Project Fish A̶n̶d̶ ̶S̶k̶i̶

aNskY

Cadet
Joined
Mar 28, 2016
Messages
7
I want to thank this forum and everyone who contributes for the vast wealth of knowledge. Had i not found this board and spent hours reading and watching, this hull would probably be in a landfill. But instead I now have the confidence to make it a project.

Its a 1990 sea ray 160. Fish A̶n̶d̶ ̶S̶k̶i̶ because i'm building it to go fishing, not to ski, although we will do that occasionally.

I started ripping it apart because the deck around the ski locker and fuel tank were collapsed. what i found was everything soaked. So i cut the deck off and chopped out all of the foam.

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this guy was between the layers where the deck was reinforced for the pedestal seat

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kept cutting and chopping

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got almost all of it out, and started grinding out the stringers. I quit because i need to get different disks for my grinder.

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so i decided to start working on the transom. first i built the stand that i found on here

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then i cut the cap off of the transom and started drilling. started with a 1/2" feeler then 1" auger.

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and then chainsaw. i thought i'd be able to feel the glass, but that wasnt the case on the inside edges. nothing that cant be fixed! i got most of it out but still have some to do. dont want to anger the neighbors on sunday night

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and here is my transom on the floor

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time's limited the next few weeks, but im going to start a material list and get ordering.
 

dOb

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Messages
244
Looks like you're off to a good start. It's hard to tell from the pics, but it looks like you had to cut away some off the support for the console (dash). If you plan on doing the work with the cap attached, I would suggest supporting the console in some way. Maybe hook a strap and tie to a rafter in the garage. Over time the cap will bend and change shape. Sometimes not a big deal, but it can mess with your windshield alignment and just getting everything straight again.

Nice job on the transom demo!
 

aNskY

Cadet
Joined
Mar 28, 2016
Messages
7
Thanks dOb! I actually figured that out quickly when i used the starboard console as a support to pull myself up from a laying position and cracked the gelcoat where the console meets the gunnel. I have eye bolts in the ceiling where she rests, but i need to put a couple more a few feet forward because she barely fits in my garage and i often need to pull the trailer tongue out a few feet to work on her.
 

aNskY

Cadet
Joined
Mar 28, 2016
Messages
7
spent a few hours on her today. i ground around a couple areas that i went through the hull with the skillsaw when i first cut the deck on the port side. there are 2 cuts that are both about 2-3" long. i didnt take any pics of this but i think youve all seen it 100 times lol.

then i finished up transom demo. to patch those holes in the side im thinking 1 layer of woven and 1 layer of 1708 on the inside before i pour. open to suggestions here.

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and got most of the starboard stringer out.

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would it be acceptable to leave that existing tabbing that is left? its quite a thick buildup of glass, especially up in the bow section. what im thinking is to clean it out really well, put some pb inside and use it as a guide to slide the new stringer in, then tab to the outside of it. this would save me a ton of grinding.
 
Last edited:

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Trying to use the existing stringer channels is not a good practice. You'll never get a good mechanical bond. I totally understand your reasoning but...you really need to grind em down and start fresh.;) Use a sawzall with a flexible blade to cut the majority of the channel away. this will alleviate a LOT of the grinding.
 
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