will need.
 
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Woodonglass

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Have you confirmed that the stringers towards the bow are OK. If not just doing the rear sections won't make it a safe boat.
 

Gonefishing85

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Have you confirmed that the stringers towards the bow are OK. If not just doing the rear sections won't make it a safe boat.

No I have not. It's somewhat irrelevant as I don't have the ability to remove the entire top cap. I'm going to replace them as far forward as I can which is to the fuel tank. Fortunately all my local waterways are small. I intend to piggyback off the work I'm doing now when I have some time and space this winter.
 

Woodonglass

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It's your boat and you can do as you see fit. Just know that if the stringers are wet and rotting towards the bow the work you do may all be in vain. The link you referenced had good dry stringers going forward confirmed by core sampling.

I wish you well
 

Gonefishing85

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It's your boat and you can do as you see fit. Just know that if the stringers are wet and rotting towards the bow the work you do may all be in vain. The link you referenced had good dry stringers going forward confirmed by core sampling.

I wish you well

I hate to disagree with you. You are correct that what I am proposing is not ideal but it is all I can do for now. I have read the referenced link many many times prior to deciding to dive into the project. This is a direct quote

"I am quite sure the wood is rotted much further up the hull, but due to the circumstances I am only going to be able to run new wood as far as I can reach. I will tie it in to the hull and the center wood as best I can. Something is better than nothing."

What I need to know is what type and weight glass I will need. And what is the stuff referenced as pb?
 

Woodonglass

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I stand corrected. His assumption that something is better than nothing is false and I should have stated so back then. PLEASE is thickened resin using camisole. 2 layers of 1708 fabric and resin
 

Gonefishing85

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I stand corrected. His assumption that something is better than nothing is false and I should have stated so back then. PLEASE is thickened resin using camisole. 2 layers of 1708 fabric and resin

Ok. Well I'm going to do what I can and stay on small water till I can fully rebuild this winter. By small I mean small. The biggest being 236 acres. Nothing high speed. Just a lot of trolling shorelines with the electric.
 

Gonefishing85

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As long as you're not crossing high wakes or waves you'll be A-OK

Yah. So other than cutting flooring out to core sample, how can I get an idea of the soundness of the stringers? I've also heard that sometimes the wood is only used as a sacrificial form for the fiberglass. How do I know if my boat relies on the wood or if the fiberglass is sufficient?
 
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