What paint and primer for aluminum 68 Crestliner

[DeepCMark58A]

I'm not a "Tinner" but from what I gather Most of them would consider that " a Battle Scar" and not worry about it. If it bugs ya then do the metal work necessary to repair it and move on.

Plus you don't get as upset when the next wound happens.

 

[utfyrfytr]

With having the boat media blasted and the resulting rough surface do I still need to do a self etching primer or can I just go with a bare metal primer? I think I'll take "gm280's" advice and try pushing on it to see if it might pop out. If it does good enough and if it doesn't then, "battle scars" are good. Thanks for everyone's advice, can't wait for good weather.

 

[Woodonglass]

ALL Bare Aluminum ALWAYS needs to be primed with a very light coat of SE primer followed with several heavy coats of Bare Metal Primer.

 

[gm280]

WOG does have a great point there.

 

[utfyrfytr]

Can I just use rattle cans for the self etching primer and then a spray gun for the bare metal primer?

 

[gm280]

Can I just use rattle cans for the self etching primer and then a spray gun for the bare metal primer?

You certainly can use can primer if that is how you want to go. Whatever way YOU choose will work. Just remember one thing, your final finish is totally dependent on the prep work and priming. So if you have scratches, nicks and any other issues, primer and paint will never cover over them and they will certainly show up in the final finish. So take your time and do the work in the prep and the finish will be great.

If you care to see how I painted my outboard, click on the link below and take a look. :thumb:

 

[jbcurt00]

SE or ZC primer for aluminum doesnt need much coverage to be sufficient for good adhesion of the clean metal primer. Rattle cans will be fine

 

[Woodonglass]

They do make a "Filler" primer that will hide light scratches and imperfections and is very sandable.

 

[utfyrfytr]

Thanks guys. The weather is still a couple of months away from cooperating so I still have time to decide my course of action. In looking at paints Rustoleum says it it oil based but does not mention being an epoxy enamel is it the same thing? I really appreciate everyone's input because as you can tell I have no experience with this at all. Just before Christmas Amazon had the Wise back to back deluxe reclining lounge seats on sale for around $145 a set depending on color. As I was going through the different color combinations I found the grey and red seats for $68 a set. I have no idea why they were so much cheaper but I jumped on them and picked up 2 sets. I guess that is going to determine to some extent my color options. I still think I can keep it pretty close to original combinations. Thanks again guys.

 

[Woodonglass]

No, Rustoleum is an Oil Based Arcylic Enamel Paint. As I've previously stated you add the hardener which effectively makes it a two part paint similar to automotive urethane paints.

 

[utfyrfytr]

OK thanks, I didn't realize that it is the hardener that makes it an epoxy paint. Be patient with me, I'm old but I'm hoping I can still learn a few new tricks.

 

[jbcurt00]

OK thanks, I didn't realize that it is the hardener that makes it an epoxy paint. Be patient with me, I'm old but I'm hoping I can still learn a few new tricks.

Not epoxy paint, but hard as nails and fuel proof? Yep.

 

[gm280]

utfyrfytr, the hardener actually makes it a crystalized paint, not an epoxy paint. Most automotive paints are catalyzed paints that use hardeners. And since they are usually polyurethane paints, it makes for not only a very durable finish that resists scratches and marks, but also a finish that is impervious to oils, fuels, and so many other chemicals. So use the hardener and just make sure you clean the spray gun or whatever you use after finished. Otherwise, it will be useless to ever use again. And don't put any left over mixed paint back into the original paint can with un-catalyzed paints. It all will then be useless if you do that.

One other very important things to do as well. And that is use a 3M respirator (6700 series or eq.) or any other quality brand respirator when spraying such catalyzed paints. That stuff is dangerous to breath into your lungs. JMHO!

 

[Woodonglass]

Epoxy paint IS epoxy paint. Nothing makes any other paint an epoxy paint. It either is or it isn't. GM280 has explained the Rustoleum/Hardener Catalyzation process better than I did.:nod:

 

[utfyrfytr]

OK, The light is starting to get brighter. I think I am beginning to better understand what you are trying to tell me. Much thanks!!

 

[utfyrfytr]

Ok, time to get back to the old boat. A couple of more questions since our last discussion, I have been reading on some of the aluminum restorations that the bare metal should always be wiped down with a 50/50 solution of vinegar and water and then not touched again with your hands until it has been primed. Does the self etching primer eliminate that step or is it still a should do? Second thing is blind rivets are they just the old standard pop rivet or are they something different? Thanks for the help.

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

No help on the paint but regular blind rivets (pop rivets) are open and will let water right through so make sure you use Closed End Blind Rivets

 

[utfyrfytr]

Thanks Truck Driver. I figured it couldn't be as easy as some plain old pop rivet,but leaks are never a good thing.

 

[Woodonglass]

Any bare aluminum should be primered first with Self Etching Primer and then with Bare Metal Primer. The primer coats should be lightly sanded prior to applying the color coats.

 

[utfyrfytr]

WOG, so no need to wipe down with vinegar and water prior to the self etching primer?