Outdrive repaint and anti foul paint

[further]

Hey guys, so current project is to repaint my outdrive. It's a 1996 Volvo SX-C1. Purchased the boat with some form of brushed on anti foul paint on the outdrive. Should I remove the anti foul completely and how is this best done or should I just sand it smooth the best I can and repaint. I've read up on several outdrive refinishing threads and will be properly treating all bare aluminum areas then repainting with rattle cans. Also read that its best to take off as little paint as possible and paint on top of factory but with the anti-foul, not sure that's the best idea. I know a better finish can be obtained with guns but i'm not looking to make it showroom, just decent from a distance Boat is freshwater only, trailered and never in the water longer than a day.
Some pics.... outdrive is in the shop having propshaft seal replaced...
Working on the transom assembly now





These plastic covers can't really be sanded so is there anything I can use to remove it?

 

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Anyone? Let me rephrase the question.... Are there any chemicals that I can use to remove the anti-foul without removing the underlying paint? If not is this ok to sand down and paint over if not all of it is removed?

 

[harleyman1975]

I had an old mercruiser unit on an old Cruisers inc 23ft. I took and stripped all the paint off the parts with sander, dremmel tool ect...whatever works. primed with epoxy primer and painted with acrylic enamel w/hardener. left in water all summer for 3 years and paint was in very good condition when I sold it last summer.

 

[further]

I had an old mercruiser unit on an old Cruisers inc 23ft. I took and stripped all the paint off the parts with sander, dremmel tool ect...whatever works. primed with epoxy primer and painted with acrylic enamel w/hardener. left in water all summer for 3 years and paint was in very good condition when I sold it last summer.

Good to know. Thanks for the info. When you sanded did you take all of the paint off completely to bare aluminum?

 

[harleyman1975]

Yes. I am the guy that strips everything to bare metal and applies epoxy primer right away...Can't help myself

 

[Woodonglass]

You don't need antifouling paint for freshwater boats that don't stay in the water long term. Wash her down and sand her smooth. Prime any bare spots with Self Etching primer. Primed with Rustoleum Bare Metal primer and then I used Rustoleum Pro with the added Acrylic Enamel Hardener. Been 3 years and the paint is still high gloss. Edges of the prop needs touching up every now and then but easy enuf with a PreVal Sprayer.

 

[further]

You don't need antifouling paint for freshwater boats that don't stay in the water long term. Wash her down and sand her smooth. Prime any bare spots with Self Etching primer. Primed with Rustoleum Bare Metal primer and then I used Rustoleum Pro with the added Acrylic Enamel Hardener. Been 3 years and the paint is still high gloss. Edges of the prop needs touching up every now and then but easy enuf with a PreVal Sprayer.

Thanks WOG. Yes, I don't want the anti foul paint. Wanted to confirm that it's ok to paint over remaining anti foul after sanding smooth.
Thanks again

 

[harleyman1975]

Anti fouling paint is made to delaminate so you must strip it off.

 

[Woodonglass]

YUP!!! ^^^ It's gotta come off!!!

 

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Any chemicals that can take it off or should i just sand?

 

[Woodonglass]

Aircraft Stripper MAYBE????

 

[harleyman1975]

It will wreck the glass if it touches it. I would not use stripper if it were mine. I would sand it off. It will strip bondo from metal which is polyester based.

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhmmm HM1975 The Aircraft Stripper will not damage fully cured polyester resin unless it's badly cracked or damaged and the solvent gets into the inner layers. It WILL for sure turn any Bondo type fillers into MUSH almost instantly!!!! That's because it uses Talc as its filler and is also why it's never recommended for marine use. As long as you don't leave the stripper on for an extended period of time and it doesn't get into cracks...you'll be fine. I do agree however, that sanding would be preferred cuz, chemicals is just nasty stuff no matter what!!!!

 

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Ok, thanks guys. I will try sanding then.

 

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Yes. I am the guy that strips everything to bare metal and applies epoxy primer right away...Can't help myself

Harley, what did you use to sand? DA sander, palm, mouse, plain ol hand? Grit?

 

[harleyman1975]

80 grit on a D/A, an angle grinder with 3" 3M "scotch brite pads" and by hand.

 

[further]

Wanted to post an update on my outdrive progress. Finally got it back from having the prop shaft seals replaced. Been sanding away and think i'm pretty much through and ready for the metal prep and alodine. Is there an issue with leaving exposed aluminum for a few days? Will it oxidize and require additional sanding? I won't be able to get to finish the prep and priming until the weekend...

Got all of the anti foul paint off and in doing so removed most of the factory paint and primer...







Thx

 

[Woodonglass]

A quick wipe down with acetone and you'll be good to go!!

 

[further]

A quick wipe down with acetone and you'll be good to go!!

Easy enough... Thanks!

 

[harleyman1975]

Agreed. Nice work! I'm sure it was a bugger but it will be worth it in the end now epoxy prime and paint it!