Newby needs help with new floor decking

[iraqvet13f]

Hello To all!
Newby here. Got a few question for everyone who reads this post.

Before I start, I?m sure these questions have been mulled over and shot to heck many times, BUT I was not sure where to post. So please bear with me here.
I am mechanically and constructional inclined. But have never attempted a Marine deck replacement, and my questions pertain to sealing and coating the floor decking. So here we go:

My boat is a 1988 Sea Nymph FM 165, Aluminum boat. Original deck is really flexing and soft, and I am a pretty big guy, (250 lbs) and I fish with 2 other people (Wife and father in law). I will be adding new seats and pedestals, some new wiring, and updated rod holders. This is mainly a CATFISH boat, So I NO CARPET back in this boat.. too hard to keep clean.

Original decking is ? inch with carpet.

2 Options: Option A) is quite a bit out of my budget, financially,. Option B is what I am leaning towards

A. ? inch Marine Plywood ($86 per sheet) (3 sheets needed) , seal bottom and sides with Tung Oil and sealer. Cover top side with a paint primer (2 coats) sand, clean and coat with 2 coats Kiwigrip.

And I have to drive almost 125 miles round trip to get the marine plywood, or pay a little more for the BOX Store to get some for me, and you know how that can go? get some warped or damaged junk.

OR

B. 5/8 inch ACX exterior plywood (abt $40 per sheet) (need 3 sheets), seal bottom and sides with Tung Oil and sealer. Cover topside with a paint primer (2 coats) and cover with 2 coats of Kiwigrip.

Fasteners: Stainless Screws or Rivet it down?

So, there it is? looking forward to the OPINIONS of all the folks here?

READY?.. GO

Thanks for the input!!!

 

[gm280]

iraqvet13f, either choice is workable. If money is the issue, go with the ACX plywood and go for it. After all, you stated it is merely a catfish setup and not a pleasure boat setup. So any type exterior ply will work. As for sealing it, there are lots of ways to do that. Again, whatever works for you will work. Some folks use paints with sand added to offer a more skid resistant surface on their floor. So whatever works, go for it.

And post some pictures of you boat. We love pictures on these forums. :thumb:

 

[Scott Danforth]

I would go with option B, held in place with 3M 5200 vs screws (stainless and aluminum really do not play nice together). then rhino line the top side of the wood to seal and protect it while providing grip, leaving the bottom simply sealed with Woodonglass 's old timers formula of linseed oil, terpentine, and mineral spirits.

also, if your adding seats, etc, make sure to weigh them. the extra weight comes off the capacity of the boat. (if you add 300# of seats, you cant bring along 300# of people or gear)

 

[jrttoday]

howz that prehistoric oil filter commercial go? "pay me now, or pay me later..." Today, I can "shoulda woulda" all over myself, but that doesn't change the past. I can only "wish :lol:" I had..... wish I had at least painted the bottom
Just saying, I have 1/2" Marine plywood glassed and tabbed painted with Killz and sand - colorant added to cut down glare. Works great, solid floor six years now; BUT! some water has gotten in somehow, discovered while replacing the transom. Pictures are best because even with a right click google search, we still can't be certain of .......

with stringers and floatation foam, 10 people wouldn't buckle my floor - that you'd notice

 

[Woodonglass]

1st off Welcome to iBoats!!!

Once you get deck off I'm betting you'll find your boat is filled with flotation foam. You'll need to check and see if this foam is wet and waterlogged. Best way to do this is to make a foam drill from a length of 2" PVC about 2ft long. cut some teeth in one end and a hole in the other for a long handle screw driver then push/drill this down into the foam until you bottom out on the bottom of the hull. then pull it out and peer down into the hole and check for water. Do this in several places front to back. Water logged foam will add several hundred lbs of weight to your boat. There's no way to dry it out. It has to be removed and replace. You can use the 2 part pour in or the slab foam and cut it to fit. If you're lucky and the foam is dry and all that's required is to replace the wood, then I agree with the others in that all you need is a qood quality ext. grade plywood and then I always recommend treating it with this this...

On the final coat of Poly you can sprinkle sand to provide a non skid surface. Then use Oil Based Rustoleum to Paint over it all. If you do this and then give your deck proper care and maintenance, it will last for decades.