Open skiff restoration questions

speo

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 2, 2015
Messages
42
Last year I purchased a project boat that I am planning to start restoration next month.

The project is not as challenging as other members are doing, but being my first aluminum boat and the lack of documentation about this particular boat, makes it difficult for me.

Based on the Serial Number, the boat is: 1981 Springbok, 18 foot, 81" beam. Some people called it Alcan Jumbo, but I am not sure if this is the same model.

Since I purchased the boat without any plate for specifications, my first question will be:
  1. if any of you have any knowledge about the specs, please let me know. If you see one for sale, please let me know so I can get in touch with the owner and ask for specs.
What I want for this boat is to restore it to the initial shape and functionality and see if this type of boat is a good fit for my family needs in terms of size, stability and functionality. What we want is a boat that me, wife and 2 kids can putter around and also go fishing.

For now, this is what I think I need to do:

a. rebuild the transom (since the previous owner cut it for 15?, I built it for 15? for testing purpose with a small outboard and if it is a good fit for me, I will build a 20? transom and buy a bigger outboard.

b. fill up the flotation compartments (benches) with foam

c. cover the benches with plywood

d. build the diagonal stringers from gunnels to the benches (2 per bench)

e. build a small bow cap

f. build the bow ?platform? ? the triangular one that is flush with the gunnels (I don?t know the actual term for it)

g. install the bilge drain

h. install a bilge pump

Now, a bunch of questions:

2. Outboard: 40 HP 4 tiller. Too small?

3. Flotation: To allow water to flow towards the bilge pump and to avoid the foam soaking water, I am thinking to add a layer of 0.5Liter PET bottles on the bottom, then Styrofoam blocks on top. Based on my calculations, the bottles are 4lb/ft3 and the foam is 2lb/ft3, so there is a difference, but if it is only the bottom layer, it is not that bad. Good idea or bad idea?

4. Plywood for benches: I will use Baltic Birch, covered in 3 layers of East Systems epoxy. The question is what thickness for the plywood? It takes an effort to snuggly fit ? and I am wondering if I should go one size thinner, 5/8?

5. Diagonal Stringers: I saw on other boats these stringers are not just flat metal, but they have some shape along that makes them a lot harder to bend. Any idea how to achieve that, or will it be OK to use flat strips?

6. The bow ?platform?: In the fourth picture below, there is a boat exactly like mine (I think they are actually the same model). The bow platform seems to be arched, but I am planning to add a trolling motor at the bow, so if I can get away with just a big piece of plywood on top of the gunnels and riveted to the gunnels, that would be the best for me. In my opinion, I am not losing any strength? How thick should be the plywood?

The bilge drain: It came with a schematic, but it is not clear for me if I install it with the already flanged side inside the boat or outside? Also, the rubber O-ring should be inside the boat or outside? Should I add some 3M 5200 when I install it? Some people mentioned they put adhesive, but since the one I have has an O-ring, do I still need adhesive?Anything else you think needs to be done?

Thanks a lot for taking the time to read my post. Any advice is highly appreciated.
 

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fishin98

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 28, 2009
Messages
521
. NICE! 18 foot boat, nice wide/deep layout, stout transom, a 40-60HP motor would be appropriate, I would not short change myself by going with a shallow transom, take advantage of the beam and height of the boat......Just My 2CTS.
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
Go with a 20" transom right from the start.

Fir plywood is better, but use the best product available in your region. Some birch is ok, some isn't, I'm not a wood guy, but always use fir.

3/4 is too thick, go thinner, probably 1/2 will be plenty. Weight is your enemy and plywood is heavy.

See what the hull is rated for with a tiller, then get close to the max.

Don't get hung up on a brand of epoxy, just about any will work well when used to just coat the wood. And don't buy any of the thinned "penetrating epoxies", just get the normal stuff, it's much better.
 
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speo

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 2, 2015
Messages
42
Than you for your answers guys.

I do not want a 15" transom. The reason for building initially with a 15" transom was that I have only one outboard and it is 15". With a 15" transom I can take the boat out for a stroll with my small outboard and see if we like the boat without spending thousands of dollars for a 20" outboard.

If the verdict is YES, I will definitely rebuild the transom and look for a good outboard.

OK, I will look around for 1/2 inch fir ply.

One more question: how big should be the bilge pump? Rule 1100, 1500, 2000?

Thank you guys, I really appreciate your feedback
 
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ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
The right size bilge pump is the one you feel comfortable with, none are going to keep you from sinking if you take a big wave over the side in rough water, but if you spring a leak a bigger pump will keep up a little better. You don't need the biggest, or the smallest.
 

speo

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 2, 2015
Messages
42
No Title

After reading lot of posts on this forum, I feel like a kid in the candy store :) I want to do so many things now :)

Will this Old Timers Wood Sealer Formula mixture work for my bench plywood?
 

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ondarvr

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It will help, it's not going to seal the wood like epoxy, and will need to be reapplied periodically, but will extend the life by quite a bit.
 
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speo

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 2, 2015
Messages
42
It will help, it's not going to seal the wood like epoxy, and will need to reapplied periodically, but will extend the life by quite a bit.


Thank you Sir, in this case I will use epoxy.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Epoxy is not UV resistant. If you coat your benches with epoxy you will have to paint them or use a UV resistant varnish or the epoxy will not last either. If your boat is not left out in the weather the Old timers recipe will last a good long time. If you use exterior grade Poly it IS UV resistant and cures to a very hard and waterproof finish. As long as you don't get deep scratches and gouges in your seats I think it's a good choice, Lots' cheaper, easier to find, and easy to touch up and repair. Epoxy IS a very hard durable product but you PAY for all it's qualities. I've used the OTR for years and it's held up extremely well in all cases. I only reapply for touch ups not as a total "Do-Over" do to failure. If you use the boat everyday and are really walking & beating on the benches in a bad way then you'll prolly wear the poly down after a couple of seasons. It's kinda like wood floors in a house People track in mud, water and grime and they hold up pretty well but will need to be re-done periodically.
 

speo

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 2, 2015
Messages
42
I was able to locate today a source of Okume Marine Plywood and the price is decent. 1/2" x 4' x 8' is $83. The only concern is now the sales person told me the 1/2" thickness is 5 ply, while on my research the Okume ply I found on the internet is 7 ply for 1/2". Could this be a mistake of the sales person, or a lower quality Okume Marine Plywood?
 
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speo

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Jun 2, 2015
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42
Can the Old Timers Wood Sealer Formula mixture be stored for a while, or will it solidify, or evaporate, or loose it's qualities? For how long will the mixture be good for usage?
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
As long as it's in a good container with a tight lid...It'll keep for a year or two!!!
 

speo

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 2, 2015
Messages
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No Title

Finally, spring is here, so I started to work on the boat.
I bought a sheet of 5/8 Okume Marine plywood BS 1088, Minwax Polyurethane, Mineral Spirits, boiled linseed oil and Seaway vinyl flooring.

Today I was able to cut four benches, sand the edges, test them in position, then apply a coat of OTR. I even temporarily cover one bench with vinyl just to see how it looks like.
 

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speo

Seaman Apprentice
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Jun 2, 2015
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No Title

Some progress this weekend: I installed the bilge drain kit, all foam was cut and installed and all benches are in place. I estimate so far I installed a little bit over 20 cubic ft of foam. I will leave the rear left bench empty for storage (the plywood is hinged as a lid to the side of the boat).

Next steps are to bolt the benches to the frame, then build the little bow platform for the trolling motor and then the braces from the gunnels to the benches. After that I can take it for a ride :)
 

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speo

Seaman Apprentice
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Jun 2, 2015
Messages
42
I found a motor for my boat, but I am afraid it is too heavy. I found a 1999 Yamaha 50HP T50TLRX that is 234lb dry weight.

The specs of my boat are: Centre Line: 18'1", Beam: 6'9", Maximum Depth: 39", Transom Height: 20", Weight: 450lb, Max HP capacity: 55HP, Max Load capacity: 2050 lb

Is this T50TLRX at 234lb too heavy?

http://www.nadaguides.com/Boats/1999...utboard-Motors
 
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DeepBlue2010

Lieutenant
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Aug 19, 2010
Messages
1,304
I don't think it is based on your boat specs. Most 50HP outboards weight 105-160 Ib and your boat is rated for 55HP.

Edit : the weight range for 50HP outboards should read 205-260 Ib not 105-160
 
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speo

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Jun 2, 2015
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I don't think it is based on your boat specs. Most 50HP outboards weight 105-160 Ib and your boat is rated for 55HP.

When you say 160 Ib , are you talking about 2 stroke, 1980 outboards?

My thought was to average the weight of few 1980, 55HP outboard weights and choose a newer outboard of the same weight, but researching the web yielded some contradictory information, so I really don't know the approximate weight for a suitable outboard for my boat.
 

DeepBlue2010

Lieutenant
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Aug 19, 2010
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1,304
I am sorry, I meant to say 205-260 Ib. It is still too early where I am :)

I will edit my post
 
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