14' bench seat boat restore

[xmxaxrxtxyx]

No I idea what kinda boat this is? My boss gave me this boat to work on for him.. He wants the 2 rear benches removed and a floor with pedestal seats. Other than that, I have free rein. Will need bracing of some kind where the benches were and a storage area in the front. It has to have minimum weight cause he loads and unloads by hand dolly. Any ideas of how to set this up would be helpful, Thanks

 

[xmxaxrxtxyx]

Well I have ripped it the 2 rear bench seats and brushed 1 coat Gluvit on all the seams and rivets inside the boat. When that is dry, I will spray on Flexseal.
Also the keelguard has a 3" split and a hole. Was wondering if Bondo would work for that or Waterweld & Gluvit?

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

Both rear benches gone bet that really flimsied the sides. Fab up some side boxes like this



Got a pic of the "split and a hole"?

 

[xmxaxrxtxyx]

Yeah I'm gonna have to do something like that, although I doubt I'll do the entire side?
Prob just under the braces

 

[xmxaxrxtxyx]

Wow I just spent an entire day making braces for the sides....3rd times the charm I guess!!
Here's what I've done so far:
Put 2 Gluvit sealed wood stringers down the center of the boat 21" apart just slightly lower then the sides for water runoff.
Filled the bottom with 1" sheet insulation foam
Set the MDO? plywood floor down with 3M 5200 adhesive and stainless steel screws into the ribs and stringers. Then covered it with vinyl carpet, glued and stapled.
Made 4 small boxes for braces where the bench seats were, and they work exceptionally well!
Just need to finish paint the inside and topside and install the rodholders.
Will post pics tomorrow

 

[Woodonglass]

Well, I certainly wish we could give you credit for all that work but...without pics????:noidea:

 

[gm280]

Obviously with no pictures it just never happened.

 

[fhhuber]

If the sides aren't adequately braced... the hull can fold up when it hits a wave/wake at speed. The middle bench going across is serving a second purpose of keeping the sides from getting further apart from each other.

Just running 2X2's from transom to the forward bench would be a help, but not as good TruckDrivingFool's solution.

Then I have to wonder.... Just what kind of insulation foam did you put in? The common pink or blue intended for home construction will become waterlogged.

You should also maintain a channel (I'd do 6 inches wide) down the center, under the floor, with no foam to allow for drainage.
And I'd allow access to clean the inevitable stuff that will collect in there out.

For the keel guard... I'd look into getting it repaired by welding or using "Durafix" which is an aluminum solder/brazing rod (not quite either... better than solder, not quite as good as brazing).

 

[Woodonglass]

Then I have to wonder.... Just what kind of insulation foam did you put in? The common pink or blue intended for home construction will become waterlogged.

Uhmm this is not correct. The Pink and Blue Slab foam from the Big Box stores is 100% impervious to water and will never absorb water. It's totally closed cell foam and cannot/will not ever become waterlogged. Just won't happen!!!!:nono: It is NOT resistant to fuel and or Polyester resin. Those things will "EAT" this stuff like candy!!! But... it will shed water like a freshly waxed Bald Head!!!:lol:

 

[jbcurt00]

If the sides aren't adequately braced... the hull can fold up when it hits a wave/wake at speed. The middle bench going across is serving a second purpose of keeping the sides from getting further apart from each other.

Just running 2X2's from transom to the forward bench would be a help, but not as good TruckDrivingFool's solution.

W out pix, I wouldnt yet be sure that what was done will or will not be sufficient to maintain the hull shape.

then I have to wonder.... Just what kind of insulation foam did you put in? The common pink or blue intended for home construction will become waterlogged.

You should also maintain a channel (I'd do 6 inches wide) down the center, under the floor, with no foam to allow for drainage.

And I'd allow access to clean the inevitable stuff that will collect in there out.

The XPS rigid foam insulation is closed cell, Extruded foam and won't absorb water.

For the keel guard... I'd look into getting it repaired by welding or using "Durafix" which is an aluminum solder/brazing rod (not quite either... better than solder, not quite as good as brazing).

Several others here have tried those rods. Its about 25% that are ok w results, 75% were dissatisfied w the results or found it too difficult to prep and apply correctly.

I dont have any experience w them nor any idea whether a 3in keel split would be a good place to try them or not. Again pix would be helpful to any making suggestions of repair methods.

 

[xmxaxrxtxyx]

No Title

Ok guys here are the pics:
PS keep in mind, I am not a professional with quality tools and mind

 

[xmxaxrxtxyx]

No Title

 

[xmxaxrxtxyx]

Also for the keel guard I closed it with water weld and painted over it. Looks great as long as it holds up

 

[jbcurt00]

Is that pressure treated lumber?

 

[xmxaxrxtxyx]

You mean the boxes or the stringers?
Stringers are CDX I think? I put Gluvit everywhere I figured mite have contact with water. Shouldn't be much of any contact except maybe in the rear?
The boxes are regular 2?4's and MDO

 

[xmxaxrxtxyx]

Hey does anyone know where to get an aluminum cover for the top of the transom?

 

[Woodonglass]

Most that I've seen here on the forum have fabricated their own from aluminum angle they purchase from Lowe's or Home Depot.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_55972-37672-11358___?productId=3058175&pl=1&Ntt=1+1/2"+aluminum

 

[xmxaxrxtxyx]

Thanks!!
I found an old clothes chute. Works great

 

[xmxaxrxtxyx]

Am finished with this boat and have given my boss the bill... needless to say he thinks it's quite expensive;( I worked 70+ hrs and charged $560 for labor..plus I didn't charge for all the hardware (screws, hinges, latches etc). Would like anyone's opinion on what they would've charged for this job??
Sadly I didn't get a pic of the finished boat before I delivered it

 

[fhhuber]

Should have given him an estimate before work started...

Hourly labor varies a lot. $8 an hr isn't high at all. The boat dealer would charge $60 to $120 an hr. (and probably taken about half the time)

The local boat fiberglass shop charges $27 an hr and quotes about $2300 to redo a 18 ft bass boat transom (without redoing stringers and deck... so you've still got a boat with issues) A job like what you did, they'd quote: "Buy a new boat, its cheaper."