1987 Starcraft Islander Rebuild w/ 3.0 L Mercruiser

GA_Boater

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What's the shipping cost of the us composites epoxy? I can pick up Helmsman at my local HD.

A gallon of Spar covers 500 sq. ft., twice the epoxy coverage. Spar is UV resistant, epoxy isn't and needs a top coat.

Both have advantages, but I prefer Helmsman. My coupla pennies.
 

JDH-GL

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Feb 11, 2016
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Well, I'm off to buy oil based. I did epoxy on my last boat. I figured I try the other method this time - and I'll do my best to make sure the new transom doesn't get wet. I'll get some pictures of the roof differences once I get the hardtop moved over. I might make a few other modifications but I want all the parts in one place before I start cutting. I'm planning to sell the other boat as soon as I get the hardtop off. It doesn't have a trailer, but I'm guessing I'll get someone to come pick it up.

I started pulling the Yamaha's off the Whaler today - got both lower units removed. The bolts looked like new and came out really easy. I do want to repaint. I looks like someone sprayed over the old paint and its not held up well.

2JVUrJP.jpg


Cc7Tll1.jpg
 

jasoutside

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 20, 2009
Messages
13,269
My informal, unscientific, shadetree, backyard testing of spar v. epoxy is that it takes 2 or 3 coats of spar to make the equivalent of 1 coat of epoxy. So, your results may vary.

What that tells me is that even if cost were not part of the equation I'm still doing 2 to 3 times the work to achieve the same results. No biggie at all on a small boat project, but, on an Islander (or in this case TWO Islanders) that kind of time spent really adds up.

All the same, a few coats of spar plus some paint and your wood work is better than factory and will last as long as you would hope for:thumb:
 

GA_Boater

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All the same, a few coats of spar plus some paint and your wood work is better than factory and will last as long as you would hope for
thumb.gif

Spit offers more protection than what the factory did. :eek:

Whether we use epoxy or floor paint or spar, it's 1000 times better than from the factory.
 

JDH-GL

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Feb 11, 2016
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Ok... The stuff mixes now!

HtWtZlB.jpg


I've got the first coat of sealer down on both transom boards. I'll glue the non-sealed sides together this week, and then I'll cut to shape. Once I'm happy with the shape I'll seal the edges.
 

JDH-GL

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Feb 11, 2016
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A quick update.
1. The transom wood is rough cut to shape. I'll need to plane it or belt sand it to fit, and then I'll drill holes, and then seal those and the edges. I'm still not sure the approach I want to take to fill in the outdrive hole. I'm worried about welding in a patch just to fit the hole. I'm thinking I'll make an aluminum sheet on the back of the outboard bracket that I can seal with 3M 5200 and bolt on with the bracket. I'm planning on making knee braces to tie into the motor mounts and stringers.

j7qV60k.jpg


2. It's been cold again in Michigan and since the boats outside I haven't felt like working on it - mainly because its uncovered. So I'm rigging up a PVC pipe canopy of sorts I'm going to cover with clear plastic. At least this will keep out the snow so I don't have to clean up the inside every time I want to work.

It's bigger than it needs to be in these pictures. I want it to fit inside the boat while I'm working.
wKF6hqv.jpg


Yes, it still needs a few pieces to make it stable, but I wanted to put a simple frame together as proof of concept. I think its going to work fine.
49P8eGZ.jpg


3. I'm working on getting the Yamaha's off of the Whaler - but again its been cold and I haven't felt to motivated.

jieG67b.jpg


Another picture of the Whaler - just for fun
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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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So that rotten glass tub in inside and the Islander is outside? Looks like you have some seriously huge indoor work space with a fork lift too boot.... :eek:
 

JDH-GL

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Feb 11, 2016
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It's my work's garage. I have both boats outside, but I can pull them into the shop to work on them on the weekends. Although sometimes we park trucks inside depending on what jobs are going on. The forklift has been very helpful.
 

Watermann

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The transom, what dimensions did you use? It doesn't look very large to go into an Islander.
 

JDH-GL

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Feb 11, 2016
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I wanted to keep it a little off the bottom to prevent it from sitting in the bilge water so it's not full depth to the bottom of the hull.. I hope I didn't make it too short! :noidea:.

I'm currently thinking about ways to support an outboard bracket. I'll try and draw up some ideas this week to see what you guys think.

I've assembled my "canopy" in the boat without the plastic for now. I might have to shorten it a little, but I really like the tons of headroom I'll have to work. I'll buy some more pipes to support it tomorrow and I'll get the plastic out on it - but first I want the rain in the forecast to melt out the snow that's still inside.

NHYLiuq.jpg
 

Pusher

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I tried a pvc pipe frame last summer but the 100+? temps warped it. Don't feel like you have too many reinforcements. You might even see if there's any cheap wood dowels you can slip inside before gluing the joints together.
 

Watermann

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I used 1.5" dia schedule 80 conduit so it wouldn't break or bend as easy.
 

jbcurt00

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Old billboard vinyl also makes a great boat tarp

https://billboardtarps.com/

Just make sure to get 1 that DOESNT say No pipe sleeve . You want/need the pipe sleeves for use as hold downs.

I know guys in the northern US that have had them in continous use and ezposed to fhe elements for more then 10yrs,

Might get lucky and find something in the clearance room.
 

JDH-GL

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Feb 11, 2016
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I'm sorry this project has been taking too long! I've been working too much, and fishing too much. I have the hardtop moved over to the new hull. I'll hopefully get into putting some time into this project next week.

9AATfMc.jpg


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Watermann

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The top looks good, will be looking forward to seeing your progress.
 

JDH-GL

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Feb 11, 2016
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Not much to report. I've changed my mind about mounting an outboard engine bracket off the back. I'm planning to cut the transom down to mount the 200 Yamaha directly. I have a transom height question: the motor is 25 inches from the cavitation plate to the top of the mounting bracket - so does this mean a transom height of about 24.5 inches would be ok? There is currently a 0.5 inches gap where the motor is mounted on the Boston Whaler.
 

Watermann

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Cutting down an IO transom is not that easy just to add an outboard, as you've noticed, OB set ups have a splashwell but boats with a OB on a pod don't since the the transom is not cut down. My opinion on the questions, 24.5 transom height would be in the correct range for an OB with a 25" shaft to be mounted.
 

JDH-GL

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Feb 11, 2016
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Hi folks. It's been a while, but i'm making progress again. The transom is mounted. The 200hp Yamaha is mounted to the transom. Several floor boards have been cut. I ended up cutting the transom down to about 24 7/8". Hopefully it's mounted at the right height. I will need to make a splash well too.

I have not installed transom knees, and I will have to make some. there is too much flex just under the motor weight, so I have it temporarily supported. I'm not sure yet if I'm going to go this aluminum or make them out of wood.

The picture below shows how I dealt with the covering up the transom cut-out for the old I/O setup. I will say it was fun driving solid rivets. The rivets and the new aluminum plate are sealed with 5200 so i don't think they are ever letting go.

iRe3YDK.jpg
 

BWR1953

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Jan 23, 2009
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Welcome back! That aluminum plate is looking very stout! :eagerness:

As for knee braces... aluminum won't rot. ;)
 
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