1991 MIRROCRAFT TROLLER XL REBUILD/RESTORE

[Mark72233]

Dignified09@gmail.com, the white plastic tube is just a dust cover for the end of the steering cable. As you turn the wheel in one direction the cable loops around the U turn and the end which is covered or should be covered in grease will enter into that dust cover keeping the greasy end of the cable from drooping and getting everything nasty under the helm and prevent dirt and moisture from getting on the end of the cable.

 

[Mark72233]

If you need to separate or remove the cable from the steering box pull that pin out and push a small punch down into the small hole depressing a collar which releases the cable and you can pull the cable away from the steering box. If that makes sense. That's if you need to.

 

[Tnstratofam]

Since you have the steering wheel off already I would disconnect the steering cable from the engine and then remove the steering box and cable as one piece. Or simply leave it in the boat and work around it, but I would definitely not leave the throttle and shifter cables or the steering conected to the engine for removal. It will make moving the engine around a pain.

You will need to get a manual at some point for your engine to adjust the throttle and shifter cables during reassembly.

f you are concerned about removing things engine side, post questions in the motor forum for your engine's manufacturer in a new thread.

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

If you need to separate or remove the cable from the steering box pull that pin out and push a small punch down into the small hole depressing a collar which releases the cable and you can pull the cable away from the steering box. If that makes sense. That's if you need to.

Thanks for the reply, Doing this will not wreck the steering at all? I ask because the message engraved on the piece says 'dissassembly of this unit can lead to steering failure'

I think I am going to leave that AS IT IS and just disconnect the thickest cable (picture 5) of my motor pictures.

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

Since you have the steering wheel off already I would disconnect the steering cable from the engine and then remove the steering box and cable as one piece. Or simply leave it in the boat and work around it, but I would definitely not leave the throttle and shifter cables or the steering conected to the engine for removal. It will make moving the engine around a pain.

You will need to get a manual at some point for your engine to adjust the throttle and shifter cables during reassembly.

f you are concerned about removing things engine side, post questions in the motor forum for your engine's manufacturer in a new thread.

Thanks for replying, I have the manual for the motor :happy:

Are all these throttle and shifter systems similar or the same as far as connecting to a motor? I guess my main thought here is 'you cant go disconnecting just anything.' I just want to make sure I am taking apart the right nuts and what not.

Reason I ask is because it looks like a few nuts that connect them, but which nuts to fiddle with to get them disconnected? I do not want to mess the cables up at all. (as in, I do not want to replace the steering/throttle/shifting system!!)

THANKS!

-Zach

 

[classiccat]

Thanks for replying, I have the manual for the motor :happy:

Are all these throttle and shifter systems similar or the same as far as connecting to a motor? I guess my main thought here is 'you cant go disconnecting just anything.' I just want to make sure I am taking apart the right nuts and what not.

Reason I ask is because it looks like a few nuts that connect them, but which nuts to fiddle with to get them disconnected? I do not want to mess the cables up at all. (as in, I do not want to replace the steering/throttle/shifting system!!)

THANKS!

-Zach

"having" and "reading" are 2 different things :lol: In all seriousness, is it the factory service manual? They're typically cook-book style for many standard things...such as cable adjustments. :thumb:

In general, o/b motors have:

• mechanical throttle cable (left nut in the image probably connects it to the O/B linkage/shift-rod...right nut is a keeper)
• mechanical shift cable (left nut in the image probably connects to the O/B carb throttle linkage...right nut is a keeper)
• steering cable (+1 on keeping it connected to the steering box & disconnect at the motor)
• an electrical cable that runs to your remote motor control
• power (from battery)
• fuel line (quick disconnect).

That said, questions specific to the O/B itself should really be handled in the Mercury/Mariner forum.

It looks like a bracket (2 bolts) allows you to remove both throttle / shift cables together once you remove the "left nuts" preserving the keeper settings.

(I've never wrenched on a Mariner so you'll want to verify that in the manual &/or M/M forum)

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

I think Im making mountains out of some molehills guys. (about the motor cables) ill be taking a look at that manual and doing a little reading today.

Also I have my motor stand constructed and will be moving the outboard today.

 

[Tnstratofam]

Classiccat is spot on. I would remove the throttle and shifter cables from the motor by unbolting the far left nuts in the picture, but then leave the cables attached to the bracket to retain correct adjustment. Then remove that bracket completely from the motor setting it to the side during the repair. You may have to move the cables around a bit, but in the long run it won't be to bothersome I don't think.

On the steering cable the large nut on the sleeve at the motor loosens completely, then there should be a pin or bolt on the other side of the steerinr rod you remove. Then the steering rod should slide out of the sleeve. It can be a little stuborn as the grease in the sleeve can get old and stiff. The cable and bar do not come apart, and you may have to get a little creative in getting the bar to slide out with the cable.

In the Starcraft transom repair in my sig line I go through the steps of removing the controls, and steering rod, and wirring for my Chrysler. It should give you a good idea of what is involved.

Your motor will be slightly different, and you should take pictures of all connections before you disconnect them so you'll have good references for reassembly.

Again for specific questions reguarding the wirring and throttle and shift cables you should start a thread in your motor manufacturers forum. Every manufacturer have there own nuances when it comes to the way they set up their motors.

 

[Tnstratofam]

Oh and by the way my Chrysler's throttle and shifter cables ran up into the cowling, and were not conected to one bracket. It meant I had to readjust both during reassembly, but your set up looks much easier to retain their settings.

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

Hey guys, I've been real busy this past weekend/week. But I've finally got the Hull stripped down completely.

I will be posting pics this weekend, my boss gave me the day off tomorrow so I will really be kicking this project into high as gear as possible.

I have many questions to come but to anyone reading this in the meanwhile I need to know these things please:

The transom is out, the Hull is down to the bare. I am ready to construct the new transom.

It is 1 1/2" thickness.
Which means I will have to use 2 sheets of 3/4"?
What kind of glue to seal them together/ what method to clamp them?
C clamps?

Also what sealant or epoxy to use on the wood? I have many pieces to cut out and seal.

How long does the epoxy'd pieces of wood need to dry or cure? I have read anywhere from a few days to a few weeks?

Where do I get the epoxy from? I've called local marine store and they said they don't sell them.

I live in Minnesota, anybody know of where I can buy it? Otherwise I will have to order it online I guess.

But I really need the epoxy as I am at the step of getting the new transom made.

Pics are coming soon!

Cheers guys, fishing season is upon us!

 

[Tnstratofam]

Tightbond III wood glue for the plywood pieces.
As many clamps as you have with even pressure across the face and back of the wood.
You can use 2x4's across the face and back with clamps at each end.
In a pinch you can lay the plywood on a good flat floor and stand as much weight evenly across it as you have.

You can use woodonglass' Old Timers Formula to seal the wood versus epoxy as you will have to add a UV stabilizer to epoxy or paint it.
Do a search on the restoration forum for the formula.

Another alternative is Spar Varnish. Three coats front and back with Six coats on the edges. Drying time will vary based on your temps and humidity, but usually only a couple of hours between coats or even less if it's warm enough.

Use either marine grade plywood or a good exterior grade for your transom and deck. Try to check the edges of the plywood for voids. You want to have none or as few as possible. Do Not Use Pressure Treated Wood anywhere in your build as it contains chemicals that can leach out and corrode the aluminum.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[Frey0357]

Everything tnstratofam stated is right on! Marine grade wood is the best, but not required. Exterior grade plywood (with exterior grade glue, typically dark in color) works well at less than 1/2 the price! Good sealant is key to a lasting transom core, IMO. For me I used the WOG mixture and it soaked in and covered very good, with a couple coats of straight spar to really seal. It takes a little time, but take the time required otherwise you will be doing this again. Ensure that the wood you use for anything on your aluminum boat is NOT pressure treated.

Frey

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

Everything tnstratofam stated is right on! Marine grade wood is the best, but not required. Exterior grade plywood (with exterior grade glue, typically dark in color) works well at less than 1/2 the price! Good sealant is key to a lasting transom core, IMO. For me I used the WOG mixture and it soaked in and covered very good, with a couple coats of straight spar to really seal. It takes a little time, but take the time required otherwise you will be doing this again. Ensure that the wood you use for anything on your aluminum boat is NOT pressure treated.

Frey

I will for surely be using marine grade wood.

The floor was constructed with 1/2" ply , and I am wondering if I should go with 1/2" again, or step up to 3/4" .

The wood situation has me a bit stumped at the moment. I want to make sure I get the most out of the sheets. When I say 'the most' I factor in my dimensions and also smaller pieces I need to cut. I don't want to have huge wasted chunks of wood.

I will be posting the dimensions of the transom piece and the floor and maybe someone could chime in.

Right now I am thinking that if I buy 2 sheets I should be OK. (I would cut 2 pc of 3/4" from one sheet for the transom and use the left over for the front portion of the floor.

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

Good morning everyone.

Heres my latest updates, I am hoping to get some good progress done this weekend.

Will not be ready to hit the water by opener next weekend but my goal is to have her all done by July 4th. Of course we all know life can get in the way but I will be cramming as much time as possible into the Mirrocraft.

Hull has been cleaned to the best of my ability (gonna pressure wash it as well to accommodate the work I need to do on it.)

Transom is out:

Splashwell will stay in place, I don't really see a need to remove it, unless someone else says otherwise.

Transom came quietly, and even better, in ONE SOLID PIECE! It was pretty solid actually IMO, but hey... no turning back now.

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

Heres the hull flipped over ready for body work:

As pictured, oxidation seems to be an issue, that will need to be addressed. This is throughout the entire hull. I will need advice on this. I have read numerous posts about 50/50 vinager water mixture. as well as products to help with this but honestly I am confused on this subject. I was reading about sharkhide? someone mentioned G Flex? also plan on using gluvit on the insides?

I also found this post which seemed very informative of the subject but am not too sure?

heres the link: http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...dation-pitting

(I performed a water test and marked off spots where water was dripping but my intention is to just fully use some products everywhere (if that makes sense to people?)

The seams were dripping pretty good on each side more toward the stern ends. (I have a video posted of my test on page 1 or 2 for anyone looking to see it.

also, the seams seem to be filled with something that i do not know what it is. (could have been previous owner work?? maybe factory?? in some areas it is spread on thick like in the picture and others its barely there.) but if you look at the last picture in this post you will see it. (it is semi soft, as in i can push my fingernail onto it and it will leave an indentation)

Will this need to be removed with stripper?

​ More to come guys, stay tuned and subscribe :biggrin1:

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

I also have the ORIGINAL TRAILER which is pretty cool!

My father is a professional painter and blaster which is also a bonus (he got excited and did some of the front half in the picture, But i told him we needed to do it all, with most components off) so we have decided to go ahead and give it a full makeover as well.

I spent a few hours yesterday getting it stripped down. ill be getting all new wiring, rollers, chain links, etc.

Check it out:

 

[Dignified09@gmail.com]

Now back to the oxidation issue.... I have read and come to figure that this oxidation could have came from 1 of 2 things. (That I can think of atleast.

and it all backtracks to how people have mentioned "DO NOT USE ANY PRESSURE TREATED WOOD ON YOUR ALUMINUM BOAT"

Heres what I think may have caused it? chime in please.

1. The previous owner took the front seating out and replaced it with a casting deck.
(it looks as if the plywood is 3/4'' thickness but I have no idea if he used marine grade wood or not. does anybody know how to tell?) Also I doubt he sealed this with any epoxy or anything, which im not too worried about as the piece is easily unscrewed and replaceable.

heres my other theory:

2. after taking the hull off of the trailer, the runners? i dont know what you call them. (in which the boat sits upon) were wood. (2x4s or something of that nature covered with carpet)

Could these be the source of how it happened? do they usually come from the factory made out of wood like that?

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

I'll throw my ?2 in,

Looks like your old trans wood slid out w/o problems so you're good to leave the SW alone and just slide the new in.

Unless the boat was used in saltwater my guess on your corrosion is that someone has used a brightener of some sort on the hull and didn't thoroughly rinsed it off as the spots look to be where it would have collected and dripped off. If it(corrosion) was from the trailer bunks it would be loacalized to that area and if it was from a deck of PT it would be on the inside, plus from the pics it looks to be in the wrong places to have leaked from the inside. That make sense?

know it always makes you wonder what happened so you can avoid it in the future but the cause doesn't change the solution. Clean up the bottom with brushing/sanding to whatever your planned finish is (paint/brushed/polished), then if bare yes Sharkhide seems to be the bee's knees. (I plan on using it on the Jet)

The factory puts sealant in the seams when they build the boat so that's what you see there now (judging from the pics). In my mind Gflex is way to pricey to be trying to seal seams. I would do a standard rebuck/replace on any leakers you have and Gluvit/Coat it/ect. the seams, then re-leaktest and see where you are.

Your making good progress and at least your a step ahead of most just by having someone to help take care of the trailer with blasting and painting.

 

[Watermann]

Nice boat for your first project! :thumb: I've not seen any tin boats with the blend of a glass cap and a riveted hull. Looking forward to seeing her get back on the water.

You certainly have your hands full with the corrosion on this one, I had some similar issues to overcome with my Chief, she was a salty old dog. One reason to remove the splashwell is to properly clean the inner transom skin so it goes back together free of corrosion. Any place on the old transom wood where you see white will have corresponding corrosion and pitting on the skin.

 

[Watermann]

The first step in corrosion remediation is to thoroughly clean the hull inside and out so the really bad spots and holes can be located. Cleaning where there's corrosion is a process of removing all the oxidization (white discoloration) using fine wire wheels, cup brush or nylox wheel to reveal pitting underneath. Once the hull is clean you can post some pics of the worst and we can go from there.