Boat Floor

Twainer

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I started this project nearly 10 years ago. Between the Great Recession, moving, no money, & then no time it just didn't get completed. Now I have a little more time & money I am wanting to get it put back together & maybe get it on the water this year. I thought I did a good job for my first time doing any glass work & it looked good when it was finished but now that I have taken the cover off I noticed a few areas where it had bubbled up & spider webbed.
When I did it I replaced or re-built any bad stringers. Glued & screwed (exterior screws) the plywood to the stringers. Layered seems 3 to 4 times with fiber glass strips. Then fiber glassed the whole floor 2 or 3 more times.
My question is can I go ahead & lay carpet or do I need to grind this down & put down another layer of glass?
 

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Woodonglass

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If it's bubbled and cracked it needs to be repaired. If not, water can and will penetrate and ruin the wood.;)
 

Twainer

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That's what I figured. I have put this much time in it I might as well get it done right before I carpet it. Not looking forward to getting the grinder/sander back into the glass! :(
 

Twainer

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If it's bubbled and cracked it needs to be repaired. If not, water can and will penetrate and ruin the wood.;)

Hey WG what would have caused this? I do not want to make the same mistake again. I haven't found anything else I have glassed look like this. It goes down two layers worth so it's not going all the way down to the wood. It's like something with the second layer of glass didn't agree with the third. As I said on the first post it has been 10 years so I don't recall everything that I did. I do know I used the same brand resin for all of it. Put two layers of glass strips on the seams & three layers of CSM over the whole floor.
I have another crazy idea I would like to run by everyone. I am going to be laying carpet down as soon as I repair the floor but before I do I was thinking of spraying the floor with 2 or 3 coats of that flex seal advertised on tv instead of top side paint. Does anyone know if that will cause a bad chemical reaction with the fiberglass? Just thought since it stays flexible that it would be just one more layer of protection for the floor.
 

Woodonglass

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There could be many things that caused the bubbles. The glass could have been contaminated is the most likely cause. What kind of resin were you using? How long between layers?
 

Twainer

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There could be many things that caused the bubbles. The glass could have been contaminated is the most likely cause. What kind of resin were you using? How long between layers?

Was a while back but I think I used polyester resin from West Marine. Seems really flexible to be poly but I can't imagine I could afford epoxy at the time.
Between layers I was either waiting a few hours until lightly tacky or few days & lightly sanded & cleaned before next layer.
 

Woodonglass

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As long as it wasn't Waxed resin then laying down the next layer when the first one was tacky was OK. If it WAS waxed resin and you let it set a few days then you would need to sand with 80 grit and wipe down with acetone before the next layer. If the glass won't absorb the resin then it has to be contaminated.
 

Twainer

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As long as it wasn't Waxed resin then laying down the next layer when the first one was tacky was OK. If it WAS waxed resin and you let it set a few days then you would need to sand with 80 grit and wipe down with acetone before the next layer. If the glass won't absorb the resin then it has to be contaminated.

Thanks again for the info. I think I am going to patch the areas that I have ground out & then go over the whole floor again with a layer of cloth.
 

Twainer

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Nobody has responded about the Flex Seal...so does that mean it's a dumb idea? Come on the guy says "it could save you thousands!" I think it would work great for an extra layer but the fiber glass & carpet glue might not like it. By the way the carpet guy said I should use latex multi purpose glue for the carpet as it doesn't adversely affect the fiber glass. True?
 

texaskidd1

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I have a question in relation to the Flex Seal kinda. I picked up a old boat as a project. The floor was all rotted as I found out and needs replacing, have not started a real project yet. But talking to a friend over how to make things cool and different and dreaming, he said why put down carpet or vinyl why not Rino Coat. I thought this was a nice idea as a alt to carpet, I would love to hear others views and any comments on this. Thanks.
 
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Woodonglass

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You can buy Weldwood Contact Cement at Lowes or Home Depot in the paint Dept.

Some "Rhino Liners" are better than others. It's been tried with Mixed Results. Some like it others reported that It peeled off after a short while. It's totally up to you but It Must go on fresh wood and Not on wet rotting wood.
 

Twainer

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I wasn't going to use the rubberized sealer alone on the wood. Was going to put it on top of the glass instead of the top coat paint. Just thought it would be one more layer of insurance on my floor but I will just stick with my initial plan.
Next question... how long do I need to let the glass dry before I can apply the top coat paint on the floor? Should I even be bothering to put a coat on the floor before I lay down the carpet? I don't mind the cost or labor but will it interfere with the glue for the carpet?
 

Woodonglass

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No paint. Just add some surfacing wax to the last coat of resin. Wait 24 hrs. Lightly sand the surface with 80 grit then apply the glue and carpet.
 

Twainer

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No paint. Just add some surfacing wax to the last coat of resin. Wait 24 hrs. Lightly sand the surface with 80 grit then apply the glue and carpet.

Another rookie question. I am using poly resin so where does one get the "surfacing wax"?
 

mickyryan

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Apr 18, 2016
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that the flex seal you see on tv? I just saw a commercial for it , seems to me its just liquid rubber that you roll on , just like the bedliner stuff except maybe that is neoprene? it seems like a great idea hell id buy one of those bedliner rollers and use it with that so you have some grip surface.
I would say as withy any coating prep is key sand clean and apply.
 
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