Starcraft SS16 Floor Repair Help

[dozerII]

This on e I sanded because the original paint was in decent condition, sanding is a real pain with all the rivet heads to deal with. It would be real easy to at a thin sheet of aluminum over the inside of the transom prior to putting the splash well back in.

Here's a link to the rebuild on the 18SS http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...s-here-we-go-again?t=476671&highlight=dozerii

 

[Patfromny]

I agree. It does not appear that it was ever even laminated or epoxied. This boat has been stored in a garage it's entire life... I can't imagine how bad it would be had it been left in the elements.

Thanks for the advice on the replacement. I'm guessing the time to do that would be at the same time I'm doing the deck?

I would do both at the same time. I wouldn't use the boat with that transom. The bolts look to be pulled half way through the wood. I do not own a starcraft, my tinny is a Crestliner, so I am just guessing but I think you have to remove the splash well to replace the transom. This will be the tedious part of the job. The one bright spot is that the cabin will be wide open for the floor replace job. I used marine plywood and epoxy to seal the wood but this option is expensive. Someone here will chime in about other options if you want to save some money. Exterior plywood is used often as well as Aruca (sp) Plywood from one of the box stores. There is also an old timers wood sealing formula floating around to seal the wood. I personally would use epoxy if you are going to leave the wood exposed in the splashwell.

 

[Patfromny]

That looks fantastic! Well done. Now I'm staring to think that if I have the deck and transom off, might as well paint all the yellow that's up on the gunwales, etc. Did you have to strip or sand the old stuff off before painting the aluminum?

I think if the paint is sound you can scuff sand it with 220 or 320 to give it teeth. Then prime and paint. If the paint is chalky or failing in anyway you should strip it. If you strip the paint to bare metal there are a few more steps involved before painting. There is a sticky at the top of this category on how to paint bare aluminium. Basically you have to neutralize the metal with vineger and water then etch prime, then clean metal prime, then paint. Real quick explanation but there are others here with much more experience than me that will guide you there when the time comes.

 

[recka81]

One more question - after your advice, I have decided that I will be replacing the deck floor and transom. However, I want to do it in the fall/winter so that we can still use the boat this season. So, my question is this: Will the temporary patch I installed (pressure treated wood) be detrimental to the aluminum hall in one season (fresh water use only) or will I be OK for a few months?

Many thanks.

 

[Patfromny]

My advice would be to fix the transom before you use the boat. I would also take the pressure treated out and put in exterior grade plywood. If it is only going to be for the season you won't even have to treat it. Pressure treated can do damage in one season. The engine bolts are half way through that wood. Pull on the engine and see how much flex you have in the transom wood. If it flexes, which I think it will, it can stress crack the aluminium hull over the course of the season. The engine can also pull through the transom and bend the back skin or worst case just fall off. You will need more than larger washers to patch the transom. Something like 1/4" thick aluminium plate cut to fit the splash well in between the drain holes with new holes for the engine through it. Then use longer bolts to make up the new thickness. This is not what I would do but if you want to use it, it is your boat.