Fiberglas hatch repair

[ScubaAl]

Hello, I have a 1978 Cruisers Villa Vee. It has 4 hatches in the cockpit area, these are over the engines/trans. Two of these have become waterlogged. The worse one I have cut out the bottom and removed the waterlogged wood core. With spring arriving its now time to finish the repair. Having never worked with fiberglas I'm looking for any suggestions on how to proceed.

Thanks, Al

 

[Woodonglass]

Pix ALWAYS help us to help you!!! Fiberglassing is NOT all that hard but...each application has it's own specific approaches. Pix, will help us to guide you to the best methods.

 

[ScubaAl]

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMLO113mS6sLOFfYNblr8ZwdO78JQQ4g9xn26maTried uploading photo but was too large. Not sure if this will work or not. The hatch is 3X4ft all the balsa wood has been removed it looks like it was around 1/2 inch thick.

 

[Woodonglass]

open a free photobucket account upload your pic then copy and paste the IMG code into iBoats thread.

 

[studioq]

I second the photobucket thing.. Works wonders..

 

[ScubaAl]

[No message]

 

[ScubaAl]

[No message]

 

[Woodonglass]

Well you're gettin there. Each pic has it's own IMG Code If you copy and paste it into your thread it works soooo much better. Like this...





So, lets start again. Based on the pics I believe with a bit more cutting you cut make a full piece of plywood fit in the opending and then glass it all in. It would be strong as ever.

 

[ScubaAl]

Thanks for trying to help out with posting photos. Is there a link/site that has the information I would need to do this work? I'm guessing the water got in through the top or hardware mounting, with that in mind would I use some type of epoxy or other product to coat the underside before installing plywood?

Thanks, Al

 

[harleyman1975]

Al I would just build it back the way it was. it should easily last another 25 years.

 

[Woodonglass]

iBoats IS the Boat Restoration University!!! We'll be glad to assist you. Do you have a dremel tool? Have you done any fiberglass work in the past? Do you have a local fiberglass supplier? Where are you located?

 

[ScubaAl]

iBoats IS the Boat Restoration University!!! We'll be glad to assist you. Do you have a dremel tool? Have you done any fiberglass work in the past? Do you have a local fiberglass supplier? Where are you located?

No dremel, but have grinder, buffers and saws things like that. Never done any fiberglass work in the past, so doing the under side of the hatch seems to be a good place to start I'm located in the Minneapolis area, haven't found a supplier yet but we do have West Marine.
From what I have found online so far after removing and cleaning up the underside of the hatch I would in-bed plywood or some core material in epoxy. Put weight on the plywood/core material to work out any air that might be trapped.
Then fiberglass over the plywood/core material. But like I said I have never worked with fiberglass before. So was hoping for a link that might walk me through this step by step.

Al

 

[Woodonglass]

OK, Al let's get started. Here's what this Old Dumb Okie would do. Trim back that lip as close to the edge as you an get it to allow the plywood to slip in place. Cut the plywood to fit but make it about 1/2 smaller all the way around. You'll need 5 gallons of epoxy. U S C O M P O S I T E S . C O M is a great source for it. The 635 Medium set is what most people use. I'd also recommend 3-4 yards of 6oz E-Glass fabric and 10 qts of cabosil filler. Coat the plywood with epoxy. After it's cured, Mix up what we call Peanut Butter. Epoxy and Cabosil mixed to the consistency of Creamy Peanut butter. Usually about 1 quart of 3/4 quart of epoxy and 1 1/2 quarts of cabosil will give you the proper mix. Use a 3/8" notched trowel to spread the PB onto the hatch surface and the bottom side of the plywood. Make sure it's "Buttered" amply. Press it down into the PB and let the PB ooze out around the edges. Use a Plastic spoon to create a coved fillet around the edges. This makes it easy for the glass cloth to conform to the junction. Cut the fabric to size so it fits the opening and with roll up the edges. Roll on more epoxy and place the fabric. Use a short nap 4" nylon roller to roll it down pouring additional resin on top. Your only need a little more resin because the resin from below will ooze up thru the fabric to wet it out. With fiberglass Less is More. When the glass fibers are saturated with resin you have enuf. No more is needed. Cheap CHIP brushes are handy too. Use them to DAB the fabric in the corner Brushing works sometimes but Dabbing is usually better. Be careful of the fabric Lifting and causing air bubbles. Don't over roll it this is the usual cause of air bubbles Roll from the center out to the edges.

That will get you started. Feel free to ask questions as you move forward.

 

[ScubaAl]

Thanks for the information. If things work out I hope to get started next week.

Al

 

[ScubaAl]

I have a question, should all this be do at one time? Or can the work be broken up into a couple of stages? The reason I ask, is I have found posts where after setting the plywood into the epoxy weight is placed on the plywood to keep it in contact and help eliminate air bubbles under the plywood,

Thanks Al

 

[ondarvr]

You normally do it in stages, set the wood and weight it down, when that's solid you can put glass over it.

 

[Woodonglass]

Yup, that's right! weight it down and fillet the edges when the thickened Peanut Butter oozes out. Next day lay the glass.

 

[ScubaAl]

Thanks guys, Al