1978 Silverline Nantucket 22VC rebuild

pegan81

Seaman Apprentice
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Nov 8, 2015
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30
Ok This is my first glass build I picked up this boat for cheep and now know why. the floor(sole) only had a couple of soft spots. upon further inspection (pulling some of it up) I found some real problems. this boat looks to have been rebuilt at least twice before so I have no original stringer or bracing to go by. I started to do the cabin this year and the deck area next year but I think I am too deep to stop now. I have a lot of concerns of creating "hard spots" in the hull.

My first major question is about the center sole support of this boat upon removal it was a solid wood stringer 3/4" X 4-6" running the from the bow to just before the bilge area. it was/is glassed in with only a very thin layer of glass on each side not even reaching the top of the support in some places. Is this support part of the hull structure or is it just to support the sole?

Next question would be if it only supports the sole how would you/I splice it for a front rebuild this year and rear next year?

I will get some picks uploaded tater to day
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,576
Hey Peg,
Welcome to dry dock. Lots of good guys and help here from everyone! Get some of dare pics up and that will let everyone be able to contribute to your questions.
 

pegan81

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 8, 2015
Messages
30
it has been raining like cats and dogs here Great for the drought but bad for pictures....
Would any one have a diagram for how this boat was built.
 

pegan81

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 8, 2015
Messages
30

this is my new baby
love the narrow lower bow with the top flaring out
most boat makers of this vintage went to a more straight up side to the bow to get more cabin space
 
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pegan81

Seaman Apprentice
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Nov 8, 2015
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This is what the helm looked like before I started the project
that is the motor cover behind the captain's chair
the entire boat was gutted when the last person re built it

I am going to use it for a fishing boat so when It goes back together it will be close to this and have the wide open deck
the Nantucket 22VC was a weekender with a stove sink fridge water tanks and sleeping berth.

I only need 4 seats and lots of deck space to drop fish onto
so this is not a restoration project it is more of a re tooling project.

My main concern is when I put the floor back in is that I get enough hull support. When the boat was new it had lots of cabinets and fixtures tying the hull floor sides and cap all together with just a flat floor I will lose all of that structural integrity.
But...... the person I bought it from said they did the over haul on it 10-15 years ago and she still seems strong now???
 
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pegan81

Seaman Apprentice
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Nov 8, 2015
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30

ok this is the floor of the cabin that is the new rib I put in (not glassed yet)
 

pegan81

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Nov 8, 2015
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30

this is looking back under the fuel tank see the old stringer and the space between the ends this should create a hard/soft spot in the hull (flex point)
I want to put a hatch above the gap and was wondering about solving the flex point........
 

pegan81

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Joined
Nov 8, 2015
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30




take note of this third picture their is no transom in this boat????? just a small piece of what looks like 3/4" ply glassed to the hull??????
Could have this boat come from the factory that way??
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
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Oct 16, 2012
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this is looking back under the fuel tank see the old stringer and the space between the ends this should create a hard/soft spot in the hull (flex point)
I want to put a hatch above the gap and was wondering about solving the flex point........


As long as you place your keel stringer on some pb or foam spacers or a combiantion of both you won'e have a hard spot. Trick is to directly place the stringer on the hull. Space is filled/filet with PB mix.
Check that pc of wood under the tank for integrity. There a re a number of ways to join back to it. You can run your new wood and butt up to the old stringer, then butt 2 pcs of wood @ 18" past the joint so a 36" board both sides. You can use pb and clap or mechanical/screws with pb. then glass it up.
 

pegan81

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 8, 2015
Messages
30
my plan is/was to do the front half this year and the back half of the boat next year
if I use the but joint with the side supports I could then cut back into it next year and work my way back then replace the side supports
a 6 or 7 to one bevel would have me pulling the front floor up again next year.
 

TruckDrivingFool

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 30, 2007
Messages
1,818
:welcome:to iboats Pegan!

It's fairly common for I/O's to not have a full length (side to side) transom.

You should be fine with the butt splice.

PB = Peanut Butter = Thicken resin mixture made up of resin, cabisol, and milled fibers.

Have a look/read here may clear up more than I can explain.
 

NavYak

Recruit
Joined
Nov 12, 2015
Messages
2
This is Boat is simular to my 1978 Hewes Marlin. Except mine is a 21 ft with an outboard.
 

pegan81

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 8, 2015
Messages
30
that is what I thought
thanks for clearing it up and for the link

I will keep posting as I get more done it might be a couple of weeks
it has been to cold after work and the boss has the weekends full right now.......
 

pegan81

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 8, 2015
Messages
30
it has been a good Ski season so the boat has been on the back burner and now i have to get busy salmon season is right around the corner.
ok I got the fuel tank out and have disconnected the motor so it can be pulled next weekend(it is raining here and I have to take to a truck shop I do not have a hoist high enough to pull it) if we get a break in the rain I will get some picks up.

in Laying out the rebuild my big question is...... to Foam or not to Foam?
What if any does the Foam do for performance?
1. Floatation under normal use (Not Sinking or crashed)
2. Hull Flex
 

Mikeopsycho

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 6, 2014
Messages
738
I say foam. Maybe not the tank, unless properly prepped, but foam everywhere else. Some boats rely on the foam for strength, but I don't know about your particular boat. I can't see the foam making any noticeable difference re floatation under normal use, but what do I know?
 
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