Patch or Replace Rotted Transom

[benlandes]

Was recently gifted a 1984 Bayliner with a rot issue in the transom. I knocked along the hull and it sounds fairly solid across the transom from the outside so maybe the damage is limited. I was hoping that I could remove section rotted wood, epoxy in plywood (2' x 1.5') to replace the removed wood, and fiberglass over the patch. My plan was to do this from the inside so I do not have to remove the motor or cut away the motor basin and seats near the transom. Is this a solid plan or am I being too optimistic and need to do a full replace?

 

[fhhuber]

Unfortunately... I expect you'll find the rot has started to affect all of the transom and you'll have to do the whole thing.

If you do not remove all of the wood that is even damp... its going to rot on out again in a short time.

 

[ondarvr]

You will need to remove the motor, that will be the easy part. Knocking on wood doesn't really tell you anything.

You should start reading other threads on "rot" or "soft spot", you should find a few months of reading.

 

[bruceb58]

Need to start drilling test holes on the inside to see how far the cancer is. May not be worth the effort if it is extensive.

 

[turtles11756]

that transom is done .and the only way to do it correct is remove the deck from the hull. BIG job .start by getting the engine on a stand

 

[Grub54891]

In my opinion, Patching is not an option unless you actually have solid wood everywhere else. Then comes the patch. If you just cut out the bad area and butt up new wood, you have a weak joint. It must be stepped or lapped properly, and it may be pretty hard to get the new to bond with the old. I've seen patch jobs that fail. I believe a complete transom replacement is the best way to go. Then ya move on to the stringers.......

 

[jbcurt00]

Knock test isnt a reliable method to test.

Check another recent member's topic:

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...l-repair/10173605-1976-sea-ray-srv195-project

 

[Woodonglass]

Is this a solid plan or am I being too optimistic and need to do a full replace?

Yes! Experience tells me and the majority or the members on this forum that your transom is in need of a full replacement. In addition, in order to do the replacement it will be necessary to either cut the splashwell at the gunwales and a portion of the deck. When you cut the deck you may also discover that the stringers will be in need of repair. Boats of this vintage, often times need a total restoration...Deck, Stringers and Transom Lots of examples of this here on the forum. Keep us informed of what you plan to do and post pics so we can see what you see.

 

[benlandes]

Took the motor off and started peeling away the rotted wood. I found wood that was pretty solid and dry with 3/4'' left of the transom. I'm going to come back with my dremel to do more investigating.






I don't know if it would be worth it for me if I have do do a full replacement and there seems to be some good wood so I'm trying to think up some more unconventional fixes. Here's my latest plan:

1) Remove all the bad wood in the transom and the stringers
2) Reinforce the board between the stringers right behind the metal gas tank. Add corner bracket between board and stringers
3) Fiberglass over the left over wood in the transom and stringers that is still solid and dry using a bunch of layers of fiberglass.
4) Add steel plate over the fiberglass (while it is still wet) where the engine will be attached.
5) Run adjustable braces between steel plate and metal bracket in corner.

I attached a diagram that will hopefully make that plan make sense. My hope is the braces will transfer some load forward where the stringers are still completely solid. The pressure from the steel plate will also help the cure be stronger. I think the combination of the new fiberglass plus the steel plate with braces will make up for the loss of structural support from the removed wood.

 

[Grub54891]

Steel plate will rust in short order, A proper fix is replacing the rotted wood as I stated before. Glassing over the new wood with proper tabbing and tabbing on the stringers/ hull will be more than strong enough. You still have to grind all areas down to clean glass for the repair. I've seen to many boats with steel plate to reinforce them, and people trying to sell them. They sit for many years as people see a potential problem with the patch. If fixed properly, with pictures, it may sell pretty easily.​Not saying you are wanting to sell anytime soon, but we all get 2 foot-itis at some point.

 

[mxcobra]

I know its a hard pill to swallow bro, but that aint going to work.steel has no place in a glass boat transom. every single 80's and earlier Bayliner is roted and needs trashed or restored. when it comes to boating every one in your vessel, lifes are in youre hands. including the saftey of others around you... At my local lake peaple bring. old rotted boats they find, on craigs, or get for free from who knows were, and SINK them, every day....

 

[Glaze71]

I am by no means a professional at boat repair, amateur at best. However, I am well versed in fibreglass repair and was a metal worker with metallurgy and decades of welding experience. Sandwiching bare metal between fibreglass would work if metal was roughed up with course sandpaper. I would though get an aluminum plate instead. As long as it's sandwiched and hidden, I see no reason value of the boat would go down. Forgive me if I'm out of line as a newbie. I may be dumb about boats but I understand structure very well. Now let the flaming begin...

 

[jbcurt00]

Glaze, I dont think Ben intended to bury the metal plate, just install it while the resin was still soft, but wholly to the exterior fore and aft side of the transom.

No reason to be deliberately provacative and encourage flaming replies, that isnt remotely helpful to anyone, particularly Ben.

Ben,
Yep, it is a lot of work to replace a transom. Seems like you plan to do a good bit of work, stop short of replacing the transom (stringers too) and cobble together a system of suspect support/plates and brackets and hope it all holds together well enough to get by. I doubt you'll find much, if any support from our memners for your plan.

You would be well served to stop demo now and spend some time learning whats necessary to replace the transom and stringers properly, what materials will be needed and how best to install them.