Project 21 Ft Century

[sphelps]

How far is it from the edge of the old deck cut to the inside of the hull ? I'm thinking if you make the cleats wide enough you can tab the bottom of the cleat to the side of the hull for extra strength along the perimeter ... Just a thought ...

 

[Glang65]

How far is it from the edge of the old deck cut to the inside of the hull ? I'm thinking if you make the cleats wide enough you can tab the bottom of the cleat to the side of the hull for extra strength along the perimeter ... Just a thought ...

Its 3 to 5 inches , it varies. That may work, though. I will look into it further when this is all tabbed in. Thanks

 

[Glang65]

While waiting on some materials, I started do in a little on the console. I cut out all the old wood and started grinding the inside out to replace the structural wood. When I go back with the waterproofed wood and tab it in. How do I seal the exposed edges left after cutting out the holes, windows etc for the gauges and rod holders. This question also applies to the holes that will be cut in the deck for my drop in compartment doors. Do you glass the edges with csm after cutting the holes? Any thoughts or guidance would be appreciated .

 

[sphelps]

You can seal the edges with csm ... Pre cut your pieces to go in there then hold or tape them in place ... Draw your holes through the outside . Remove the piece then cut your holes a little bigger than your mark .... That way they should be the same finish size after the csm .. You could also just use some hairy p/b to seal them up ... Replace the wood with the holes just about a 1/4 " bigger and fill the edges up to your openings ...

 

[Glang65]

I see Sphelps, that makes sense. Both methods actually. On the CSM method if your ply is 1/2 inch thick, do you apply a half inch strip along the edge like banding plywood or does it roll over

 

[sphelps]

If I was gunna use csm I would tear /shred the csm and let that wrap around the edges ... Just pinch the csm between your finger tips and pull it apart ... Ends up looking fluffy like a bunny tail or something ....Cut about a half inch off your chips brush and dab, dab, dab until it wets out ...

 

[Glang65]

If I was gunna use csm I would tear /shred the csm and let that wrap around the edges ... Just pinch the csm between your finger tips and pull it apart ... Ends up looking fluffy like a bunny tail or something ....Cut about a half inch off your chips brush and dab, dab, dab until it wets out ...

LOL, I have seen the bunny tail on accident getting the stuck chopped strand off my rubber gloves, thats pretty funny. My materials came in today so between the console, tabbing, bulkheads and gas tank floor I should be busy for a while. I will keep yall posted with pics and the like. Thanks for the help.

 

[Glang65]

Well i finally have the stringers tabbed back in. I am happy with the way they came out. I will be starting bulkheads and gas tank floor next. Any suggestions on the plywood I should use for the bulkheads, gas tank floor and eventually the new deck?

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhmmm I'm not seeing any pics!!!

3/4" AC Ext. Grade Plywood would be my recommendation for plywood. Precoat with resin paying close attention to the edges and filling any and all voids with thickened resin prior to laying any glass.

 

[Glang65]

Did the pictures ever make it, I see them? Thanks wog on the plywood recommendation, Would Lowes or HD carry that in stock?

 

[Glang65]

Happy Memorial Day everyone. Hope yall have a great holiday!!!!

 

[Woodonglass]

No pics yet. The icons are there but no pics. How are you trying to load them? Yes, Lowe's or Home Depot both carry AC Ext. Grade Plywood IF you can find the Araucao Brand it's very good stuff.

 

[Glang65]

Have any of y'all used composite deck boards in boat repair. I thought about raising the stringer height with these

 

[Woodonglass]

They have no structural strength and resin won't stick to them

 

[Glang65]

They have no structural strength and resin won't stick to them

Thats what I figured WOG.

 

[Glang65]

Well, I am so excited,finally the new construction begins and that feels really good. I found some PLY at home depot for 32 a sheet and it seems to be some nice stuff. almost 0 voids. I am pretty happy with it. started the plywood floor for the gas tank and the bulkheads. Should the gas tank sit on ribs glassed to the hull and be tabbed in to the stringers or like in one picture can it be just tabbed in with out being lifted of the keel. In the picture, the blocks are cut for illustration, So 1 pic shows the blocks lifting the floor up and the other shows it sitting on the keel. Any thoughts on this piece of construction would be appreciated.

 

[Woodonglass]

I think you'll learn a lot here...http://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm

 

[Glang65]

I think you'll learn a lot here...http://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm

Hey WOG, that was a good article and I did learn alot, Thanks. There is some confusion though on my part. The article said the tank or coffin bottom should not rest on the floor. To me that says it cant be just tabbed to the stringers sitting on the keel. There is also a diagram that shows a cross section with blocks similar to mine just not sitting on the floor. I am assuming from everything my coffin floor tabbed to the stringers and bulkheads suspended with my blocks tabbed to the hull floor would be adequate. Seems like that shares the weight between the tabbing, and the structure of the hull.

 

[Woodonglass]

Yup, but take note of top picture in this drawing...

you don't want to sit the tank directly on top of the plywood.

 

[Glang65]

I understand that, I have fount the plastic strips at Mc Master Carr. I am more worried about the supports under the coffin floor resting on the bottom of the hull, is this ok, acceptable, the preferred method? Whats the best way to suspend the coffin floor for tabbing if I dond use supports like in my picture/