Here goes nothin'... 16 ft aluminum Blue Fin, 1st timer!

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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I would suggest doing the hull repairs first to get into the project and give you time to think about rebuilding nd what you're going to add to the boat. Strip the paint, leak test, replace or re-buck rivets, seal seams and any other repairs found to be needed. Then onto transom replacement and it sounds like you want to add decking so getting going too. That's enough to keep you busy for some time.
 

EddyMoney

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Mar 24, 2016
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Believe it or not guys, but I actually made some progress with the boat - as you can see above.

Basically all I did was remove the middle two benches, both of which had been painstakingly modified by the PO. I then removed the wood beneath, most of which had rotted.

I may end up undertaking a much simpler project then one that I previously suggested. This could just end up with a new floor, replacing the removed bench closest to the bow, and re-painting/carpeting everything (as well as reinstalling flotation foam). I would love to do some cooler stuff like create storage and possibly a live well, but I'm just not sure if it's really feasible for me. In any event, any feedback or ideas as to what I can and can't do or suggestions (literally for my plan, not just the work itself) are appreciated.

For the time being, I stil have some other undertakings. Does anybody have any advice as to how to remove the green grass/carpet and the residual glue? Most of the carpet is out, but a lot of crap has stayed behind. I know it's not a huge deal, but I would like to remove as much of it as possible.

Also, FWIW, there are no leaks and the structure is in pretty good condition. Was fishing on it about a month ago.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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Lot's of work involved tearing down and cleaning up. I had a huge amount of glue all over the inside of my SS and used multiple coats of Klean strip adhesive remover and a pressure washer.

f3029a53-0576-4d1f-bab8-986baa168880_400.jpg
 

EddyMoney

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Mar 24, 2016
Messages
24
Lot's of work involved tearing down and cleaning up. I had a huge amount of glue all over the inside of my SS and used multiple coats of Klean strip adhesive remover and a pressure washer.

f3029a53-0576-4d1f-bab8-986baa168880_400.jpg

Thanks man! Unfortunately they don't sell that stuff in Michigan - so I guess I'll just try to find a product that is similar. If you have an recommendations, send em my way.


I am trying to figure out the best way to do a floor in my boat. Should I try to do any kind of flotation under my floor, or should I just leave the flotation under the benches (I will need to replace the flotation along with the benches, if I do that route).
 

Frey0357

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Mar 13, 2014
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313
EddyMoney,
While adhesive remover can be used to ensure success, I wanted to warn you that likely you will have to use a lot of good 'ole elbow grease to remove the nastiness from your hull, and some power tools. For my vessel I used some aluminum cleaner to scrub the dirt and grease away, then I used a combination of wire wheel and nylon wheel drill attachments to get the tuff stuff off. I did get it off, it just took some time and lots of effort (perhaps beer and the radio helped also!).

Where in Michigan you from? I'm in the Ann Arbor area.....

Oh yeah, as for foam....you need it, just get some in there. Place it under the flooring (it also helps to support the flooring...preventing it from feeling "soft"), or under the benches. You don't want to have that feeling that you should have put some in when water comes over the transom for whatever reason! Likely, it is too late at that point!

Frey
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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13,753
Not sure how much room you'll have under the decking just make sure that water has a place to get to the center and travel aft down the center. Remember wood decking is also buoyant as well.
 

EddyMoney

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Mar 24, 2016
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24
Does anybody know the deal with what photobucket is doing so you can't see the photos I have posted thus far? It's kind of drag with respect to the continuity of this project. I might have an update soon, but am just wondering how I should mitigate the photos issue.
 

jbcurt00

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Oct 25, 2011
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If you have copies of the posted pix, you can edit each post and repost them via direct upload.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Does anybody know the deal with what photobucket is doing so you can't see the photos I have posted thus far? It's kind of drag with respect to the continuity of this project. I might have an update soon, but am just wondering how I should mitigate the photos issue.

A drag was having to restore pics in 4 complete threads, I uploaded them all to OneDrive and embedded the pics here. No way was I going to let PB ruin all my work.
 

EddyMoney

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Mar 24, 2016
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Got the pics thing figured out, thanks guys.

I don't have any pics yet, but I did make some progress getting rid of all the leftover carpet/mesh stuff that is currently attached to the interior of the boat. When I have a chance, I'll knock out the rest and post a pic. I've use a normal paint scraper on most of it and then a wire/metal brush on the tough to get places and it has worked pretty well.

I'm thinking that after that the next logical step will be to focus on re-painting. I know this is a loaded question, but can you guys at minimum point me in the right direction as to how to go about this? Is it best to strip the paint or am I okay with sanding? If I'm sanding, what grit? Does it logically make sense to paint the interior exactly like I paint the exterior? Etc.

Also, Frey, I live in Grosse Pointe, right next to Detroit. This here vessel resides on Houghton Lake, however.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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13,753
Personally I would strip the boat to bare before painting, then lightly sand the bare AL with 220 to break the surface tension and wash thoroughly with cleaning vinegar.

Guys make it sound like it's so easy to "just scuff up" the good paint and paint over it. Not on a riveted boat is that easy, every rivet head will be bare and the paint not scuffed around each rivet unless you hand sand. Then you have a base of decades old chalky paint as a base, not my idea of what's best for the long run.

It's good to think ahead and get a plan, just remember there's the inspection, hull repairs and leak test. The most important part and most time consuming on some boats is this stage.
 

EddyMoney

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Mar 24, 2016
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Fortunately the boat does not require any major (or minor really) hull repairs. No leaks when in the water. So, luckily, I can skip over most of this! There's a couple dents, but from what I've read so far it's best to just leave those alone - thoughts on this?

Anyways, this is great advice Watermann, as well as some excellent considerations to make. Many thanks. I agree with you on the paint, might as well do it right this time if I'm gonna do it.

I've got about a day to focus on the boat while I'm up north, so it's primarily going to be a continued demo phase and paint prepping. Hopefully I can take care of removing all the carpet and get a roll on stripping the paint.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Man that's good news Eddy, many of us spend a couple months repairing our boats after a PO nearly destroyed them. Corrosion, cracks, unwanted holes, rivet replacement to name a few.

Dents, well my train of thought is to not beat on them. I've repaired a few smaller dents and a crease that I didn't like using marine tex but for the most part my boats are to use so I don't care much about a few dock dings. I spend more time inside the boat where you won't ever see the dents rather than on a trailer in a show or parade.
 

EddyMoney

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Mar 24, 2016
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I'm not mad about it for sure! It shouldn't be too long before I can move onto the fun stuff.

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I apologize for these being all sideways and stuff (if any mod can fix this - please do), for whatever reason they come in this way when I upload them. Anyhow, this is the progress I made this weekend. A lot of elbow grease went into this one. Still a small patch to take care of near the starboard bow, but got rid of most of the old carpet crap. Some spots only took about one coat of klean strip, while others took two or three, possibly even four at one point. Shop vac and power washer were also my allies for this part. Hopefully I'll have a chance soon to clean up the rest and move onto stripping the paint.

Also, my dad has a ton of leftover cedar wood planks from a dock plan that he scratched a little while ago, and he was going to give them to me to use. They're nice a lightweight, for what that is worth. Any reason why I should hesitate to use cedar wood for my floor/other parts of the boat?
 

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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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13,753
Hey you're getting her all spiffed up! :encouragement:

Next round of paint remover you have to buy pick up some Jasco, it's 100 times better than the Kleanstrip.

jasco.jpg

Since your BF is a utility model that has/had cross bench seating. If you're wanting to build a flat deck you'll need some deck supports and will have to fabricate them. Take a look at some of the starcraft rebuilds and see what they use, it won't be tough to duplicate the supports, you'll need at least 2.

Then there's the structural issue if you're removing the benches for good and going to a more open layout. That can be overcome easily too with storage boxes and rod locker add ons.
 

EddyMoney

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Mar 24, 2016
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Thanks, I'll check that stuff out for sure.

I haven't decided exactly what I want to do long run... removing all the benches and going for a different design sounds fun, but challenging. I'm thinking I'm going to leave in the back bench (need somewhere to sit with the tiller anyway) and potentially the front bench even with those plans, and having the casting deck sit on part of the front bench. Without the benches, though, flotation becomes a little bit more of a concern. Anyways, before I do all of that the paint comes first, right?

A couple of questions I have right now:

1. I think I have an idea for how I want to paint this, but if anybody wants to shoot out some direction, I'm all ears. I think my dad intends to leave this boat off the dock in the water most of the time, for what that is worth.

2. This might seem like a dumb question, but what do I do with rivets that I take out on the hull that I'm not going to replace? Flex seal them?
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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If you put a deck in then you put flotation foam underneath it.

You have to replace solid rivets as they attach boat structure to the hull and no handy man in a can please!
 

EddyMoney

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Mar 24, 2016
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If you put a deck in then you put flotation foam underneath it.

You have to replace solid rivets as they attach boat structure to the hull and no handy man in a can please!


Yeah, I'm not really talking about parts that actually attach the hull together, I'm mostly talking about like rivets I took out near the tops of the sides that previously held in something I don't need anymore... there's like 4-5 tops, nothing crazy. They're not really a issue, more of an aesthetic thing - if water is starting to get in through these holes, I've got bigger problems.
 
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EddyMoney

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Mar 24, 2016
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Are you guys using spray guns or do you usually just spray from the can? Is it worth it to just have it painted professionally? Thoughts on this? I've never had a paint job undertaking quite like this.
 
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