1958 Alumacraft Restoration

paladinlord06

Recruit
Joined
Aug 7, 2014
Messages
3
So, I've been on the iBoating forum here for some time, reading about all the faithful restorations made by many a classic Alumacraft owner. Well, this past month I can proudly say to have joined the rank of these owners. The 1958 Alumacraft FD named "Viking Trader" due to my family's Norwegian heritage that originally belonged to my great aunt, who passed it to my grandfather who in turn passed it to my mother, has now been passed to me.

She's a faithful vessel having been everywhere from pond hopping in Wisconsin, jumping surf in Pamlico sound, trolling in the rolling waves of Lake Erie for walleye, and weaving between the pylons of the Chesapeake Bay bridge for striped bass. Despite being woefully underpowered for almost the last 30 years (she's rated for 35hp and has a mere 6) she has gotten both dad's and my *** out of some sticky situations. Now, she sits in our garage here in Oklahoma after a 1300 mile move, ready for some very long overdue TLC to make her ready for some of the largest and hottest man-made lakes in the country.

I've decided to make a chronicle on iBoats of her thorough restoration to make her even better than the day she rolled off the alumacraft factory floor almost 58 years ago. Here is the plan: strip out all the old gear, bow cover, bridge "wings" and disassemble the transom so she is nothing more than a bare hull. Have all metal parts sand or soda blasted to bare metal to remove decades of aluminum oxide, ancient peeling paint and epoxy. After she's been stripped to bare metal, flip her over and solder closed every seam and rivet below the waterline. After 58 years of flawless service, some of the seams are leaky and instead of doing a temporary (and sloppy looking) epoxy seal, I'm going to close her up nice and tight with solder. Next, take her to a local Line-X shop to have a color-matched no-skid liner applied to the inside of the boat for additional waterproofing, protection and to replace the original 1950's no-skid liner that is flaking off in big chunks. Finally, rebuild the wood transom support with starboard, prime, paint and reassemble. Should be a decent all-winter project and should I find a good deal on a larger motor, hopefully repower for the spring.

Currently there appear to be issues with picture uploads on iBoating, but once it is back up I'll be sharing a few of the vessel as we go through this adventure together.
 
Last edited:

64osby

Admiral
Joined
Jul 28, 2009
Messages
6,799
Great to hear you are saving a piece of family history.

Everything I have seen on welding old aluminum hulls says don't do it.

Aluminum oxidizes, it has to be removed before welding or the weld gets contaminated.

The aluminum has been heat treated and high heat will make the aluminum brittle and subject to cracking next to the weld.

Most old aluminum hulls have a gasket like material between the joints. Welding will cause this to melt and will contaminate the weld.

Good rule of thumb is if the boat was welded at the factory then weld it. If it was riveted then use rivets.


Replacing rivets or re-bucking rivets is the best repair. Seams can be sealed with epoxy products like Gluvit or Coat-it.

Look forward to seeing your Tinny and your restoration.
 
Top