2 questions

viper1

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 13, 2002
Messages
283
I need to remove oxidation from my whole boat. A 89 Starcraft Islander hard top. Tries some 2000 grit wet dry and it seems to do pretty good. But was using a hand Block. When i hit some rivets the heads got a white spot. Think I removed the paint from the rivet. How do I get around this. Also what tool would be best for this. I have a buffer but seems pretty big for some areas.
Also I hope to pull the floor out soon. But only the back. It has three boards and the center by the dog house is soft. My question is, does the dog house and sides have to be removed to pull these? If not it seems like a pretty quick job. Any one know the answer? I assume some of you restorers have pulled them already.
 

DeepBlue2010

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Aug 19, 2010
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1,304
I have some doubts that you actually removed any paint from the rivet head. I think what happened is the other way around, you transferred white gelcoat (assuming that your boat color is white) from the sand paper to the rivet?s head but I can?t be sure, of course. Try to clean the head up with a small stainless steel wire brush and see what happens. If you really scratched of any protective paint layer on the rivet, you don?t have to replace it just for that, smear a thin layer of 3M 5200 on the head and inside the eye (if it is not blind) and call it good. Smearing a thin coat of 5200 on the rivets is something you would do anyways to protect against water leaks around the rivet

Regarding your second question, this needs some pictures to see what you are dealing with. Post some pictures of the area. In general, don?t get your hopes too high though. Boats tend to rot from the bottom up and from stern forward. If the deck is rotted, most likely transom, stringers and bulkheads are not in a good shape either. You need to get down there and take core samples before you develop a plan of attack.
 

jbcurt00

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Oct 25, 2011
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Not likely to have GELCOAT and RIVETS on an aluminum SC deep blue
 

DeepBlue2010

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Aug 19, 2010
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Sorry I missed that. Maybe I am not out of my food comma yet. The OP mentioned hitting some rivets though.
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
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Apr 6, 2005
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11,527
That's normal, and not easy to avoid, try just buffing and stay away from the rivets, do them by hand.
 

jbcurt00

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Chalky Paint oxidation on an aluminum SC Islander, right viper?

Hull is a flat surface, the rivets arent. No surprise you scuffed the top of the rivet heads, esp sanding using a block.

Wet sanding might help, but follow ondarvrs advice around the rivets
 

GA_Boater

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May 24, 2011
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On the deck R & R - Yes, the sides and doghouse need to be removed. They sit on top of the deck.
 

viper1

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 13, 2002
Messages
283
Yes its a painted metal hull. Just hit a small area today to see if 2000 grit was good. Seems to be. Have the 4 ft section were I can see my reflection. The rivets I hit see as the paint came off the very center of rivet. Not sure if any thing is really required. Wouldn't think paint stops rivet from leaking. I was thinking of using power to help. Maybe a buffer or sander of some type. Mostly for the large flat spots with out rivets.
Ok figured the box and sides would. That sucks as the floor only has a few screw holding it down. And would have been so easy. LOL! Oh I'm also pretty sure Star Craft has all aluminum stringers, And floors are solid every where else. Actually just the center board is soft at all at the dog house. But I want to check tank support and gas tank for rust. Some reason they tell me tank is supported by wood. If tank is bad my buddy has offered to weld me up a stainless one cheap. May do it any way.
Got screwed last year on this boat as it was suppose to be turn key. Lost the whole year fishing. So Im determined this will make the water this year.
Just had colon cancer surgery and removed most my colon and 7 cancerous lypnodes so I may not even be her till spring they say. Chemo starts in 2 weeks or so. This boat is keeping me going. LOL! So see you on Erie if your there. LOL!
 
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