Replacing Back to Back Seats in '95 Wellcraft Excel 19 SX

LakeTravisAlpha1

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[FONT=arial, sans-serif]I'm doing a partial restoration on a Wellcraft bow rider which will include a patch job on the floor, new carpet and replacing the rotted, back to back seats. I plan on replacing them with Wise Deluxe Back to Back Lounge Seats, Part # WD707P-1-924. [/FONT]

[FONT=arial, sans-serif]The wood and fiberglass bases of the original seats are still in good shape, while reading the reviews of the Wise seat, the word "flimsy" is used more than once when describing the plastic base and hardware.[/FONT]

[FONT=arial, sans-serif]The dimension of bases that are in there now are 38" L x 12.5" W and 10" tall. The base on the Wise seats are 36" L x 13.5" W and 10" tall.[/FONT]
[FONT=arial, sans-serif]I really don't want to remove the stouter existing bases, that are securely attached, to replace with a light weight plastic base that, by one review, won't hold up to the weight of a 200lb. adult if the boat goes into a lean. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial, sans-serif]The base on the Wise seat is 1/2" wider and 2" shorter than the original base. Can I install the rails of the new Wise seats in the original bases or modify the hardware that comes on the Wise seat to fit the original base?[/FONT]
 
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jbcurt00

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Partial patch job on this deck you described as more mulch then plywood:
I was gifted a Wellcraft Excel that has a rotten deck. There was lots of soggy wood that came out in handfuls, more like tree mulch than it's former plywood. The isle between the seats in the bow I tore out and replaced a cross stringer and floor, the deck down the center over the tank was soft so I tore it out exposing semi rotted stringers on both sides of the tank. The areas behind the rear facing seats on both sides are rotted to the transom but the area in front of the front/rear facing seats including the driver's seat are stable.

The boat has a strong running 3.0 Mercruiser LX that I've serviced and got running, including a new starter and rebuilt carb.
I hopefully fixed a leaking vent hose fitting in the tank today so I've already invested time doing the nastiest, filthiest grunt work I've ever done and spent a few hundred bucks servicing the engine so I want to keep going on this. I need to replace the seats and bow cushions and instruments but I do not want to do a complete gut job. In fact, I was hoping to take up the remaining soft areas behind the seats, lay new 3/4" plywood, re carpet and call it good.

But reading other restoration threads, I'm concerned now with a rotted transom. If it's rotted, and I would be surprised if it isn't, what am I looking at? Again. I don't have the time, budget or inclination to do a complete bow to stern restoration. For now, I just want to get it to a usable level for the summer.
 

LakeTravisAlpha1

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The area under the seats foreword are hard. From the back of the seat bases to the transom are the soft areas I'm replacing. I've already replaced the center isle from the stern to the engine.
 
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mxcobra

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Jun 27, 2011
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Rot as bad as you have described - Means Sinking Boat....
 

LakeTravisAlpha1

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I trust the more experienced mariners here and will cut my losses then. What should I do with the perfectly good engine and stern drive? Craigslist?
Just curious, if the exterior hull is still good how would it sink?
 

GA_Boater

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The strength of the hull is dependent on the guts of the boat. It sounds like your may be gutless or close to it.

Poor condition boats do fall apart at the most inopportune times.
 

Rick Stephens

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If the stringers and transom are mush, applying 130 HP to them can begat a big tear, and then things get exciting.

You should spend the time doing a full eval before proceeding. Then decide to sell, fix or use in another hull.
 
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LakeTravisAlpha1

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No Title

Let me ask you this then. How many days would it take to gut and rebuild a 19' runabout? We live on a property on Lake Travis which is like a year round vacation but it gets brutally hot here also, too hot to tackle the nasty job of gutting and restoring a boat. I would want to get it completed before the upcoming heat makes it prohibitive.
 

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Rick Stephens

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That's tough to answer. I spent six months on a 'simple' transom replacement and motor mount mod for a different engine. Rebuilt motor and drive while I was at it. But half the time was spent hiding from the cold and or waiting for enough warm for epoxy to cure.

Still, a rebuild can be a huge job with lots of stuff to sidetrack you. Doing it the first time is also a time killer. So many tricks to learn. This is the place for that anyway.
 

LakeTravisAlpha1

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I knew a bum who's father was an art professor in one of Texas's most liberal universities in the 70's and 80's. The whole family was dirty, a bunch of glorified hippies that patched and kept everything wired together from the MG the old man drove to their old cabin cruiser, that like everything else they owned, was moldy and rotten inside and out. The son took the boat down to the Texas coast and was miles offshore with a boatload of people when they realized they were taking on water. The bum put on a mask and went overboard to look for the problem. He returned shortly to the surface with the news "We're sinking!" Turned out a big crack had appeared in the bow. There was general panic on deck with one old guy saying "Well I can't swim" as he tried to figure out how to put on some old WWII era life jacket he found. They were somehow able to limp back to shore with the bilge pump on and everyone baling water. Once back home he did what the family would typically do and epoxied a piece of plywood over the hole. I definitely don't want to be that guy.
 

jopes

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I have completely gutted my boat out. Transom had some rot, back side of the stringers had rot by the bilge, and the floor was horrible. I am 5 weeks into it and the hardest part was the sanding and grinding. I finished that today.

Tomorrow I am buying my stringers to put back in and marine plywood for the floor. I already have my resins. I hope it goes smoothly as I was avoiding the sanding and grinding due to itching afterwards. That and it has not been warm enough for the resin to cure.
 

LakeTravisAlpha1

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I have completely gutted my boat out. Transom had some rot, back side of the stringers had rot by the bilge, and the floor was horrible. I am 5 weeks into it and the hardest part was the sanding and grinding. I finished that today.

Tomorrow I am buying my stringers to put back in and marine plywood for the floor. I already have my resins. I hope it goes smoothly as I was avoiding the sanding and grinding due to itching afterwards. That and it has not been warm enough for the resin to cure.


When I see the grinders and respirators in these restorations I assume it's to remove the old glass and resin where the stringers and cross members attached to the hull?

I assumed you had to remove the padded, vinyl trim above the floor and the open bow? If so, was it salvageable and if not what are you planning to replace it with?
 

jopes

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the grinder is used to remove excess glass from the original build. As well as to rough the surface up to give the new resin something to adhere to.

As for the vinyl, I am replacing it all with new cloth. The boat had carpet and I am not replacing the carpet but putting pigment in the resin on the final layer. It's a fishing boat and I want it to keep water out and last.
 

GA_Boater

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I knew a bum who's father was an art professor in one of Texas's most liberal universities in the 70's and 80's. The whole family was dirty, a bunch of glorified hippies that patched and kept everything wired together from the MG the old man drove to their old cabin cruiser, that like everything else they owned, was moldy and rotten inside and out. The son took the boat down to the Texas coast and was miles offshore with a boatload of people when they realized they were taking on water. The bum put on a mask and went overboard to look for the problem. He returned shortly to the surface with the news "We're sinking!" Turned out a big crack had appeared in the bow. There was general panic on deck with one old guy saying "Well I can't swim" as he tried to figure out how to put on some old WWII era life jacket he found. They were somehow able to limp back to shore with the bilge pump on and everyone baling water. Once back home he did what the family would typically do and epoxied a piece of plywood over the hole. I definitely don't want to be that guy.

You just gave the perfect example of what was referred to in post post #6. Except for the fix! :doh:
 

LakeTravisAlpha1

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I really appreciate everyone's responsible advise which steered me in the right direction. Up until last night I thought the stringers were there to hold the floor up.
I've decided to go ahead and do a complete gut and restoration as opposed to a half a** patch job. When I'm finished it will be a clean, safe boat. I'll be asking a bunch of questions and taking pics the whole way so maybe it can help others in the same boat.



Thanks again.
 
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Rick Stephens

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I really appreciate everyone's responsible advise which steered me in the right direction. Up until last night I thought the stringers were there to hold the floor up.
I've decided to go ahead and do a complete gut and restoration as opposed to a half a** patch job. When I'm finished it will be a clean, safe boat. I'll be asking a bunch of questions and taking pics the whole way so maybe it can help others in the same boat.



Thanks again.

RIGHTEOUS!

While I have only done this once, anything I can do to help with sources and methods, ask away. Lots of folks here have done this a bunch of times and will offer loads more and better advice than I. My first timer experience is recent enough that I remember how hard to know what questions to ask. Get some pictures posted and everyone can start working it over.

You'll have fun except for those 100 plus degree days.
 
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