Should gluvit be used alone or along with re-riveting (or even just rebucking)?

[jimmwaller]

Hi all,

I have a riveted boat that seems to have some leaks in it. when I fill it up with water, I get some solid dripping, probably a cup in like 15 minutes. I picked up some gluvit, but I also have a hand riveter. I thought about just rebucking, but I worry that I'll either mess it up or maybe it just won't help (my boat is from the 50's, I worry that the sealant between the panels is just too old and that rebucking isn't the best option).

I wonder if some combination of the gluvit and reriveting would be best? But then, should I rerivet first? Or gluvit first? Or just use gluvit by itself?

I worry that if I rerivet first, I may be making the seams to small for gluvit to really get everwhere. but if I gluvit first, could riveting like crack the gluvit? or will it just compress?

Or will gluvit just be fine alone?

Any thoughts would be appreciated, thanks!

 

[jbcurt00]

Re-buck leakers

Re-leak check

Replace leakers w CLOSED END blind rivets, they are stronger then normal 'pop' rivets and closed so they work below the waterline. Dip the rivets in 5200 before installation and cinching.

Re-leak check

Apply GluvIt to seams and rivets


GluvIt is epoxy based and must be protected from UV exposure.

 

[jbcurt00]

How about a pix of this riveted alumimum boat? Maker?

 

[GA_Boater]

Re-buck leakers

Re-leak check

Replace leakers w CLOSED END blind rivets, they are stronger then normal 'pop' rivets and closed so they work below the waterline. Dip the rivets in 5200 before installation and cinching.

Re-leak check

Apply GluvIt to seams and rivets


GluvIt is epoxy based and must be protected from UV exposure.

DITTO Paint any exposed Gluvit or the sun's rays will cause it to degrade and loose the sealing ability.

How about a pix of this riveted alumimum boat? Maker?

DITTO Whatcha got?

 

[Kitch]

GA what do you recommend on the paint for over coating gluvit,cuz that's on my to do list.

 

[jbcurt00]

Ask that in your topic Kitch, since you just posted about your Rusto choice for topsides.

 

[Kitch]

OK, I got ahead of myself!

 

[GA_Boater]

If this is the Aeroline from one of your earlier threads, it seems to be an open boat. So you need something durable if she won't have a deck to walk on. I would use a good paint and Rustoleum with a hardener is very durable and long lasting. The problem could in the prep, as always.

 

[jimmwaller]

Yes, this is the same aeroline. Never built a deck, still just trying to keep her from sinking

Just never really used gluvit before. And this would be kind of a bad thing to screw up!

So the first step is to rebuck rather than to just replace?

thanks

 

[GA_Boater]

Re-bucking and leak testing again is free. Go with the closed head rivets if re-bucking doesn't work.

Gluvit is runny and oozes to the lowest part of the hull. With a small boat you tilt the hull for good coverage. Mix small batches and do smaller sections.

Have you fixed the bow leaking?

 

[jimmwaller]

thanks for the info. I guess I'm not actually concerned with "free", so much as I'm concerned with "doing it right".

I'm happy to rebuck if it's a permanent repair, but my understanding is that you're taking a damaged rivet and kind of reflattening it out and whatever. My intuition, which is nearly always wrong, tells me that smashing a damaged rivet back into place is weaker than a new rivet... but is this true?

If rebucking is a legitimately permanent (or, at least, as permanent as a new rivet) fix, I'm happy to do it, but I don't want to do what's "free" at the expense of what's "best" And then, of course, either way, I'll gluvit over it!

I am still working on the bow. I have some leaking going on up there, and some under the seats, which are riveted down, so at some point I'm going to have to rely on either new rivets or gluvit to fix THOSE leaks because I can't get to them to rebuck! can't wait to get this thing back in the water.

Thanks again!

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

Book learning not OTJ speaking here so maybe I'll get set straight yet again,

Loose rivet that rebucking will help is not physically loose as in you can wiggle it like a kid with a tooth but just loose enough to not be watertight any more. A leak test will show seeping.

Damaged rivet that needs replaced - One that is physically missing a head/tail or physically moving. A visual inspection should find these

If a rivet has a cracked shaft rebucking should make it reveal itself by loosing a head/tail or becoming wiggly loose in the process.

Any of the above as GA said should be weeded out with the leak test - rebuck - leak test process. Plus not so much as it's free as the process may save you time since there may be many leakers and it's quicker to rebuck than to drill and replace.

OK waiting for the mob to set fire to me.

 

[jbcurt00]

TDF has it right ^^^, nicely done

Re-buck 'weeping' rivets, not so much a damaged rivet, its just no longer water tight.